XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Long turn over period before starting - front end noise

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Old 05-05-2016, 07:07 PM
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Default Long turn over period before starting - front end noise

Hi all,

My 1998 XJR has been having this intermittent issue lately where sometimes it won't start but turn over for a solid 5-8 seconds. Other times it turns over and starts right up. I had one fuel pump replaced >3k miles ago an not sure if this is a fuel pump issue or otherwise.

Can anyone relate to this or know what the culprit could possibly be?

The other thing that recently popped up is the front end has been making noise when driving over bumps or uneven pavement...even when turning the wheel in the garage when pulling in. It's metal, but I can't distinguish as to whether or not its suspension or what. I'll be getting under the car this weekend and inspecting the front end components to see if some bearing or bushings are worn out or perhaps something has snapped? (does not affect drivability)

Any and all feedback would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:36 PM
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Do you have any codes regarding the long start? I would clean the MAF with MAF only cleaner and check for vacuum leaks.
Front end noise:
Check your shock towers for bushing deterioration...
Check wheel bearings...
Check tie rods...
Check upper and lower ball joints...
Check sway bar bushings...
Check control arm bushings...
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Highhorse
Do you have any codes regarding the long start? I would clean the MAF with MAF only cleaner and check for vacuum leaks.
Front end noise:
Check your shock towers for bushing deterioration...
Check wheel bearings...
Check tie rods...
Check upper and lower ball joints...
Check sway bar bushings...
Check control arm bushings...
No codes- didn't occur that it may be the MAF...thanks! Will do tomorrow.

My gut was telling me it was the strut towers, either the whole assembly (I live in a rust prone area) along with bushings due to aging.

Hubs/bearings were done, but the bushings will have to be examined in great detail.

Thanks a bunch!
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:59 AM
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Long crank on cold start up is almost always the secondary fuel pump. Which pump did you have replaced.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rocklandjag
Long crank on cold start up is almost always the secondary fuel pump. Which pump did you have replaced.
Nice diagnostic tip, thanks. When my engine is cold (more than 6 hours sitting) it takes 5 or 6 turns to start (2-4 seconds). It fires up on the first or second turn when warm. Is this an indication that my secondary fuel pump is failing?

I am sort of in "restore" mode on this car so I am considering just replacing both fuel pumps as a matter of preventative maintenance. The car is 13 years old (03 XJR) and has a little over 115k miles. There is no evidence the fuel pumps have ever been replaced. I've never driven an XJR before so if the performance is reduced due to a failing secondary fuel pump, I probably wouldn't notice. It's MUCH faster than my XJ8 though!

I can't seem to find the secondary fuel pump on the heritage website where I normally get my part numbers. I'm pretty sure both pumps are the same though. Could someone recommend good replacement fuel pumps within a $200 budget?

Not trying to steal the thread. I hope this info will be useful for the OP as well.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:58 AM
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Amazon is always a place to search for a better deal, mines a 2000, so be sure to verify fit.
Amazon.com: Denso 950-0172 Fuel Pump: Automotive Amazon.com: Denso 950-0172 Fuel Pump: Automotive
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:25 AM
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Ok, so I just went out and did the fuel pump test. I pulled fuel pump relay 2 and the car started and ran normally. I pulled fuel pump relay 1 and it never would start. I tried 8 or 10 times, sometimes cranking for as much as 10-15 seconds. It never even tried to start. I tried a new relay in the pump relay 2 position just to rule out a bad relay, still no start.

I guess this means I'm pulling my gas tank soon?

Edit - I have to leave for work in a couple of hours and I want to get everything I'll need ordered so I can make this repair on my next day off, Tuesday. I am planning to select and order two fuel pumps, JLM20756 is listed for my 03 XJR. Also I am ordering the fuel line disconnect tool. Anything else I should need?
 

Last edited by harvest14; 05-06-2016 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:21 PM
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Dang Harvest, your on your way to building a new car at this rate.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:24 PM
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I am ok with re-building the car, as long as my budget holds out. I set aside a pretty fair amount of money for after purchase repair/maintenance. I'm burning through that money at a steady pace, but the results good. The car is really riding smooth and handling well. I really like the car, and getting it driving like new would make me very happy.

It seems the car was somewhat neglected the last few years so I feel like I'm saving a classic.

Anybody have any feedback on the following fuel pump? It's one of the few that comes up when I search using the updated part number.

Amazon.com: HFP-382 Intank Replacement Fuel Pump Kit with Strainer: Automotive Amazon.com: HFP-382 Intank Replacement Fuel Pump Kit with Strainer: Automotive
 

Last edited by harvest14; 05-06-2016 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:53 AM
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I've never heard of HFP Harvest. They do state a lifetime warranty at the bottom, but a 100,000 mile field of operation at the top. I am leery of statements like that, but the price is tempting. But it does state it is an aftermarket pump in an indirect way, but stating "it doesn't whine like other aftermarket pumps" under Features & Benefits.
For me, I would pay the extra $25 for a proven OE name like Denso.
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:47 AM
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Yes, go with the Denso. Having the pump fail when you're a couple of hundred miles from home isn't worth it.

I did buy a $16 Chinese pump that I carry as a spare on a trip, and cut an access hatch in the rear deck so that I can change the pump without moving the tank, but I am using a Denso and will probably never need the spare.
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:00 AM
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I would buy the Denso pumps immediately and be willing to pay more for them. I cannot find a Denso pump that claims to fit my car! If it was a pre 2001 XJR there are Denso pumps available everywhere, but I searched for one to fit my 03 XJR with no success.

If someone could provide a link to a Denso pump that fits, I will buy it!
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:54 PM
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Pretty sure that Denso just did not bother
updating the catalog. The Denso will require
modification to the rubber inner bracket since
it is slightly bigger. Just slice it with a knife
I hear.

I'm running two Denso's now.

Notes from my research:

DENSO FUEL PUMP CROSS REFERENCE

1998-2003 W0133-1841263 (kit)
1995-1998 951-0008 (kit)
1995-1998 950-0183 (pump and strainer) ND1597621 (worldpac)

worldpac catalog W0133-1600065 (FIC)
worldpac catalog W0133-1656589 fuel screen
worldpac catalog W0133-1629980 fuel filter W0133-1681829 (1999-2007 GMC Sierra 1500 Fuel Filter - Bosch - Direct OE replacement )


denso fuel screen 952-0046 (1999 jaguar)

Pump Only, Supercharged Fuel Pump Only, *Also Required 1)NJB 6091AA Fuel Screen, Supercharged Fuel Pump Only..


There's more but it relates to cross references for upgraded pumps from other
vehicles. Not exact replacement.
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:38 PM
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Wow Plums, thanks.

So to be clear, which of those part numbers above am I ordering for the pump and for the strainer?
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 04:09 PM
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:08 PM
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Here ya go Harvest, this is one of my super secret links, so don't tell anyone ok? ...Frugal Mechanic - Auto Parts Search Engine Its a web crawler for parts, they don't always have the cheapest, but they are most of the time.
It asks for 3 versions of your car motor, I did the base one since I didn't know the answer and a Denso came up for $101
 
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:40 PM
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Little sarcasm there highhorse? Haha

That is the ONLY link I have followed that listed a Denso pump for my car. I have been reading lots of threads, and motorcarman commented that he had installed lots of Airtex pumps with no problems, and another member said he installed 2 in his XKR 4 years ago and still no problems. I went ahead and ordered them. I am shooting for Tuesday to do the repairs and the Airtex pumps will be delivered tomorrow (Monday).

If I have made a huge mistake at least I will have learned how to remove the fuel tank!
 

Last edited by harvest14; 05-08-2016 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:40 PM
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Lol Harvest, just a tad bit of sarcasm....anyways at least Airtex is a known commodity and I would say more trusted than that other company.
I put an Airtex in my Expedition and it lasted a year, but the second one went the next 9 yrs and 500k. Yes, I didn't typo, I put 700k on my Expy before giving it to Make a Wish for auction a couple months ago. So maybe the Airtex will hold up for ya?
 
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:26 PM
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Default Victory!

I got the fuel tank out! The stressing over disconnecting those two lines underneath the last few days was worse than actually doing it. Once I figured a way to get my hands in there, they both came out fairly easily. I did have to loosen the parking brake cable (hope I don't regret that later). I marked exactly where it was tensioned to.

Now I am going to check out the pumps and leads inside.

I also decided to take apart the rear seats and remove my non-functioning subwoofer while I was working on the car today. The speaker that came out definitely needs new foam (which I already have from Speakerworks) but one of the connection points is also badly damaged. I would love to find a reasonably priced new speaker or good condition used one and just replace it. Please see pictures below.

Now.... how the heck do you get the three little hoses off so you can unscrew it? There is no room to slide them off. Unbelievable that I would get this far and get stumped by THIS. lol I am at an impasse...

-- Seriously. I just added a picture. It took me 10, maybe 15 minutes to disconnect the dreaded fuel connections above the differential. But, an hour and 15 minutes later I have ONE of the three hoses off. Someone please tell me there's a trick to it and that someone didn't intentionally engineer it this way. JTIS is no help...
 
Attached Thumbnails Long turn over period before starting - front end noise-img_2613.jpg   Long turn over period before starting - front end noise-img_2614.jpg   Long turn over period before starting - front end noise-img_2615.jpg   Long turn over period before starting - front end noise-img_2616.jpg  

Last edited by harvest14; 05-10-2016 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:23 PM
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I managed to get two of them off; had to cut the other one. Even when it was cut, getting the pieces off was unbelievably hard! I have never seen a rubber hose so shrunk onto a fitting before. I am amazed nothing broke in the process. Now I have to break my stride and go to the auto parts store for a piece of fuel line.

One of the link leads is integrated with the wires from the fuel level sending unit. Replacing that link lead, if I even had a new one, would be difficult. The fuel level gauge works fine and the ends of the lead look clean and shiny. The wires show no damage either. The other link lead (don't know which pump is primary and which one is secondary) also looks good. Shiny connection points and no damage or discoloration on the wires.

The Airtex pumps are pretty much exactly the same size. The upper rubber mounting piece is a tighter fit, but it wedged up high enough that the pump feels secure in the bracket. None of the items that came with the pump were necessary, except the adapter wire of course. I re-used the bracket and both rubber pieces from the Jaguar pump, which according to the date stamped on the pumps were original (Feb 13, 2002).

I siphoned until the tank had only a few ounces left. It looked very clean inside. I wiped with a clean shop rag where I could reach, but it was shiny and spotless inside. I can only see the middle section as there are partitions separating each outer third of the tank, presumably to prevent sloshing around during spirited driving. I'm not planning to clean any further. The gauge showed just a hair above empty when I pulled into the garage; I'd say I got another 2 and 1/4 gallons out with the siphon. I will pour that gas back in when I'm done and drive to the gas station.

There is not a seal in the Airtex kit that matches the one on this tank. There is an O-ring about the same size, but the seal in place is flat. It looks perfectly soft and pliable, so I will re-use it.

I share so much detail because this represents new territory for me in car repair. I have never removed a gas tank. The JTIS software was very helpful in this situation. But, if there are any remarks, warnings or recommendations you'd like to post that might help me, please do.

Thanks.
 
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