Thanks Bob. I gather from what you say that each door has one of these plastic assays. And it is not just the drivers door that causes the problem. Is there a web site that covers removing the door panels?

Thanks again, Bob

 

The door lock actuators are little electric motors with gears and rods in a plastic case bolted to the latch assy. They are removable but I don't know if they are sold separately for all latches. I used to save the latches and transfer good parts to build a good one from several faulty ones.

Jaguar went from heavy coil wound solenoids in the mid 1980s to the motorized actuators. (Series III XJ sedans and XJ-S)

bob gauff

 

Sounds like another situation where Jag went to something cute instead of something reliable. My concern is having the thing fail and essentially screw up and loose a perfectly good car due to some failure of a plastic part.

Would spraying some CRC Silicone down along the pull knob help prevent a failure?

Thanks Bob

 

Unable to open the driver's door of my 2004 Jaguar X-Type. The door handle on the inside is extended in an outward locked position. The door will not open with the Fob or while standing outside of the car using the key. The other doors are working well. Although, the other repair issues have been minor and inexpensive, owning a jag has lost it's zeal with me. This car has given me more problems in 3 months than both of my Mercedes Benz combined over the past 20 years.


Running out of patience,
mercedesvsjaguar

 

Had car 3 days, back to shop. hear cycles 5 times no unlock so ,must remove fender to get door off to get to panel to see what's wrong. .ste we having fun yet?

 

Been working on breaking down on how the locking system works electrically vs.mechanically on a different post . Since you are able to hear the Driver Door Lock Actuator cycle you know the motor works but the SLCM or switches are wacko for whatever reason . Using just the motor by removing the battery positive cable first and applying power to the point ( the blue wire in the colored print ) in the Driver Door Unlock Relay you my get the motor to move in the unlock direction only and then remove power . There is a possibility that just a 9 volt battery may be enough to do it or a battery charger .

To locate that point on the relay for the correct wire pull the relay then apply key on power to find the power source leg on the socket mount , the point will be the opposite physically from the power source leg

This could not work but it's worth a try . If it doesn't it could be mechanically jammed from getting to the unlock position as the lock actuator's unlock switch comes in agreement with the SLCM's command .

IMPORTANT :

Do not put power to the ground seeking leg of the pulling controlling coil back to the SLCM . This should be identified as the smaller 2 of 4 post on the relay in hand . The no - no wire is the Purple /Light Green in the actual car . The pulling control wire will limit the current by the resistance in the coil preventing to much current from damaging the inside the SLCM's switch .

Verifying the correct wire physical location

The relay location in the pic is the rear position . The mount / socket can be removed by pulling up for better access . Wire colors don't match factory wiring schematic . Working and ringing out with a meter The slate /blue wire on position 3 in the factory schematic is actually slate / yellow in the car and is hard to discern the color .