Ok as you know going by the rampage of replys I received wrt the front oil leak post, I will have to remove the front oil seal on the crankshaft and replace it.
The difficult part is to remove the crank damper, there is a special tool which I don't intend to purchase. Prehaps people have fabricated it, and I would like to take a look at any photos of a home made version.
The proper too looks like
Front Pulley Lock - Engine Tools - 303-191
best
Peter

 

I use a strap wrench- It COULD loosen the rubber damper beween the hub and the pulley (if it has one, I don't remember) but it works for me.

 

I just encountered this problem on my X300 and solved it with the NitroCat 1200-K 1/2" drive impact wrench, claiming 1295 ft-lbs of loosening torque. $170.00

You may be able to rig a breaking bar/cheater pipe to the floor and bump the starter motor to break it loose, as have many on the X300's....but all that did for me was raise the left front corner of the car a bit....repeatedly....until it snapped the drive tang of my breaking bar.

 

Peter,
If there is a dealer near you, try asking them to lend the proper tool to you, if you give them a deposit. The worst that can happen is they will say no. Buy the seal from them of course.

I am not sure if you have an XJR or XJ8. The pulley depth is different, so the tool requires a collar to accommodate the extra depth of the XJR pulley.

As sparkenzap mentioned, people use strap wrenches. I know the XJR has rubber in the damper.

 

I made a locking-removal tool, as you see on the pics. I had a spare pulley, so it helped me to get the right sizes. It is ugly but functional. The two inner screws lock the tool on the pulley, and the outer longer ones for pulling off the pulley after the crankshaft screw was removed. The pulling off tools are not on the pictures.

 

Gentlemen
I have a 1999 XJ8.. early AJ27 engine.... Does it have a rubber between the hub/pulley.. if not I can use the strap method.
I like the one XJRSTEVE made.. I think im going to give it a go.
Is that pulley an xjr or xj8 one?
best regards
Peter

 

Steve
How does the pulling off tool fit onto this setup on the 2 outer bolts?
any photos
peter

 

In the picture below, you can see two curved slots. I used a metal bar, bolts through those slots, and the nuts were placed in the gap between the pulleys. Cheap, dead simple, and very effective. A standard puller was purchased from a local parts store. Be careful, the bolts you need are metric. I do not know if the XJ8 pulley has the same slots, though.
[IMG][/IMG]

 

HHHMMM.. yes I will need to look at the pulley.. seems they differ slightly.
Which pullaey from mwhich model has the rubber insulator inbuilt in the pulley.? I hope mine doesnt (1999 xj8 Aj27) as then it reduces the options as to where bolts can fit... don't want to tear the rubber and ruin the pulley.
Will get back to you on this all.
I appreciate peoples ingenuity and help
Best regards
Peter

 

The XJR pulley has a rubber inset. I don't know about the XJ8 pulley

 

I hope this helps:

1. first pic is about the pull off tool
2. the back of the pulley, the distance between the two threaded hole is 74-75 mm.
3. you see that I have a modded crankshaft pulley screw that connects to the pull off tool's centre big screw.
4. how the pull off tool screwed to my crankshaft stopper tool. A closer look and you will see that it was bended by the pulling off force.
5. all of them in the pulley.

Don't forget, it is an XJR pulley, but I think the inner pulley diameters are the same with the xj8.

 

Steve
youre a genius buddy.. You need a patent for that for sure!!

I estimate the distance would be 7.3 cm from center to center ...one end of the measure looks to long in the picture so I adjust to 7.3, unless it is an optical thing.
I will fabricate this up soon...
Patent licensce number 000001...!!
Best regards
Peter

 

A couple points about the steel bar idea- as you can see the engine was out of the car. An impact gun removed the bolt easily and an everyday puller removed the pulley, BUT, I had the room to tighten the bolt and swing a big hammer to pop the pulley loose. If you're doing this in the car, that could be an issue.

As for the bar, the bolts have to be just the right length or adjusted with washers so that the bolt does not protrude through the nuts into the aft pulley.

 

Thanks, You made my day! Anyway, i think it is not so big thing.

It is better if you have playing area (7,3-7,5 cm), because then easier to screw the tool to the pulley, if the engine is in the car. Not easy to find the threaded hole with the screws, but that helps, that the xj8 has only the inner big pulley, so you have more place in front of the pulley.

Good luck for the work!

Steve

 

If it's any help the Jaguar manual says that if the special locking tool doesn't provide sufficient locking torque, their advised method is to remove the bottom rubber cover from the torque converter housing and slip a (flat) metal bar up between the converter and the flywheel, bracing the bar against a torque converter lug and leaving sufficient length of bar out of the housing aperture to stop the bar moving.
I use a flat strip of steel about 3mm (1/8 inch) thickness, 30mm (1 1/4 in) wide and 200mm (8 in) long, it's weight supported by a strip of wood between the exhausts.
The reaction torque to my breaker bar is taken in shear across the 30mm width of the bar, and the reaction to that is taken in shear across the torque converter lug and its fixing bolt. Both are well within any possible shear load that would cause damage.
I just did my X308 4.0 with a bolt that hadn't been touched for 13 years, using a 24mm socket and a 3/4 in t-bar with a 6 ft scaffold pole on the end, the bolt came off easily.
However....please someone tell me how to get the pulley/balancer off the crank - I tried a puller with a 1/2 in thick steel bar bolted across the pulley, a Franklyn tool from a set designed for the jaguar V8. When I tightened the puller centre bolt the steel bar bends and the pulley stays fixed to the crank....

 

Excellent idea about locking at the torque converter lug/bolt.

For removing the pulley, try this:

insert bolt, but leave a 3mm gap

apply pressure with puller

rap pulley with hammer going around in a circle

The vibration from the hammer blows will disturb the interface just enough to loosen the collet. The pulley will pop back against the bolt head. Remove bolt and collet. Remove pulley.

 

I used a home made pulley lock to loosen and took the bolt of crank shaft pulley out, but I can not pull the pulley out, what kind of tool do I need? please hepl!

 

Hi Thang,

There is a puller made for this, or you can try to use a harmonic balance puller. I have used both and the correct tool made the job waaaaay easier. Money well spent.

 

3 bolt pulley puller.. $30 for a good one.. best buy a brand name, the first one I had broke into 2 pieces under the pressure

 

Land Rover Jaguar Crankshaft Pulley Holder Tool | eBay