I'm haveing the same problem...............error code P0727? I checked the EGR and it was OK. I'm replacing the Crank Sensor tomorrow.......any other suggestions anyone? Thanks!

 

Sometimes P0727 isn't much help on these cars. What that means is it saw no engine speed while it saw road speed. Meaning any stall will usually set P0727. If you have P1775, that only means the TCM sent a request to the ECM to turn on the Check Engine light and alert the driver.

However, a crank sensor failure causing a stall can be the culprit.

Good luck!

 

had the same problem, was leave a hamburger joint from the drive up window, all of a sudden check engine i think came (cant remeber exactly) and the tranny default came on, engine died, coasted to a stop , heart skip a beat there, was way far from home, ok, let it set for awhile check a few things ,, got a drink scratch man head, then started right back up, drove home no lites no nothing........ok, so the only thing i did the next day after getting home was take egr valve back out,(installed a new onebut) i didnt have the right stuff to clean the 2 holes the egr valve covers,,bought a round bristle bottle washer type brush the get deep down into holes, sprayed all the gunk with throttle body cleaner and brushed the heck out of the holes, also felt like there was a big wad of stuff, final brush broke thru. been running like Top since, so the story here is clean the dang holes as far inside as you can get.

geno
1995 xj6 185k on her

 

Is there a gasket under the EGR valve. I plan to take mine of an clean it but don't want to start without neo.g able to finish.

 

Yes, there is a gasket. P/N C2A1231

Cheers,

 

Ok so i had the same exact problem with a 96 xj6. I changed the egr valve, nothing. I changed the Idle air control valve, nothing. I changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF and nothing. I changed the TB but kept the original Throttle position sensor, and still nothing. So i got a new TPS and nothin! It wasnt until Brutal suggested that after installing the new tps i need to turn the mechanical screw that controls the air gap of the butterfly in the TB. Presto! Car is running great! so i would change the tps and goto the dealer and get an engine setup done after. Its worth every penny!

 

I was making a right turn after stopping and car stalled; 1st time in over 305K miles. I had my scanner, so I pulled over after restarting and checked codes. Same codes, P0420, P0430 (catalyst faults), P0727 and P1775, with check engine and transmission fault lights lit up. I drove a little further and checked codes, but haven't done anything yet. I just changed the alternator, but no other work recently. How do I find out if I need to replace EGR or crank sensor, or anything else?

 

Go back up to post #4. As mentioned your stall substantiates the P0727 and P1775. But what caused the stall?...........anybody's guess. That Crank Sensor is definitely suspect, though.

Cheers,

 

I drove home and it was running higher rpm on freeway than I thought it normally does; 3500 rpm at about 68 mph, vs 2500 rpm at 75+ mph normally. It didn't seem to shift to overdrive, but I may be wrong. When parking at home, it didn't quite go into park right and rolled back a little. Drove again after checking oil (adding 2 qts) and trans. fluid, which seemed normal color/clarity and was full. Local dealer said Jag doesn't sell EGR for this anymore and they don't even show a crankshaft sensor for my model. Seemed to run ok, but codes and lights still show. Dealer thought airflow sensor/meter in intake might be clogged or failed.

 

Where is crank sensor? I may have to buy EGR online. Any reliable sources?

 

Forget the EGR, nothing you've said so far in anyway relates to that. Sounds more like trans trouble coming on. The P0420/30 are catalyst efficiency faults. At this mileage I'm sure the cats are dead, so I'm not surprised.

I don't know where your dealer is coming from, the Crank Sensor is LHE1640AA. I just installed one a couple weeks ago. Here's a page that shows you where it's located, item #11.

Good luck!

 

My harmonic balancer just separated after only 320,000 miles. Imagine that?! I removed it and sent it to Damper Dudes, got it back in 3 days from when I shipped it and reinstalled it today. I'm going to post some pics I took of the tool I made to help me torque the monster bolt back on, but after I got it finished, the 4 fault codes in this post came up again. Last time, I cancelled the codes after replacing the air filter and it worked fine since, with no other work. My Crank Position Sensor, this time was very dirty from road crud and made worse by small oil leak I'm trying to find. I cleaned it off somewhat, but may not have cleaned it enough and that may be why the codes came up again. I just cancelled the codes, so let's see it they come up again when I drive home now. Otherwise, I may have to replace this sensor or clean it better. I'm not sure how it works and I didn't clean it really well, so it may need a little more thorough cleaning than I gave it.

 

xjrguy I think that diagram is so helpful. Thanks. From what publication did it originate and where can I find a copy?

 

I have this publication in PAPER as Jaguar issued in 1994.
The publication is TECHNICAL GUIDE JJM 10 15 12/50
XJ6 & XJ12 1995 Model Year Technical Introduction.

I also downloaded it from Jaguar (on 10/17/2000 @7:51AM) as a .pdf and I am pretty sure that I or someone else uploaded it to the large file area.

The Publication is out there on the internet for you to download.

bob gauff

 

Here is the link to the 1995 Tech Update Book.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/y0wcej...jm10151250.pdf

Cheers,

 

After gathering the fault codes and examining the performance of my 1996 Jaguar stalling as it decelerates into 1st gear...before I change the CPS (crank position sensor) I am suspect that the transmission is faulting since it is going into "Limp" mode after stalling...as well, the car seems to run effortlessly after the transmission has decelerated several times into 1st gear....my first step is to change the transmission fluid and filter. The examination of the used tranny fluid will possibly shed light onto this situation and by increasing the viscosity of the fluid, first gear may lubricate better eliminating the problem, at least for a while, until transmission problems progress. I figure the transmission is not warming up and lubricating itself. The problem seems worse as temperature drops below 60 degrees F. My 1996 van den plas has 137000 miles on it and certainly, that lubrication needs to be changed anyway and it may very well save me the expense of a new CPS, but, not only that, If there is no problem with the existing CPS, it is probably a better quality than an aftermarket replacement. I will update my results on this thread when I have completed this process....By the Way, what is the best fluid to use in this transmission? Does anyone know the answer to this question?