Please Help....
#1 What is the brake fluid capacity on this; 2008 XJ8L? Fluid is gettin nasty, so it's time. Do y'all approve of using Brembo DOT 5.1 fluid?
#2 I'll be telling a story here tomorrow. *That I could really use some help with, please? This cars is running way to rich(eye watering, knock ya out' kinda HC.stinky)since the weather has finally chilled here in the desert. It has went WackO. I'm thinking about parking it until it's resolved. * I know lean is bad, but running rich, is gonna kill it. In the message center last week it stated; 16.5mpg., today it says 14.2mpg. Pipes aren't pretty, either. I'll be using my budget Carsoft scan tool, to fill y'all in. Later on tonite, I'll be flushing brake system. If the 5.1 fluid is acceptable an I find out the capacity. I called the dealership early this morning. They said, they'd call me back, but not. I figure, they don't know either. "It's hard to find any service information on this car." (Don't !) I've purchased info from TOPIX, think thats the authentic/approved Jag source? Twice,(2) they sent me information for a car I didn't have, none of the material I pd. for was relevant, pictures didn't even match.
NOTED: I still haven't found any, workshop/maintenance/service manual anywhere, for this car. Being a mechanical guy, I'm having issues w/all this. Thank U, for your time. ST.

 

Welcome to forum!

For #1 (Brake fluid)

Mine's a 2007, but I checked 2008 handbook online - its the same: "Use brake fluid to specification Shell DOT4 ESL or a low viscosity DOT4 brake fluid that meets ISO 4925 class 6 requirements."

I found out that ISO 4925 Class 6 viscosity is a viscosity requirement (i.e. max 750 mm2/s at -40F)

Bosch ESI6 exceeds all of the factory requirements for viscosity and according to online data sheets has slightly higher wet & dry boiling points than Shell DOT4 ESL.
Motul 5.1 doesn't meet the viscosity requirement (820 vs 750) but its darned close. It has slightly better wet boiling point than everything I looked at.

I used Bosch ESI6, but Motul 5.1 would certainly be OK.

Capacity? About 1.5 quarts I think for a full flush.

Instructions are on this forum in the how to section https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enance-246865/

#2 Running rich - no clue - maybe a separate post with a different title to get the right people?

I also noticed your comment in the flushing hydraulic top post. This forum has a "helpful feature" of showing what it thinks are related posts. It appended the flushing hydraulics for the soft top post yo yours - oops!!

HTH, Dave

 

Here is a link to the X350 Workshop Manual:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xl1qtf4hwt...anual.pdf?dl=0

 

Pressure bleeder, or the old two person bleeding process works well.
Found out that my mittyvac, vacuum bleeder, wouldn't work.

 

Running rich on what initially sounds to be all cylinders could be a MAF sensor screwing up the readings, especially if the air temp is now dropping due to seasonal change.
ECM sounds like it is just reading from an inappropriate portion of the mapping table.
Your MAF might not be faulty..... could just be dirty and reading poorly (MAF sensor cleaner in a can should sort that out), or you could have an air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body that is confusing the situation (loose clamp or split in accordion intake pipe), although that "unmetered" additional air would possibly steer the ECM to leaning out the mix.
Engine temp gauges also provide feedback to ECU that go into the ECU's consideration of whether the engine requires enrichment (cold starts), but if your engine temp gauge is working OK then hopefully that might eliminate a temp sensor issue.
Other possible causes might be abnormally high fuel rail pressure, or a very restricted air intake filter (nothing nested in the intake I hope) or a MAP sensor in the intake manifold.

Open your air filter box and check filter is good and pipes are clear fore and aft. If necessary remove filter and start car to see if there is a change in exhaust behavior.
Next remove check and clean your MAF sensor in the intake pipe. Take the opportunity to check the intake pipe for any defects that might allow air to enter. Check your intake hose is properly fitted to throttle body and the clamps are secured normally.
Remove and clean your MAP sensor as a final step. A dirty throttle body will normally upset idle fueling, but once it is opening up under driving conditions the effects seen at idle are usually negated.

Beyond those simple checks/cleans, if you are still having the issue and it is not a temperature sensor showing a gauge reading issue, then you are going to have to start some more in-depth checks of misfire codes (in case it is being narrowed down to just one or two cylinders which might indicate a leaking injector or two), checking fuel rail pressure etc.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

I found the same thing Wingrider. Did the old fashioned two man bleeder routine. Worked fine.
John

 

Purchased a Schwaben Power Flusher at ECS a long time ago. Like to flush a quart and a half through the passenger rear to start. That flushes the ABS pump, master cylinder, and lines to that wheel. Then another quart and a half for remaining three wheels.
Easy to use, got a catch can to catch old fluid. Snaps on bleeder valve. Install the master cylinder cap, pressure up, open wheel cylinder bleeder. Once clean fluid come out close bleeder and move to next wheel. If bleeders are easy to get to it takes 20 minutes.
If you have to pull wheels to get to bleeders it is three hours. At least for me.
Use NAPA DOT 4 in all cars. Change every three years or so. Always darker.

 

I use safety wire (though even duct tape will do it) to tie a drain bottle above the caliper and make sure it is fed from the top of the bottle. A plastic soda bottle with the tube fed through a hole cut in the cap works. The bleeder is thus kept submerged in fluid during the entire process and you can close the bleeder without a second person. Having 2 people is definitely faster.

 

Did mine this week as there were bottles of Pentosin DOT 4 on clearance at Autozone for $9.99. One man bottle method as Scooterforever posted. Used a 16oz Gatorade bottle with two holes drilled in cap. 1 for the bleeder hose and a smaller one to let air escape. opened reservoir cap filled with clean fluid. Tied bottle to suspension on car over bleeder. Bottle filled with 1/4 clean fluid over hose. Open valve and slowly pump brakes 3 times and close valve. Make sure reservoir is kept full. Repeat until clean fluid then repeat on remaining wheels. Doesn't take that long and a inexpensive way to get it done.

 

The inexpensive check valve "one man brake bleeders" work pretty well and are very easy to use. The check valves tend to gum up over time, but they're cheap enough to replace as needed:

I haven't used this brand specifically, but the ones I have were just as inexpensive:








Also, the pump-up pressure bleeders work well. If I recall correctly, the BMW reservoir adapters also fit the X350/X358. The bleeder I have came from Bav Auto (now extinct), but it was probably made by a company like Mityvac, Motive, Schwaben, etc.

BTW, my recollection is that Jaguar specifies DOT 4 in the normally-aspirated cars and Super DOT 4 (higher boiling point) in the supercharged cars.

Cheers,

Don

 

Unless you have some way of cycling the ABS while bleeding the brakes you are NOT bleeding the ABS!
Fluid is trapped at high pressure in the ABS system and the ABS valves must be cycled to pump this old fluid out.

I never do this but I think it is a worthwhile thing to do as it will be a complete brake flush then.
.
.
.

 

That is true on many vehicles, but it doesn't seem to be the case on the X350, at least according to the Workshop Manual. I'm attaching the relevant sections. According to the manual, the only additional action that may be required is a procedure to ensure the rear brake calipers with integral emergency brake mechanisms are fully bled.

However, if you have a scan tool capable of commanding the ABS pump to run and to exercise the individual valves in the ABS modulator, it definitely won't hurt to do so and may result in a more complete fluid flush.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you for your input.
I've read your post on; Workshop Manual. Went to drop box and read more. The info. here is limited to specific VIN. #'s. I don't know if thats the issue I'm encountering or what. TOPIX(the authorized Jaguar info. center)sent me two wrong manuals, even after giving them my VIN. # twice. I got discouraged, then wondered what I had got myself into. I just associated the inability to obtain any info. on this 08' XJ8, was due to FORD's departure. Don't know what TOPIX was sending me, my engine wasn't even listed in the "Workshop Manual", that they insisted was for my car. My VIN. six characters from the end are; H20806.
I was at a loss, an confused. I just wanted to learn about issues, and repair what I could w/o bothering anyone. I tried using this forum previously in the past. NOTED: I'm not a sensitive person, but I felt as though I was being criticized for being a GM. guy. I was just looking anywhere I could for related info.. This unit is hard to wrap your head around(at least it is for me)an adapting to overcome is a challenge. Never had to trust in social info. for something I bought that needed repair. In the past, I purchased an old BMW. It was way expensive too, but one could buy various info. manuals.

 

So far, I'm overwhelmed at all the responses I've received so far.
On this issue; flushing brake fluid. I find yours applicable. I was looking to find out the capacity of fluid. It was answered. I was lost as far as flushing the old fluid. So, in reading your instruction was most informative. Except, flushing the old out. I know to flush furthest line from master first. My question is; when I'm flushing w/new fluid, until it runs clear, all the new(now contaminated/dirty)fluid is thrown out. I wanted/already purchased two quarts of Brembo 5.1 fluid(due to higher quality)so I will need a lot more to completely flush this brake system? Am I understanding this correctly? I knew this procedure would take more than the capacity of fluid, to flush system. This 5.1 fluid states; "to be efficient, you just can't add it to existing DOT 4 fluid to obtain its specified optimal performance/ability". From what you're saying I'm going to need approximately 1 gallon(of this type of fluid)to flush system properly. Is this correct?
Also, stated in replies to my post. I was told a vacuum bleeder wouldn't work. Is this correct?
Good help is hard to get, especially when all my friends have died off. I'll have to adapt. Looks like I've wasted $'s on this vacuum bleeder tool.
I thank you, for your assistance.

 

How to cycle the ABS, to achieve a clean system? Flushing w/o doing this seems inadequate, wouldn't the new fluid get contaminated?

 

It can be done with a bi-directional scan tool that can command the ABS pump to run and the various modulator valves to open and close. An old school method is to replace the fluid conventionally, then find a gravel road and make several "panic" stops to force the ABS system to engage repeatedly. Then bleed the system again. But as I mentioned before, the workshop manual does not call for ABS operation during the fluid replacement.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey Don I use to do that too!!
I never was sure if the ABS was bled that way or not but I spent plenty of time sliding around on dirt roads trying to do it for sure.

How bad does your fluid look? These are just street cars so DOT 4 will be fine and will not require all the flushing to swap over to 5.1. I know you know this but BE SURE your using 5.1 and NOT DOT 5 Silicone fluid!
.
.
.