XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

First test drive with new “a” drive was smooth then OMG, help please

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  #41  
Old 10-07-2015, 06:06 AM
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This is getting more complicated every day. You will be able to write a book on the pitfalls of 5HP24 A drum repair.
 
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  #42  
Old 10-07-2015, 07:13 AM
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Well, I order to get her fixed I'd like to have that kind of mastery but, I do agree that by making my inexperience obvious, this dialogue might be informative to anyone who might try to do this or find themselves in a similar situation. I really hope I can finally bring my seafrost pearl back to life..... Will P

All help appreciated...
 

Last edited by Will P; 10-07-2015 at 07:58 AM. Reason: typo
  #43  
Old 10-07-2015, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Will P
What does the main work, the undulating spring which is the first in in the steel plate friction plate stack or the two cup springs that are in a convex curve like fingers reaching up? I feel like I dropped the ball when I put it back together, I know know I should have asked questions and done more research especially when I felt I had nothing to compress. I can't wait to get inside and figure it out. I may have to present the evidence with photos if I can't figure it out.
The aluminum piston with the 2 'O'rings (one outer and one inner) goes into the drum FIRST.
Then the spring(s) assy and THEN the steel spring retainer cup.
Compress the assy and install the circlip.

The thick steel clutch ring goes in next and then start layering/alternating the frictions/steels.

Install the LARGE snap ring and then align and center all the 'teeth' in the frictions so the next drum will drop in without fouling.

bob gauff
 
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  #44  
Old 10-07-2015, 03:33 PM
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Default I assume..

Originally Posted by motorcarman
The aluminum piston with the 2 'O'rings (one outer and one inner) goes into the drum FIRST.
Then the spring(s) assy and THEN the steel spring retainer cup.
Compress the assy and install the circlip.

The thick steel clutch ring goes in next and then start layering/alternating the frictions/steels.

Install the LARGE snap ring and then align and center all the 'teeth' in the frictions so the next drum will drop in without fouling.

bob gauff
I thought that's what I did but I did take it apart a couple of times. Hopefully tomorrow or Friday I will get to see if I did any of that wrong or if something broke. I didn't know it the spring went in with the curved side up or down. I saw pictures with curved side up in some transmissions and I think I saw directions on another(but no pictues) that said it went down and that was not a 5 hp 24, it was a ford or someother.

I am looking forward to finding something out and moving closer to the answers for this thing. No matter the outcome for this girl, thanks for the help. aI do know that I didn't compress anything and the snapring over the springs and spring holder went on easily. So, I am so curious...... Will P
 

Last edited by Will P; 10-07-2015 at 03:34 PM. Reason: typo
  #45  
Old 10-07-2015, 04:03 PM
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CUP side DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff
 
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  #46  
Old 10-07-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
CUP side DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff
I'm pretty sure I put it in with the curve or cup side up, the fingers of the spring up away from drum so that was probably the problem. Let's hope and I hope I can unscramble my mess. So you are saying the convex or curved side goes down toward the piston. I promise you there are others out there that this info will help if not now eventually. Thanks Thanks so much..... Will
 
  #47  
Old 10-07-2015, 07:53 PM
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The aluminum piston has a ridge that will hold the outer edge of the spring CENTERED and THEN you drop the steel cup/top plate onto the spring.

Press the assy DOWN and install the circlip. Piece-O-Cake.

bob gauff
 
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  #48  
Old 10-07-2015, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
The aluminum piston has a ridge that will hold the outer edge of the spring CENTERED and THEN you drop the steel cup/top plate onto the spring.

Press the assy DOWN and install the circlip. Piece-O-Cake.

bob gauff
I hope the fact that I didn't over try when I discovered this will minimize the damage. I may have dodged a huge bullet....... Thanks Bob and all.... Will
 
  #49  
Old 10-08-2015, 11:55 AM
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Default As expected and predicted....




Well even the other side of the brown disk was black, the clutch pack was all tight tight tight very hard against the retaining clip and after fishing them out 5 were black on both sides and one had some brown as you can see. A few weeks ago when I re-did the drive they were all pristine lighter brown like they were new. The steels were not damaged but had back stipes on some from the pressure against the fiber plates.

Looks like I need to order 6 new plates.....probably today, any suggestions..

Also the whole probem was caused by my improver installation of the spring that returns the piston after hydrallic pressure engages the a drive. When lordy me, I just took it all apart and put her back like the mortorcarman, MR. Bob said, and ever with my finger I couldn't press enough to even see where the clip went. Soi I got a couple of pieces of flat steel (thanks grinder) and two monster C clamps and gently compressed the assembly until I had room to "CLIP" the sucker in place. I think that was probably the problem.= I with the advice I will install new fiber plates (unless advised not to) and flip that transmission back on the "mystical ocean frost pearl " vanden plas and pray for a tailwind........


I will post my progress and any additional issues. This continues to be so educational for me..... Will P Thanks everyone....
 
  #50  
Old 10-08-2015, 03:45 PM
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You might get away with just a set of frictions if the steels are still OK. (not warped, scored or 'BLUE').

I place the drum in a shop press with the input shaft down between 2 one inch plates and press the steel spring cup with part of an adjustable pitman arm puller.

The cup/spring is compressed and the clip installed.

bob gauff

 

Last edited by motorcarman; 10-08-2015 at 03:47 PM.
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  #51  
Old 10-08-2015, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
You might get away with just a set of frictions if the steels are still OK. (not warped, scored or 'BLUE').

I place the drum in a shop press with the input shaft down between 2 one inch plates and press the steel spring cup with part of an adjustable pitman arm puller.

The cup/spring is compressed and the clip installed.

bob gauff

Part of my spring compression solution

The steels weren't blue and I feel good about them. Using the clamps worked well, I used a mounted 2x4 with a hole for the shaft and two small flat pieces of steel and two c clamps, and like you said, click. And, checking it with a compressor and watching the action, make me feel not quite so un-mechanical. I'll order some frictions, and by the way do you recomend anyone with pretty quick delivery, early next week is probably the best I can do. I am so hopeful and anxious to get her back together. I have everything well protected from moisture and dust.. Thanks So much. Will P


 
  #52  
Old 10-15-2015, 05:10 PM
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Default New clutch pads in..........finally

Well I got the new pads in, soaked them overnight and installed them in the transmission I removed last week. Today I got the trans almost in. I had a hard time lining it up today, but I finally remember a post by one of our members that said he gently jacked up the front of the engine at the oil pan, and I gave that a try and I got her lined up to get eight or so bolts in and hopefully tomorrow I can finish that and much more of the installation process. It's interesting how all the little tips from our collective knowlege pool help with each project. I wanted to note I made two three and and half inch bolts, sized for the transmission mounting holes, that I cut the heads off and made a standard screwdrive slit in the stub and these little jobs were invaluable to me to line up the bellhousing/transmission unit to the engine. This was another tip from a post read on this site.....Thanks

One other thought, was I keep thinking, that this darn thing seem so heavy, heck it nearly broke my "economical" Harbor Freight transmisson jack and was a witch to wiggle around, then it hit me. I didn't drain the transmission fluid which if you think about it added a good 40 ish lbs of weight the the 250 trans. Heck my sudden weakness was just a miscalculation. LOL

Thanks to all, more progress soon.....
Will P
 
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  #53  
Old 10-17-2015, 10:45 AM
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Default Stumble on re-install x308 5 hp 24 2000 vp

I'm hoping for some thoughts on this one.....

The following is to gain insights from our memebers and to share the task and any hurdles I experience..

Friday- Midmorning forward

I got my new clutch pads installed and am re-installing my transmission. I made a mistake and must have moved the torque converter away from the appature where you attach it to the drive plate, the transmission is torqued down and the converter seems frozen in place as far as lining it up with the appature. I have several quick questions. Is the torque converter supposed to turn easily at this point? Is there any way to move it into position without hurting it with the transmission torqued down.

If not, can I back out the bolts but not disconnect the transmission and gett he torque converter to align or worst case do I need to take the transmission all the way off. I know this is a rookie mistake and I'm so dissapointed, haven learn so much and making corrections the first time.
Please advise sir, I really apprecitate your help.

I just tried to turn the crankshaft from the front and it seems frozen as well, recon I have something else mis-alined and probably need a remove and reinstall.*

All the bolts are in, the installing felt funny but I couldn't discern what it was....

I have a feeling you are going to suggest I pull it apart and redo, but is there something I should be looking for. Is it possible to not seat then spigot properly on the torque converter, how do I look for damage or just try and re-mount. Something just felt wrong though all the bolts went the holes... I'm curious. I'm sorry to bombard you!

I had a hard time aligning it and had to use the bolts to bring it to, I have a feeling that was the problem...

I took out all the bolts and pulled it an inch or so apart and the torque converter turned easily. So, I must have done something that caused the TC to wedge against the drive plate. I very carfully re aligned it and gently place the torque spigot in it's nest and with a little pushing and adjusting got it lined up better, much much easiler than the last time. Last summer the thing practically jumped on by itself, it seemed so easy. I am not compltetly flush with the engine yet (other worldly duties) I'm trying to keep the edges all around the bell housing equal distance. And, the torque converter will still turn, not bound up. I can see how now, and I'm still guessing on this that kind of forcing the bellhousing on the motor with the power of the screws could led to some mis allignment. Anyway, I would still appreciate any insights if you have time.*

Soooo, you see where I am. I'm going to get back in the hunt for the finish line on Monday. Everytime you have a experience like this you learn so much. If I can get this girl running nicely, I will be a happy boy, be it an almost 70 boy. Oh well, young at heart... Will P
 
  #54  
Old 10-19-2015, 05:08 PM
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Default Well, it does fit, afterall

Suceess finally with my transmission to engine problem. If you have been following this post remember I said the first time I reinstalled the transmission it flew on relatively easy.

This time it went on with difficulty, and from this point I wound up taking it off and putting it back two more times but, the last time after taking all the bolts out I backed the transsmission back away from the engine and very carefully turned the torque converter slowly and pulling it toward the rear and just as I thought, well this is futile, click the thing went backward about an inch or thereabouts, I knew i had solved the problem. It went on like cheese in grits and butter. Not finished, I did have a short victory dance I admitt.

The first time I did this I must have luckily put the torque converter back in exactly the right place, I didn't know it could go bad.

Anyhow, more as I go. Thanks for the help I have received. Will P
 
  #55  
Old 11-06-2015, 12:31 PM
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Default Well just test drove her

And, so far even the check engine light went out for the first time ever. She seems to drive smooth and except for a slight tinging sound during a aggressive take off she seems ok. I did have a binding problem during re-installation noted in this post

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...verter-152254/

I really appreciate any and all help and info from the members here. Thanks, Will P
 
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  #56  
Old 11-06-2015, 11:17 PM
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Glad you seem to have it! And thanks for the updates.
 
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by sparkenzap
Glad you seem to have it! And thanks for the updates.
My pleasure, I'm still wary but hopeful, she's doing well so far. And, I couldn't have done this, no matter the ultimate outcome, with out the previous post and help from this forum. I'd be glad to answer any questions about my experience should someone need that input. Thanks, Will P
 
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:19 PM
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Way to stay with it.
 
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by deancantrell
Way to stay with it.
Thanks, I really need the encouragement from the forum to hang in there....
 
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  #60  
Old 09-18-2018, 02:56 PM
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