Before it runs out, go buy a lottery ticket!

 

Did Harvest ever post the results for his VVT code episode?

 

When I changed the oil in the car, which was my wife's car but now is MY daily driver (bought her a 2004 XJ8 that she fell in love with), the oil coming out didn't look too good. I ran Castrol 10w-30 synthetic blend for about 1,500 miles then drained again.

I dropped the pan for a thorough cleaning and new gasket (no plastic parts found anywhere) and refilled with Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. The VVT codes disappeared after the first oil change, and have never reappeared. My theory is either the oil quality was too poor and/or the oil filter was clogged. It is certainly possible that during my tensioner replacement procedure I broke loose sludgy deposits or something that could have restricted proper oil flow.

 

Great! Glad you got it sorted. Uh, Oh, you are hooked on the Jaguar obsession. It leads to many questionable decisions!

 

I am 99.9% certain that the factory uses thread locker on the cam cap bolts when assembling the engine.

When I did my tensioners, I could literally smell the thread locker when the cam cap bolts finally broke loose.

I did not use thread locker when I re-assembled and as far as I know neither has anyone else.

Vector

 

Maybe it's good that I over torqued them then, since I didn't use any thread locker...

 

You are missing the plastic shoe from one tensioner. The pieces will end up in the oil pickup screen and could reduce flow to the pump. It would be a good idea to drop the pan and remove the pieces.

 

I'm planning on doing that at some point in the future. The existing oil pan has some fairly extensive rust, so I want to replace it with a less corroded used part anyway.

 

Over torquing is usually not a good thing.

Torque and thread locker are not the same thing.

Torque ensures the proper "tension" on the bearing caps, and the thread locker just makes sure it stays that way.

You will probably be OK, but usually torque figures for engine components are an important guide to follow to the letter.

My first experience with this was when I cracked the aluminum timing cover on my Lotus twin cam engine by over torquing the bolts about 40 years ago. Aluminum welding was very expensive in those days, but not as expensive as buying a new cover from Chapman. Or as tough as waiting the two to three months it took to get parts across the pond back then.
Vector

 

My XF 3.0 Diesel died suddenly. Among other things I tested the compression and noted lack of compression in Number 5 cylinder. Took camshaft cover off and there was a broken camshaft timing chain. Closer inspection showed one of the plastic runners on the tensioner had broken off. The broken runner had deep sprocket marks along its length. I strongly suspect the runner broke and caught between the sprocket and chain resulting in the chain snapping.
Has anyone had a similar experience.

 

You are on the wrong forum.y

 

Being new to the forum and not seeing the need for yet another tensioner thread... Let me just ask here..
Are there any preference on where to get parts for tensioner upgrade?
Are the ebay kits OK?

 

Christopher's Foreign Car Parts. ? CHRISTOPHERS FOREIGN CAR PARTS.COM

 

The jaguar manual suggests using thread locker on the chain tensioner mounting bolts and the all the camshaft seal cap mounting bolts but not the intermediate camshaft journals.

 

Finally getting around to this myself. Just put in an order with SNG Barratt for tensioners, gaskets and a couple of other items I need for the upcoming 120k service.
However, they don't have the 35mm bolts I need for the upgraded tensioners
Does anyone know who has these? I'm sure I could go through the local dealer, but I'd rather not pay $20 per bolt :P

Head Flanged Bolts: part number JFB10607E

 

Any hardware supplier should have them, some people have cut the old ones.

 

I believe JFB10607B025 is the Eurospare part number for the shorter secondary tensioner bolt.

 

Have you a Land Rover dealers? Ask them?

 

The correct bolts for the new secondary tensioners I received from Christopher's Foreign Car Parts, came with the tensioners.

I am doing my timing gear next week and other than sourcing the crank holder/puller I have everything I need. My question is probably a very simple and common sense one, but given the critical nature of the timing system I will ask just to be on the safe side.

My secondary tensioners are only 5 months old. I am now going in to replace the rest of the timing gear. Is there any special directions since I will NOT be removing the secondaries? My plan was simply to put a large wire-tie around each one holding it at it's current extension. Then, when the new chains are on, removing the wire-tie. This may not even be necessary but I'm not really clear on how they operate.

Could someone address this for me?

Thanks.

 

Looks good.
I hope to have my own success story soon. will inform all