Hey all, after many searches re: 'my title above' turned up MANY great articles on bushing replacement, parts suppliers etc. ( thank god for these forums) I haven't been able to find any that give step by step instructions on Remove/Replace the Upper C/A's. I've already obtained the parts, along with Front Sway bar bushings. Thinking of tackling this weekend.
Took a cursory look and doesn't appear too difficult, but would feel more warm n fuzzy if someone here performed the task and had some tips !
I'm assuming I have to drop the Airshocks down? to withdraw the Upper bolts (thru the tower). Any battery disconnect involved ? Or just undo the air lines and unbolt?
ANY and all advice appreciated..as always

Geo G

 

Forgot to mention.. If anyone has the Torques specs on all related bolts..
much appreciated.. GG

 

You do not have to unbolt or remove the front shocks to replace the control arms. I did mine about 4 months ago. The front sway bar bushings are not hard if you have another person helping you. My car was on my lift, had my son underneath holding the socket on the bolts as I tightened the bushing holding straps from above with long extensions. As I remember, there was a cross bar above the sway bar that had to be taken out first, and you don't want to confuse the four bolts holding the cross bar with the four bolts holding the bushing straps. They are slightly different threads.

 

For the tips on the sway bar .. I did the upper control A's yesterday.. Just curious, how the heck did you withdraw the bolts from the Shock tower ( control arm bolts that is) without hitting the Side of the Air shock ? Looked about an inch clearance..
Anyhoo.. my new issue is.. after bleeding the air from removing the shock, my Air compressor's not kickin in to refill the shocks.. ugh. Was working fine just prior to the work...

 

Did you do that work (extending the suspensions) with the battery connected (or compressor relay/fuse on)?
You may have to drive the car (slowly) for some time to have the compressor kick-in

 

I don't remember the specifics, but I did not loosen the front shocks at all. The bolts slid out and it wasn't an issue with my control arm replacement.

 

Replaced the drivers side upper a arm yesterday, & other than cutting the special bolts,& replacing them with #8 or better bolts, nuts inside wheel well. The air shock MUST come out. The other a arm's ball joint is not as bad, so will order new air shocks, then replace the passenger side air shock and arm at the same time. Both tie rod ends were replaced as well, with drivers a arm. So when new air shocks arrive & installed, both a arms, both the tie rods ends, new front tires with a front end alignment should put things right up front. Whats the best after market air shock for the cash??? Always in short supply for me.

 

Hey there Wing... have you ordered the new Airshocks yet? I'm not in the market (yet)
but, I believe consensus is the Arnott replacements are the best replacement. , If I'm not mistaken, I thought I heard they have lifetime warranty. Maybe some others can chime in OR you'll be able to make your best decision after researching.
Best, GG

 

Hey there Wing,
Did you purchase your new Air shocks yet? If not, I believe general consensus is that the Arnott replacement is better quality than OEM. AND, I think I read or heard they may have a lifetime warranty? I'm not in the market ( yet ) for these.. so maybe someone with more experience can chime in OR you'll make your best choice after online research..


Best, GG

 

Installed a set of AS2888's, both a arms, tie rod ends, & sway bar links. Tires are next, best options as far as quality, & price goes, anyone?

 

Wing,
Funny, I just two minutes ago left an opinion on my tires on another thread ( Steering shimmy - Dr J).
I've been SUPER happy with these Michelin Primacy's I've been running for almost 40k mi. Instantly made my VDP quieter, nice smooth ride but more importantly - I've got probably 40% tread left .. Very even wear on all 4..
Performed well in ALL kinds of weather, they take a beating too unlike Conti's 'balloons' ! I think they were around $200/ea. plus mount/bal. AND Nitrogen not air. Supposedly gets you 30+% longer life AND I never lose pressure in the cold. I think I was $900 all in at Costco.
Note: I've always rotated them at 7,500/mi. and had alignments around every 12k.
That's my 2 cents.. Tires are 'personal' preferences tho'.. See what others think that have our models and Happy hunting !


Geo G

 

Went with best bang for the buck on the premium type tires.Pirelli PEZERO NERO ALL SEASON RADIAL'S; $830.53 with $140 rebate, making $690.53 4 tires, with alignment on all 4 wheels out the door.Noticed the rubber boots on the rear suspension parts, were in BAD shape. Joints must still all be good, as the alignment went fine. Will see if the boots for front upper arms that did not get used with the new a arms, fit the rears, if they are not shot. If so drop links are not too pricey for the 2004 Lincoln LS, & the tie rods should just about wrap it up. Just one final check, these parts for the Lincoln LS, will fit the 04 Jag XJ8?

 

Hi

I need to replace mine but I still think that removing the air shocks are not necessary but at the same time I keep thinking about those control arm bolts in not getting out because not enough room.
How come you don't remember the specifics about replacing the front upper control arms without removing the air shocks. It is not a piece a cake job. I am pretty sure that your son must of remembered something since He helped you do it. Can you ask him?

 

Did you attach back the connectors to the air shocks? maybe you forgot.

 

Car may still be in the jacking mode, driving it slowly should start the compressor.
As far as removing the upper a arms without removing the shock first, good luck Its just not happening.
You have no room to reverse the bolts if you do cut them.
Did i mention that they are not inexpensive????

 

Hi
I need to replace mine but I still think that removing the air shocks are not necessary but at the same time I keep thinking about those control arm bolts in not getting out because not enough room.

How come you don't remember the specifics about replacing the front upper control arms without removing the air shocks. It is not a piece a cake job. I am pretty sure that your son must of remembered something since He helped you do it. Can you ask him?

 

Thank you for your reply I really appreciate it.

I was asking actually forum member: NDW because He was the one who stated that He did not remove the air shocks in response to another forum member: GemJag about that.

This was the reply from NDW to GemJag:

---- You do not have to unbolt or remove the front shocks to replace the control arms. I did mine about 4 months ago. The front sway bar bushings are not hard if you have another person helping you. My car was on my lift, had my son underneath holding the socket on the bolts as I tightened the bushing holding straps from above with long extensions. As I remember, there was a cross bar above the sway bar that had to be taken out first, and you don't want to confuse the four bolts holding the cross bar with the four bolts holding the bushing straps. They are slightly different threads.----

I don't specifically understand this part :

-- I tightened the bushing holding straps from above with long extensions ---

and:

--- there was a cross bar above the sway bar that had to be taken out first, and you don't want to confuse the four bolts holding the cross bar with the four bolts holding the bushing straps ---

I don't think that procedure pertains to the removal of the front upper XJ8 control arms maybe that is related to another Jaguar.

 

Believe we may be discussing two different parts.

 

Hi rf69,

You are inquiring about posts that were made more than three years ago, so if NDW could not remember the details of replacing his upper control arms then, what are the chances he or his son will remember more details now?

I have replaced the front upper control arms on several X350s and X358s and I can't recall a single car on which the control arm bolts could have been withdrawn without removing the air spring/damper units. I think your only chance of replacing the upper control arms without removing the shocks is if you have converted your air suspension to conventional coil spring units and the springs are sufficiently narrower than the original air units.

But what's the big deal? The air spring/dampers are fairly easy to remove. Just disconnect the air hose and ECATS electrical connector, disconnect the anti-sway bar link, remove the lower shock bolt, remove three of the four nuts that secure the air spring to the suspension tower and loosen but do not remove the fourth nut, step on the lower control arm to push it downward and lift the bottom of the shock over the arm, then while holding the air spring/damper with one hand, reach up with the other and remove the remaining nut, then lower the unit out of the car.

Cheers,

Don

 

The only fly in the ointment is the lower shock 60 torx bolt.
The ones on my 04 were no problem getting out, a southern car.
The 07's were rusted & so badly seized they required the arm to be removed.
Half its life in Ohio, with salt in the winter.
A lot of its fasteners need soaking, as well as heat to remove.