Rough and Rich!!!
#1
Rough and Rich!!!
Hi Fellow Jaguar fans.
I drive a nice XJ6, X300 early 1995, roughly 150.000 km. It has allways been well tended by previous owners and myself since I bought it 4 years ago.
In short it is my summer drive, and I try too use it frequently during this period.
I have had no major problems with it so far. And the driveline has been working flawlessly.
After a fill up at the gas station 10 Days ago, where I drove home with the gas cap off (stupid). I have had some problems.
Idle is rough first minut but will smooth out, it will start but only after prolonged cranking.
Heavy gasoline smell in exhast, which seams humid with black droplets of water or unburnt fuel in it.
Fuel consumation is through the roof.
Spark plugs black and sooty, but will spark when grounded to the block.
Engine light is not on.
First I changed the Crank position sensor, with no result.
OBD read MAF sensor problems, but local jaguar dealer says, that problems with the MAF would turn on Engine light, and shift to limp home mode?
Tried testing the MAF with back probing, but couldnt get it to work,
At least I saw that 11,88 volt going to the MAF.
Coolant temp sensor, seems to change resistens with temp going up and down.
Fuel pressure regulator, is not leaking gas the diaphram ( tested with vacum hose off for 10 min), return to tank from FPR seeams adequate.
Fuel is squirting when I loosen the hose to the fuel rail.
Any help will greated with much appriciation, as I am running out og thoughts here.
Best regards
Christian in Sweden.
I drive a nice XJ6, X300 early 1995, roughly 150.000 km. It has allways been well tended by previous owners and myself since I bought it 4 years ago.
In short it is my summer drive, and I try too use it frequently during this period.
I have had no major problems with it so far. And the driveline has been working flawlessly.
After a fill up at the gas station 10 Days ago, where I drove home with the gas cap off (stupid). I have had some problems.
Idle is rough first minut but will smooth out, it will start but only after prolonged cranking.
Heavy gasoline smell in exhast, which seams humid with black droplets of water or unburnt fuel in it.
Fuel consumation is through the roof.
Spark plugs black and sooty, but will spark when grounded to the block.
Engine light is not on.
First I changed the Crank position sensor, with no result.
OBD read MAF sensor problems, but local jaguar dealer says, that problems with the MAF would turn on Engine light, and shift to limp home mode?
Tried testing the MAF with back probing, but couldnt get it to work,
At least I saw that 11,88 volt going to the MAF.
Coolant temp sensor, seems to change resistens with temp going up and down.
Fuel pressure regulator, is not leaking gas the diaphram ( tested with vacum hose off for 10 min), return to tank from FPR seeams adequate.
Fuel is squirting when I loosen the hose to the fuel rail.
Any help will greated with much appriciation, as I am running out og thoughts here.
Best regards
Christian in Sweden.
#2
Thoughts:
1) The cap off is likely unrelated to the problems
2) What do you mean by "OBD read MAF sensor problems"? Is it a code, or no reading for that parameter?
3) Engine lamp burned out?
4) What are the STFT and LTFT readings. Note, the LTFT CAN give funny results on these cars/
5) Have you tried a "hard boot"?
6) What type of OBD reader do you have? Can you trend graph parameters?
Good luck!
1) The cap off is likely unrelated to the problems
2) What do you mean by "OBD read MAF sensor problems"? Is it a code, or no reading for that parameter?
3) Engine lamp burned out?
4) What are the STFT and LTFT readings. Note, the LTFT CAN give funny results on these cars/
5) Have you tried a "hard boot"?
6) What type of OBD reader do you have? Can you trend graph parameters?
Good luck!
#3
Hi Thank you for replying.
2) I got P0102, low input from MAF.
3) It is there with ignition turned to step one but lights go out with Engine on.
4) My OBD is a simple being and cannot read Fuel trim.
5) I Think soo, but could be Worth trying again.
6) A very simple dont Think graph are possible.
2) I got P0102, low input from MAF.
3) It is there with ignition turned to step one but lights go out with Engine on.
4) My OBD is a simple being and cannot read Fuel trim.
5) I Think soo, but could be Worth trying again.
6) A very simple dont Think graph are possible.
#4
#5
Hi Thank you for replying
It was not wet at the time, tops 15 km ( unsure in miles) since refuelling.
Tested backprobing the MAF under idle at 800 rpm, with ground to the 3 rd pin and + to the 2nd pin.
with multi meter at 20 Vdc, it says 0,1 volt and at higher idle max 0,5 volt.
Could this be the low sensor output from the MAF, the fault code is indicating or just me who doesn´t know how to measure output from MAF..
Best regards
Christian
It was not wet at the time, tops 15 km ( unsure in miles) since refuelling.
Tested backprobing the MAF under idle at 800 rpm, with ground to the 3 rd pin and + to the 2nd pin.
with multi meter at 20 Vdc, it says 0,1 volt and at higher idle max 0,5 volt.
Could this be the low sensor output from the MAF, the fault code is indicating or just me who doesn´t know how to measure output from MAF..
Best regards
Christian
#6
Christian:
If you have a code from the MAF, you almost surely have a bad MAF or the wiring to it. Can your reader read current data? Even the free and $10.00 variety scanners can graph data parameters. If you post which interface you use (Chinese ELM clone?), then we can make suggestions for a software. Several come with 30 day free use.
Where I am going is that you can read the data from the MAF and get an idea if it is correct.
I do not have a running X-300 right now, so I can't check your voltages, but they sure seem low to me.
If you have a code from the MAF, you almost surely have a bad MAF or the wiring to it. Can your reader read current data? Even the free and $10.00 variety scanners can graph data parameters. If you post which interface you use (Chinese ELM clone?), then we can make suggestions for a software. Several come with 30 day free use.
Where I am going is that you can read the data from the MAF and get an idea if it is correct.
I do not have a running X-300 right now, so I can't check your voltages, but they sure seem low to me.
#7
Hi
This is the one.
Felkodsläsare - OBDII OBD2 EOBD - Biltema
Going to bed now, Will be back in the morning.
Best regards
Christian
This is the one.
Felkodsläsare - OBDII OBD2 EOBD - Biltema
Going to bed now, Will be back in the morning.
Best regards
Christian
Trending Topics
#8
I THINK this is in Swedish!
OBD2 Bluetooth
With this scnner (less than $20.00 if purchased in US) and some inexpensive or free to try software, you can trend chart your data and tell what is going on.
I suspect, though, you have a bad MAF sensor.
OBD2 Bluetooth
With this scnner (less than $20.00 if purchased in US) and some inexpensive or free to try software, you can trend chart your data and tell what is going on.
I suspect, though, you have a bad MAF sensor.
#9
Hi
You are quite right it is Swedish :=)
I called my local Electronics store and they have this in stock.
OBD-2-adapter ELM 327 för iPhone > OBD-2 | Kjell.com
Will try and pick it up today and post graphs as soon as possible.
I am very gratefull for your help, didn´t know these things existed:=)
Best regards
Christian
You are quite right it is Swedish :=)
I called my local Electronics store and they have this in stock.
OBD-2-adapter ELM 327 för iPhone > OBD-2 | Kjell.com
Will try and pick it up today and post graphs as soon as possible.
I am very gratefull for your help, didn´t know these things existed:=)
Best regards
Christian
#10
OK, now let me figure out which of the less costly software packages I used that worked well. There are a number out there.
I see that you have the ELM for WiFi. Do you use an Iphone or Ipad? If you are going to use it with your computer, what operating system ?
I see that you have the ELM for WiFi. Do you use an Iphone or Ipad? If you are going to use it with your computer, what operating system ?
Last edited by sparkenzap; 09-16-2015 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Checked features of ELM unit purchased
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Papelione (09-16-2015)
#12
#13
Well, something is wrong with the numbers, and yoiu have two banls of fuel trim and both are important, but either way, if you are scanning the correct MAF signal, then the MAF or the wiring from it to the ECU is obviously faulty. That also matches your symptoms, so I would say a new MAF is a good bet.
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MountainMan (09-25-2015)
#14
Hi
Reset the fault codes, and took a new drive.
Still hesitating to start, but will after a minute idle nicely at 800 rpm.
Behaves quite normal under drive, maybe a bit slow speeder response.
But fuel usage seams more reasonebly now.
Still throws the P0102 code though.
Have ordered a second hand one from UK.
Report when mounted and tested.
Have a nice weekend.
Christian
Reset the fault codes, and took a new drive.
Still hesitating to start, but will after a minute idle nicely at 800 rpm.
Behaves quite normal under drive, maybe a bit slow speeder response.
But fuel usage seams more reasonebly now.
Still throws the P0102 code though.
Have ordered a second hand one from UK.
Report when mounted and tested.
Have a nice weekend.
Christian
#15
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Christian,
Hopefully the replacement MAFS will correct your issues, but if after replacing the MAFS you still have the long cranking to start, suspect the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP). The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses the CMP signal only at startup to identify cylinder 1 TDC on the compression stroke, usually within one full revolution of the crank. If the CMP is not providing a good signal, the ECM will then refer to the Crank Position Sensor (CKPS) signal, but it can take 30 seconds or more of trial and error before the ECM determines the correct ignition timing to start the engine.
Cheers,
Don
Hopefully the replacement MAFS will correct your issues, but if after replacing the MAFS you still have the long cranking to start, suspect the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP). The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses the CMP signal only at startup to identify cylinder 1 TDC on the compression stroke, usually within one full revolution of the crank. If the CMP is not providing a good signal, the ECM will then refer to the Crank Position Sensor (CKPS) signal, but it can take 30 seconds or more of trial and error before the ECM determines the correct ignition timing to start the engine.
Cheers,
Don
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MountainMan (09-25-2015)
#16
Hi
Good news.
Second hand MAF arrived today, and the cat is back.
MAF is signaling again and drive seams normal again.
Will take the car to work tomorrow for more testing.
Thank you for responding.
Allways impressed that we can communicate in this way, half across the world.
Below is a picture of my xj6, ready for autum.
Best regards
Christian
Thx, and best regards from Sweden.
Good news.
Second hand MAF arrived today, and the cat is back.
MAF is signaling again and drive seams normal again.
Will take the car to work tomorrow for more testing.
Thank you for responding.
Allways impressed that we can communicate in this way, half across the world.
Below is a picture of my xj6, ready for autum.
Best regards
Christian
Thx, and best regards from Sweden.
The following 3 users liked this post by Papelione:
#17
The following 2 users liked this post by sparkenzap:
Don B (09-21-2015),
MountainMan (09-25-2015)
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