I have read all the posts relative to the P1000 code and believe I understand what it is, but I can't seem to figure out how to get rid of it to get to P1111. I have tried all of the usual recommended methods (idle, drive continuously, etc.) but it won't clear. The car otherwise runs and drives fine, no CEL or any other issues. Any other ideas? Could I just have a faulty ECU? (2001 XJR)

 

When you do an OBD scan do you get any codes at all? Is your scanner capable of reading which monitors are not set? Without knowing pending codes or unset monitors it is going to be hard to advise.
I would recommend that you follow the attached "drive cycle" sheet and see what the results are.

 

Hi Vern,
Thanks for responding. I am using Torque Pro, and no there are no codes or pending codes. I also checked with a completely different scanner and it concurs with Torque. I will try the drive cycle you suggest again and see what happens.
Thank you!

 

It will clear eventually. Run through the drive cycle. Then just keep driving if it does not click in. It could take hundreds of miles on this car.

 

I see the set & unset monitors in the OP...

 

What led up to having P1000? It doesn't just happen.

Continued driving may or may not set the one last monitor. Depends if there's a fault stopping it.

You may be allowed one unset for state inspection, so may not need to panic.

 

JagV8 - This is California, and for almost 2 years now we have not been able to have any unset monitors in order to pass smog. It became unset when I changed the throttle body and did a hard reset prior to starting the engine after replacement.

It has been months since I noticed the P1000 code, and I figured it would go away eventually, but it hasn't. My next smog test is due May 2017 which sounds like a long time away, but since it hasn't reset in 6 months of everyday driving, I am not convinced it will before test time.

What does "components" mean in Torque speak? How can I find where the fault is?

Thanks for the help!

 

Mine was hung up for quite some time and I did 200 plus miles. I did another reset and it cleared in 70 miles and three drive cycles. Make sure you have 3/4 tank fuel, but not full.

 

The 3/4 full thing is for EVAP - which is set OK so no need to worry.

The unset one is properly called Comprehensive Component Monitor (aka CCM) which is kinda long for a small screen.

Looks like Califonia allows a car of this age to have one unset monitor - but sadly it has to be EVAP. Normal states aren't so awkward but apart from moving...

I'm not aware that jag (or most car makers) detail the exact conditions for the CCM but it's what its name says (and it's a continuous monitor i.e. runs often). Sometimes you get a pending code, sometimes you can look at live data to figure something's out of spec. Other times it's a pain

See who has ideas (apart from moving!)...

Also, plan which jag tech to seek out if you need to, preferably an indy known to be good.

 

So, if I understand it, the system is with some regularity monitoring separate components and their functionality to make sure that all components are operating as designed? If so, it would seem that there should be some way to tell which component is "out of spec". Do you suppose the Jaguar factory code reader would break that down specifically?

I am motivated to resolve this issue, but don't want to just throw money at the problem with the hope of it going away.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

If it was me I would first do a hard reset. Negative cable removed and touched to the positive to set all monitors at default. Then I would perform the drive cycles checking after each time running the drive cycles. If it hasn't cleared in 3 attempts at the drive cycles I would then look for an independent Jaguar repair shop and have them locate the unset monitor and determine why it isn't setting.
Remember the fuel tank level is important in performing the drive cycles as is following each evolution of the cycles.
Give it a go at let us know how it works out.

 

I couldn't get the P100o to clear with an evap not ready and a CCM not ready, so I did a bunch of crazy drive cycle maneuvers, and then changed the purge valve with one I got on ebay.
The next morning, it said CCM ready, so I hauled ashes to the inspection station and passed emissions, even though it was still evap not ready.


I'll check tonight to se if the evap is cleared, but I got my sticker so I'm good for 2 years.

 

I agree with claudio413. I had the same symptoms and tried everything I could come up with. I put about 500 miles on the car but the P1000 code would not clear. Then I called my parts supplier at the Jaguar dealer and asked what emission part was sold the most. Without hesitation he said the purge valve. So I bought one and installed it and the code went to P1111 within a day.

 

Worth trying except it's not the EVAP monitor causing a problem.

CCM will be checking a bunch of stuff - some of which you can check using your brain (like temperature sensors). Beyond that and you could spend an age if you get but have to learn the factory tool.

 

Just so I,m clear on this:
To do a "Hard Reset" I disconnect the negative battery cable and touch the positive cable with it?

Is it a quick touch?
Will it spark?

Just want to be sure so I don,t blow the system on a 15 year old XJ8.

 

If worried, leave it off 5 mins before doing it. Key NOT in ignition (but leave doors unlocked and key in your pocket).

 

OK, new information. I would have mentioned this earlier, but I am just learning the Torque Pro software.
I am getting:

TID $0a CID:$11 NOT OK
Sensor period
Max 33,423
Current 65,423

This seems to be the only error, but I don't understand yet how this relates to the P1000 code or which sensor(s) they are referring to - Maybe 02 sensors?

I am going to hard reset, and reset the code (I know it won't go away for a while, if at all) and try again.

Thanks for the help!

 

I read that the purge valve was associated with the CCM, but it wasn't until I had difficulty filling the gas tank, as if the vent hole was plugged, and it would take forever to slowly add fuel.


In my Land Rover, this indicated a problem with the purge valve stuck shut, or a clogged charcoal canister. It's pretty common for the evap stuff to cause problems on British systems after ten years of use.

 

Scott,

Did you ever resolve this issue? I'm working on an X308 with the very same problem and the same Mode $06 Test ID and Component ID data.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don,
No, it never resolved, and I have done alot of driving since my original post. I got busy with work, so I have not been back to it, but will have to soon as my smog test is coming up! I almost suspect the ECU at this point, but have no data to support that suspicion.
Do you have any other ideas?

BTW, I did replace the purge valve just for the hell of it, but no difference.