No, I don't, but if you refer to the double-locking, I don't think US spec-ed car had that feature.
One click is all there is.

 

I've noticed dead locking uses more juice, but if your car hasn't the feature, it isn't the issue...

 

So, just if someone could confirm I am doing the right interpretation:
This reading is as low as it goes, it alternates between a 0.03 and a 0.04 reading, with the meter set at 20mA.
Am I right it reads 30~40mA?

[/QUOTE]

 

Try it on the 200m scale.

 

I'm having the same problem. Just purchased a 2004 STR 😭

 

False alarm!! �� The battery cable was loose bcuz of a rusty bolt preventing complete tight down!

 

That's good for you, but unfortunately not the case for me, did not have opportunity to check any further.

Note: You posted in the wrong forum, for future problems, the S dedicated forum might get better answers for you.

 

Brutal is right... it should be at .030 or lower. .040 is a very small draw, but still a draw at that. Most of the modern Jaguars spec is for .030, some of the more current models are even lower. A faulty battery can definitely play with rest of the vehicle, specially your mind. You can have a battery show 13.0v, but only show 1/3 of the crank power to start the vehicle. Definitely check the battery, make sure its good, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. Once you determine its good, or get a known good battery, the move from there.


Other than battery being the issue, just from my experience I've come across the amp for the radio being a common problem, across various models. If you need a wiring diagram to know what each fuse is for when you pull it, I can help you with that, but Im sure its already on the forum somewhere.

 

Thanks, I knew where I was on this post. Best of luck with your battery issue.

 

Yeah, I did not rule out the battery, and I know the hidden problems a dying battery can trow.
But I was measuring this drain, so before changing it, I want to get that solved.

Anyway, I will be out to buy a new multi meter this morning (I am not fully trusting the one I have any more), and will then do 2 tests one more time;
- pulling all fuses and relays, and slowly put them back in,
- lock all doors + trunk while open, let it sleep and measure the voltage over each fuse.

I hope tonight I will know more.

UPDATE:
I isolated all after market equipment (HID's, Running lights, Parrot, 2xUSB chargers, interior foot-well lighting).
Then pulled all fuses and relays, cleaned them up (although it was all bright and shiny), and put them back in one by one, fuse-box after fuse-box.
Then checked wires and installation for all after market stuff, re-connected them again, had the engine running for a while, and switched on/off all circuits / systems.

Waiting half hour, and the multi-meter shows a healthy ~25mA, which is within the Jaguar spec., and the same as Brutal mentioned.
Unfortunately, I have no clue what I did, and I will keep a close eye on it the coming week.

I also decided I will buy a smart charger, to get the battery fully topped up, something which probably does not happen with the infrequent drives in this car. I will need to bring the battery up 12 floors, but it's doable once in a while.

Maybe, just maybe, this was a combination of stuff; a slightly higher discharge somewhere in the wiring, plus a slightly low battery which probably woke up the system at some point.

Thanks for all assistance, it helped a lot, I hope it is no more necessary.

 

I have had intermittent problems for years with the battery draining - sometimes - but not always. I've checked the trunk lights and the glove box light. I have put it on a meter several times. I had it at a Jag dealer for two weeks - they replaced the battery and didn't charge me anything (I think they were intrigued by the challenge). Lately I have been thinking that the broken potentiometers in the memory seats may be the problem. (Other threads address how to fix the potentiometers - the little plastic "clutch" breaks.) Has anyone resolved a battery drain issue after fixing/replacing their seat memory (or other memory) potentiometers?

 

A longshot... but if a diode in the generator says goodbye.. you will will get a short to ground over a part of the generator coil... if one doide goes, you would hardly notice.. becourse the generator control would increase the power in the rotor field... but if you checked the current on a scope.. it woud get dirty... if two diodes goes.. the coals in the generator will get a really short life.. and some sensitive equipment might fail.. and the voltage would drop to or below 13 volt..

For sure the battery would get dranage issues if the car sits for a bit..

/E

 

FWIW, this is the battery I'm using in my car. It sat for two months and still cranked over... just.

D4900 - 12V AGM Battery

Other than the larger capacity (1075CA), the advantage of a battery like this is it should handle being drained and recharged better than your regular lead acid type.

If your car regularly sits for long periods of time without being driven, it's probably cheaper to just buy a trickle charger though.


Northstar make great batteries as well
NorthStar Batteries Online Parts Catalog

 

Ok I now keep my battery(since brand new in Feb. this year) on a tender but before that, I was getting a flat cell after sitting 3-4 days. The only known electrical issue I'm aware of is in the driver's side window switch, as it gets very hot to touch & I have to trip the fuse often because it shuts down my window & sunroof function.

Could a short in the window switch pack/module be the culprit in my drain situation ?

I'm finally @ the point w/ this car(all major issues addressed) I can now focus on the small things that pester me lol.

 

Great you finally bother us with peanuts .

As a start, you can just pull the fuse if you plan to park your car for a longer time, and see what happens.

A bit more specific, if you know how to use a multi meter, you can measure the sleeping Amp's, start pulling the fuses, and see where it ends.

It is a bit time consuming, but not difficult, can walk you through.

 

One thing I have plenty of these days is time lol.

In the last few weeks knocking out 80% of my "to-do list" (paint,knock sensor,front suspension,t-stat upgrade,some chrome accents,ABS solder,tracked down some annoying dash creaks & moans), I'm feeling accomplished lol.

Now my perfectionist or as my ex-wife would say "pedantic" side rears it's head, I must track down the battery drain lol.

 

This is often discussed and sadly quite often misunderstood.
All modern cars have what is correctly termed 'quiescent drain'.
When you switch of the car will take up to 30 minutes to 'spool down'
all it's systems before it goes into 'sleep mode' where it will continue
to power in the back ground the major ECU's to maintain basic references.
If you lock your car, the rain is less but it will always be there, it's the nature of modern vehicle electronics.

The simplest and most effective method to combat this is to use a
modern battery monitor hooked to the battery when the car is not in use.
My car get's used about once a week and lives on an automatic
six stage battery conditioner and my VARTA Silver Calcium 105 a/hr
850CCA battery is approaching it's 12th birthday and happily fires the car straight up when requested.
Makes sure all your battery connections are scrupulously clean and protected with di-electric grease ( I live in a heavy salt air environment)
Even though the car is garaged, this will still affect things.

 

I went through all fuses, connectors, relays and additional equipment connections, quite a bit of work but doable...

I never found the problem, but I must have hit something (or a combination of small issues), cause my sleeping current is back to ~30mA.

Still disconnect the battery for longer periods though, as I do not have electricity in the basement where I park.

 

Did you ever figure it out? My 02 Sport constantly switches between .05 and .06 in sleep mode.

 

That might be the meter. Can you not use a milli scale? Then you'd see (say) 55mA and whether it's steady.

You sound to be around an acceptable value.

Note: to switch to a mA scale you probably have to start on an A one and on many meters if you switch it will momentarily disconnect - which you do not want. You'd have to bypass the meter before you switch then afterwards remove the bypass.