How to replace front shock bushings on XJ8 or XJR with pics HOW TO.
#1
10-12-2014, 09:57 AM
How to replace front shock bushings on XJ8 or XJR with pics HOW TO.
Today I got started replacing my upper front shock bushings on my 2001 XJR with 74K miles. The old stock orange bushings were starting to crumble, but I had not started to get the clunk sound everyone talks about when they are completely worn out.
The job is pretty simple. Took about 30 minutes to remove both sides.
Pics of the removal included, now I just have to take the bushing mounts to my local mechanic to have the old ones pressed out and new ones installed.
I bought new, black bushings with new shock nuts and washers on the 'bay for about $50 here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291258765102...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Excellent instructions were included with the kit, I would attach them, but they are marked "Do not copy, property of ......"
The dealer only sells the entire bushing assembly, mounting plate and all for about $300 each, so doing the job this way is significantly less expensive.
I'll post some more pics and a final report when the job is complete.
Vector
The job is pretty simple. Took about 30 minutes to remove both sides.
Pics of the removal included, now I just have to take the bushing mounts to my local mechanic to have the old ones pressed out and new ones installed.
I bought new, black bushings with new shock nuts and washers on the 'bay for about $50 here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291258765102...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Excellent instructions were included with the kit, I would attach them, but they are marked "Do not copy, property of ......"
The dealer only sells the entire bushing assembly, mounting plate and all for about $300 each, so doing the job this way is significantly less expensive.
I'll post some more pics and a final report when the job is complete.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 10-12-2014 at 10:17 AM.
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Top Answer
10-18-2014, 10:39 AM
I completed swapping out my front shock bushings today.
Cost me $50 for new bushings for both sides and $20 at the local mechanic to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in place.
The install is simply a reverse of the removal. Don't forget to re-install the power steering reservoir.
The jacking height is important to make sure you have the car high enough to take the pressure off the bushings, but not so high that the shock "drops" when you remove the retention nut.
I included a pic below of the power steering reservoir moved out of the way to access the mount on the left side of the car.
Took about the same amount of time to install as it did to remove the old bushing plates - about 30 minutes total.
All in all an easy job and the total cost, including paying someone else to press in the new bushings was about $70. A lot less than the $600+ in parts cost for new bushings with plates from the dealer.
Ride seems better, steering is more precise, but I am still going to install new sway bar bushings and links front and rear and probably new shock bushings in the rear too.
The last pic is of the completed install on the right side, which is the same procedure as the left except that you don't have the power steering reservoir in the way.
Vector
Cost me $50 for new bushings for both sides and $20 at the local mechanic to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in place.
The install is simply a reverse of the removal. Don't forget to re-install the power steering reservoir.
The jacking height is important to make sure you have the car high enough to take the pressure off the bushings, but not so high that the shock "drops" when you remove the retention nut.
I included a pic below of the power steering reservoir moved out of the way to access the mount on the left side of the car.
Took about the same amount of time to install as it did to remove the old bushing plates - about 30 minutes total.
All in all an easy job and the total cost, including paying someone else to press in the new bushings was about $70. A lot less than the $600+ in parts cost for new bushings with plates from the dealer.
Ride seems better, steering is more precise, but I am still going to install new sway bar bushings and links front and rear and probably new shock bushings in the rear too.
The last pic is of the completed install on the right side, which is the same procedure as the left except that you don't have the power steering reservoir in the way.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 10-18-2014 at 01:06 PM.
#3
10-18-2014, 10:39 AM
I completed swapping out my front shock bushings today.
Cost me $50 for new bushings for both sides and $20 at the local mechanic to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in place.
The install is simply a reverse of the removal. Don't forget to re-install the power steering reservoir.
The jacking height is important to make sure you have the car high enough to take the pressure off the bushings, but not so high that the shock "drops" when you remove the retention nut.
I included a pic below of the power steering reservoir moved out of the way to access the mount on the left side of the car.
Took about the same amount of time to install as it did to remove the old bushing plates - about 30 minutes total.
All in all an easy job and the total cost, including paying someone else to press in the new bushings was about $70. A lot less than the $600+ in parts cost for new bushings with plates from the dealer.
Ride seems better, steering is more precise, but I am still going to install new sway bar bushings and links front and rear and probably new shock bushings in the rear too.
The last pic is of the completed install on the right side, which is the same procedure as the left except that you don't have the power steering reservoir in the way.
Vector
Cost me $50 for new bushings for both sides and $20 at the local mechanic to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in place.
The install is simply a reverse of the removal. Don't forget to re-install the power steering reservoir.
The jacking height is important to make sure you have the car high enough to take the pressure off the bushings, but not so high that the shock "drops" when you remove the retention nut.
I included a pic below of the power steering reservoir moved out of the way to access the mount on the left side of the car.
Took about the same amount of time to install as it did to remove the old bushing plates - about 30 minutes total.
All in all an easy job and the total cost, including paying someone else to press in the new bushings was about $70. A lot less than the $600+ in parts cost for new bushings with plates from the dealer.
Ride seems better, steering is more precise, but I am still going to install new sway bar bushings and links front and rear and probably new shock bushings in the rear too.
The last pic is of the completed install on the right side, which is the same procedure as the left except that you don't have the power steering reservoir in the way.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 10-18-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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#4
10-18-2014, 10:46 AM
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#6
10-19-2014, 04:55 AM
Some folks have hammered them out and back in with an appropriate sized socked and a BFH, but it is not recommended that you do it that way. You can crush the metal bearing surfaces or break them.
The cost to take it to an automotive machine shop that has a press and the proper adapters is small compared to the risk of having to replace the entire assembly of you make a mistake.
You can also fabricate a home made press using a bottle jack, some all thread rod and a couple of pieces of large angle iron, but the cost and time to do this doesn't really seem to be worth it, unless you think you may use the press for other purposes in the future.
Vector
The cost to take it to an automotive machine shop that has a press and the proper adapters is small compared to the risk of having to replace the entire assembly of you make a mistake.
You can also fabricate a home made press using a bottle jack, some all thread rod and a couple of pieces of large angle iron, but the cost and time to do this doesn't really seem to be worth it, unless you think you may use the press for other purposes in the future.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 10-19-2014 at 06:45 PM.
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bigcat777 (10-21-2014)
#7
10-19-2014, 10:14 AM
Veteran Member
Elsewhere on this forum, there are threads with pictures that show how to separate the bushing using a BFH and the correctly sized sockets and how to reinstall and tighten the bushings down. Old Mike put pictures to writeups from others. It is an easy five minute effort. And frankly, I can't see how you would bust the bushing if the socket is correctly fitted (might distort the socket, however). But quite clearly, if you have access to a press, USE IT instead!
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#8
11-29-2014, 07:21 PM
Hitting a standard socket with a hammer is a big no no, and something only a complete fool would do. Never hit any kind of hardened tool with another one! Something is likely to shatter. It's one of the main golden rules of workshop safety.
No need to jack the car up at all. I put mine on ramps, just to make the front at an easier height to work on.
I bought a $100 hydraulic press from Harbour Freight. Pays for itself in a couple of jobs.
No need to jack the car up at all. I put mine on ramps, just to make the front at an easier height to work on.
I bought a $100 hydraulic press from Harbour Freight. Pays for itself in a couple of jobs.
Last edited by Mark SF; 11-29-2014 at 07:25 PM.
#9
11-29-2014, 08:20 PM
Member
#11
11-30-2014, 06:02 AM
The choice seems pretty simple to me: Buy a press or pay $20-50 to have the job done by someone with the proper tools and experience.
The old adage "If you can't fix it with a hammer, you need a bigger hammer" may apply here, but the risk and increased cost is significant.
You can get a wheel off your car with a BFH too, but you will end up needing to buy a new wheel, lol!
Vector
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jimlombardi (12-02-2015)
#12
12-02-2014, 01:57 AM
Senior Member
I did the mounts last week.
The socket extension in bushing/BFH method of dismantling did not work! Perhaps I needed a Jaguar BFH (Imperial). The upper, spongy bushing seemed to absorb the hammer blows.
I used a two arm puller to take off the top round plate. Easy as pie, no drama.
I used the method of Old Mike to put it back together again. It is important to seat the rubber cushion in the bushing before pulling the top plate on. It is a tight fit. Also I took a Dremel sander to the lower edge of the upper cushion so that it would fit snugly in the top, shallow "cup".
I did jack up each side to ease removal and refitting.
Once you get started, you will see that it is not a difficult job.
Just remember the nearly $800 savings.
Without this site, we would be broke tending to the beast.
The socket extension in bushing/BFH method of dismantling did not work! Perhaps I needed a Jaguar BFH (Imperial). The upper, spongy bushing seemed to absorb the hammer blows.
I used a two arm puller to take off the top round plate. Easy as pie, no drama.
I used the method of Old Mike to put it back together again. It is important to seat the rubber cushion in the bushing before pulling the top plate on. It is a tight fit. Also I took a Dremel sander to the lower edge of the upper cushion so that it would fit snugly in the top, shallow "cup".
I did jack up each side to ease removal and refitting.
Once you get started, you will see that it is not a difficult job.
Just remember the nearly $800 savings.
Without this site, we would be broke tending to the beast.
#13
12-10-2014, 11:32 AM
Senior Member
#15
12-11-2014, 04:15 AM
Senior Member
#17
04-28-2015, 09:15 AM
Veteran Member
install questions...
Hello, helpful thread here!
I ordered the new bushings but they did not come with new washers and lock nuts. Should I re-use the old ones and if not what is a good source for the new ones (other than dealer)?
Also, what is the proper torque when putting that lock nut back on the mount?
thanks
I ordered the new bushings but they did not come with new washers and lock nuts. Should I re-use the old ones and if not what is a good source for the new ones (other than dealer)?
Also, what is the proper torque when putting that lock nut back on the mount?
thanks
#18
04-29-2015, 03:46 AM
Torque for the 10mm nuts attaching the mount plate are not listed in the instructions I received with my bushings, but the instructions say not to over tighten them since "you are dealing with sheet metal here."
Torque for the 17mm shock nut is 30 ft/lbs with instructions to make sure you hold the center of the shaft to prevent it from turning when you remove and replace the nut on the shock.
Vector
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harvest14 (04-29-2015)
#19
12-02-2015, 01:21 AM
Veteran Member
Since Old Mike method is mentioned in this thread - I thought that it would be a good idea to give the weblink to his post in the other thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-pics-103540/
Look at his post #1 - titled: Replacing Front Shock Mount Bushings - PICS
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-pics-103540/
Look at his post #1 - titled: Replacing Front Shock Mount Bushings - PICS