Just won't start
#1
Just won't start
This continues the ongoing saga of "Closing after surgery," where my jag stalled, refused to start, and after pulling the cam covers and discovering pieces of the tensioner I decided the time had come for chains and tensionersR&R.
That was 6 months ago and I still haven't got it to run. It started briefly a few times but immediately stalled. DTC's indicated MAF which I replaced. It has new coils and plugs and checked with a fuel pressure gauge I had 38 lbs at the rail.
Today I figured I would disconnect the fuel line and position a glass jar to recover fuel and verify the initial burst of fuel with key on and then the constant supply once started.
The car started and I needed to shut it down because the glass jar was filling.
ECM ?
That was 6 months ago and I still haven't got it to run. It started briefly a few times but immediately stalled. DTC's indicated MAF which I replaced. It has new coils and plugs and checked with a fuel pressure gauge I had 38 lbs at the rail.
Today I figured I would disconnect the fuel line and position a glass jar to recover fuel and verify the initial burst of fuel with key on and then the constant supply once started.
The car started and I needed to shut it down because the glass jar was filling.
ECM ?
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BobRoy (01-15-2017)
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Don B (01-23-2017)
#3
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Don B (01-23-2017)
#6
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When you say it started, ...that was without one of the lines connected? ...did it run rough? Because the point that you took some fuel away and she started sounds like she's flooding. Have you checked the plugs to see if they are damp and did you replace or regap the plugs when you did the tensioners?
Have you tried the procedure for a flooded motor? Press the peddle all the way down and hold it, then roll the motor over, ...this will tell the ECM its flooded and to cut fuel being sent. It either cuts fuel in half or off, I don't exactly recall, but that's the procedure.
Have you tried the procedure for a flooded motor? Press the peddle all the way down and hold it, then roll the motor over, ...this will tell the ECM its flooded and to cut fuel being sent. It either cuts fuel in half or off, I don't exactly recall, but that's the procedure.
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jaghag00 (01-21-2017)
#7
That's is what it indicated to me, that it was getting the full amount of fuel but wasn't able to ignite it properly. The plugs are new iridium with a gap of 042". I've looked at the ECM and it appears clean and absent of any corrosion and I exchanged relays temporarily from air conditioner to ignition relay with no effect. The fuel collected was without debris and plentifull. I haven't yet located the 2 ignition modules but intend to do that next. Obviously I'm extremely grateful that you may lend your advice and I thank you. Not giving up
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#12
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So, now the Q is why are you pumping so much fuel? What sensor is calling for it and why?
In this thread the conclusion seems to be a bad fuel pressure regulator...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...problem-44948/
In this thread the conclusion seems to be a bad fuel pressure regulator...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...problem-44948/
#13
I didn't mean to imply that it was getting too much fuel but rather it wasn't getting the nessasary spark or not at the correct time.
This car never had flooding issues in the past and doesn't act like the problem here.
Albeit the plugs not igniting the fuel is essentially the same thing,
This car never had flooding issues in the past and doesn't act like the problem here.
Albeit the plugs not igniting the fuel is essentially the same thing,
#14
You said it might not be getting spark at the correct time. Have you rechecked timing since the engine has been turned over? If not put the crank locking tool back in and then check that the cams are flat.
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Don B (01-23-2017)
#15
Disregard my last post. I went through you prevoius threads and I think you double check the timing so that should be good.
When you first removed the cam covers after the engine stalled were the cam flats in line? If they were your non starting issue might be what originally stalled the car. The tensioners weren't what stalled the car.
What happen when the car stalled, was it operating normally, was it running rough, was it overheating, were there any codes or display on dash?
When you first removed the cam covers after the engine stalled were the cam flats in line? If they were your non starting issue might be what originally stalled the car. The tensioners weren't what stalled the car.
What happen when the car stalled, was it operating normally, was it running rough, was it overheating, were there any codes or display on dash?
#16
The only thing that precipitated the no start was the heater hoses under the intake manifold were starting to leak. It never overheated but after pressurizing the system I was able to locate the leak.
So I pulled the the throttle body and intake and R&R the 2 hoses, already had installed the aluminum housing, installed a new thermostat, and reassembled.
New antifreeze and she started and ran smoothly like she had always done. For 2 days and about 250 miles it ran normally and showed no sign of leaking. Then in my driveway it stalled on my wife and when it didn't seem to want to start back up she called me at work.
Having just done the htr hose repair I was careful to give the engine a good visual before attempting to start. No leaks, everything looked fine. I turned the key and she fired right up, ran smoothly for about 10 to 15 seconds, and then quit. I haven't gotten it to run since. The above mentioned codes were pulled at the time
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Here is a long shot but simple to do. Replace the fuel pump relay with another relay that is not needed to start the car. You origional problem is similar to what happened to my xk8. Link to my post.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...reeway-174685/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...reeway-174685/
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Don B (01-28-2017)
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