ok, so, the world's slowest transmission rebuild, I work on it when I can.. finally got the transmission in, and fluid in, exhaust back on, thought good to go. but this was the result:

when I start the car, fine. when I shift to reverse, with brake on, seems to put the motor in a resistive state and stalls the motor. started again, went straight to nuetral. motor fine. went to drive, stalled motor.

tried again, straight to neutral, then to drive with brake off. motor seemed to be drug down, but car went forward. stopped car, motor didn't die. drove slowly around building. seemed to slip a bit, with a little extra pedal, transmission grabbed and went. upon slowing on a corner, transmission downshifted hard through gears. when stopped, and went to reverse, motor stalled. moved to good spot and parked. waiting on some advice to mess with it again.

notable mention, I did not change the torque converter on rebuild. thought this could be torque converter related...

thanks in advance for any sage knowledge!

Jon

 

Hi Jon,

While you're waiting for some of our knowledgeable experts to reply, you might tell us the year and model of your Jaguar. It helps to add this info to your signature so others don't have to ask.

If your car is an X308, can we assume the transmission is a ZF 5HP24?

Low transmission fluid is often associated with slipping, but also sometimes with bogging and stalling, and overfull fluid can also cause problems. Are you certain you got the fluid level correct at the specified temperature after cycling the gear selector through all the gears for a few seconds per gear (following the procedure in the Workshop Manual)?

Cheers,

Don

 

sorry, forgot to mention the model... yes, the 5hp24, in a 2000 XJ8L. While I did fill the fluid to the fill plug, I did not warm the engine, run through all gears, then fill again. maybe I'm doing it wrong, but on my car, I have to drop a catalytic converter to remove the fill plug. is there some other way to top off the fluid??

Jon

 

To access the fill plug use a cut down hex L wrench at the tip or buy a set of stubby tips from Bondhus, it's what the pros' use
L-Wrenches - Stubby Ball End

 

Fill to brim, start engine and then carefully let it warm. Move the shift lever through each gear waiting about 30 seconds. After that has been done, engine off, open the drain plug and top up until the brim is reached again. Now the tranny is fully filled.

The car should be on a level spot when doing so!

 

NO, do not pull that plug with the engine off. You will have fluid pouring out. The level has to be checked with the engine running and the transmission fluid at 30 to 50 deg C.

 

Ah, sorry, no drain plug, I meant fill plug (the side one).

 

ok, as I said, first time here... so, if I were to get a stubby wrench, or cut one down, and manage to get that bugger out, how do you get a tube in there to top it off with the motor running and that catalytic converter not melt it? sorry for such corny questions, I truly appreciate the help!!

 

is there a video out there of someone topping one of these transmissions off?

 

ok, just watched a video on filter change and fluid refill. noticed something... I may have filled from the wrong place... I pulled a plug that was in what appeared the centerline of the transmission, thinking oil levels needed to cover half the gears. but this video looked like he was reaching just an inch or two above the pan. if so, I may have too much fluid in... I put in six liters, and it took pretty much all of it...

 

If you start with the engine cold, the exhaust pipe does not get that hot. But you have to be able to measure the fluid temperature to get the level right. I use a indoor/outdoor thermometer. The sensor at the end of the copper tube fits in the fill port, and as soon as it reaches 30 deg C I pull it out and replace the plug, assuming fluid is dripping out.

 

The plug location is near the right rear, just a couple of in. up, so I think you have the right location now.

 

Fishtank tubing with small bore metal tube at one end to go in the trans, tie a funnel to the wing mirror, run the tube's other end to it and pore it in. This trick has worked a 'few occations' without issue, but what would I know...

 

Ok, I'm going to do this very soon, but now the double information has me worried. One person says you can check it promptly before the catalytic converters get hot. Another says a tube with a metal guard on it for filling. .. but then the mention of the correct fill plug being at the rear of the transmission, catalytic converter no longer An issue. Please, a little confirmation before i do something wrong! I can see the plug at the rear, easily accessible. Passenger side in America, right side if sitting in car.

 

I only use the brake cunifer tube as it wont leave fragments, goes in easy and I've fitted a banjo nut so I can tighten it in, you've got the right location.
I'll see if I can dig out the article covering this process in a Jaguar World magazine and post the pics, I'm sure that if armed with this you'll have complete confidence.

There you go, by the book.

 

well, turns out I was wrong... here I thought because I filled it to the upper fill bolt, it was over full. but I pulled the lower bolt out with the car off, and no overflow! stuck a small allen wrench in and turned down, never even hit fluid! I put five liters of zf lifeguard and one lucas transmission conditioner quart. how many should an empty transmission hold? I have to go buy more in the morning! once I have more handy, I'll be sure to warm up to correct temp and run through the gears.

 

If you drained the torque converter I believe it's around 13 qts.

 

ok, didn't drain the torque converter, how much of that thirteen quarts is in the torque converter. or do you mean thirteen liters?

 

In addition to the article Sean B referenced, the correct filling procedure is in the X308 Workshop Manual, which you can download free from this forum at this link:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/bu...hop_Manual.pdf


Page 4 of the 5HP24 parts manual also gives the oil fill procedure but may not help you deal with exhaust obstructions:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/1j...rts+manual.pdf

Cheers,

Don

 

ok, new issue: added just over one liter, oil started trickling out. put plug in loosely, applied parking brake, started car. upon starting, dash briefly said restricted performance, then after five seconds or so, went away. pulled shifter to reverse, motor didn't die! progress! pulled to neutral, good. pulled to drive, good. pulled to fourth, third, second. then back to third, back to fourth, PROBLEM!!!!

Upon returning to fourth gear, the dash flashed Gear box fault, the motor stalled. I put it back in park, and the motor wont even turn over.... it just makes a click sound, somewhere under the shifter, when I turn the key. I tried removing the battery cables, touched them together, still will not start..... any ideas what just happened????

really curious now!!