1998 XJ8 (X308) Won't start!
I used the car to go into town, and it ran perfectly. Parked it on the drive, and the next day I went to start it and it just will not start, I now have a light on the dashboard saying 'Check Eng'.

When trying to start the car it sounds 'different' somehow, like it's not spinning over properly, all though it does turn over. It was very damp overnight, not sure if the car would recognise this and show a Check Eng fault?

Check Eng could mean a lot to look for, but is there anything obvious, known fault, common problem, and/or specific item I should be looking for such as a fuse, relay or anything else?

I know any suggestions may be a shot in the dark, this could be any one of hundreds of possibilities, but I would really appreciate any help with this.

 

Basics, check that all battery connections are tight,clean & dry. Make sure battery is properly charged, pull error codes from the ECU with a scanner.

Good luck

 

Thanks King Charles, I have had the battery terminal off recently so maybe that could be the problem. I have just recently acquired a scanner so will try that too..looks like the weekend is tied up!!

 

No problem, these cars are very prone to mischief with a less than optimal battery charge.

Godspeed

 

Standing-by for any codes you might pull, or you can check yourself here:
https://www.engine-light-help.com/ge...ght-codes.html
https://www.engine-light-help.com/ja...ine-light.html

In the meantime, while you are there, perform a hard reset (negative terminal disconnected from the battery, and connected to the positive for anything 1-30 seconds).
Most likely it will not help, but it will at least give you a clean start.

 

Yes, it seems significant that I did a hard reset just (very) recently for the first time, everything has been fine for the last 3 years I've had the car, it's never not started before. Is it your opinion I could have done something wrong (hence part of the title "what happened") when doing the Hard Reset? Thanks ericjansen.

 

Lots of threads on cars that won't start, but will crank (turn over). It's a 98: nikasil problems were once frequent (bore wash); old enough to have burned out the fuel pump (check fuel pressure at the schraeder valve on the fuel rail); it is now cold out, maybe the temperature sensor in the crossover pipe is not working (if it does not recognize cold temperature the ecu does not get a signal to enrich the starting mixture); maybe a bad ground due to dampness (pull the sticky that shows how to troubleshoot electrical problems); maybe it was bumped by another car during the night (inertial switch needs to be reset).

Lots of choices; good luck; and please let us know what you find. At last recourse, get it towed to a dealer or good independent.

 

Ok, now we're getting into the realms where I'm not sure what to do. Firstly I don't think the car has been bumped, it has been on the drive since last parked. I now have some questions following on from Jhartz comments if I may?
1. What do I check for with the temperature sensor, and I'm not sure where to find it?
2. Can I get a pressure tester to do the fuel pressure test, for somewhere like Machine Mart or?
3. How do I reset the Inertial Switch?

I'm really sorry if my ignorance shines through too much! I'm not used to doing a great lot topside under the bonnet, so all your help will be invaluable in the future I'm sure, even after I get it running again. I promise as always to post what I find to help others.

 

How does it sound? Not to scare you, but does your car still have plastic tensioners? (May-be they went bad and it's good the car does not start)

I would read error codes first, it may give the answer.

Good luck!

 

What were the codes that were causing the CEL? It would make sense to get those before you start poking at random sensors..

You can check fuel pressure by turning the car on for a moment, then pushing down on the schrader valve at the fuel rail with a screwdriver or something to see if it squirts out. If it doesnt then your fuel pump is bad. Put a rag around it when doing so. That should be towards the front of the engine, US driver's side.

Inertia switch is in the driver's footwell towards the outside of the car, kind of near where your dead pedal/footrest is. On US cars anyway, I'm not sure if ROW cars are different.

 

Guys, lets take it easy here for a moment.

It does not seem to me that euphonium is as technically capable (yet) as some as you are, and he might have no clue what you are talking about .
To be clear, this is in no way meant to offend either euphonium or any of you!

I propose to tackle it one by one .

To euphonium:
1. You can check the fault codes without further attempts to start the engine (which will also prevent possible damage in case something is really wrong).
The OBD2 reader will connect at the pos II of your ignition key.

2. On the sound you experienced earlier; was it more a high pitch, continuous sound without too much sound deviation when you turned the key?
Or came it with all kind of 'extra' mechanical sounds which you did not hear before?

3. Perhaps you can let us know the mileage of the car?

Eric

 

Yes run through the basics first, hence my post here.

 

Hi to all you helpful people. ericjansen is exactly on the button, I am inexperienced with modern-day electronics, give me a distributor with points, condenser, accessible plug leads and mechanical fuel pump any day!
I have only just got back my iCarSoft 930 Code Reader today (a friend nicked it to fix his Land Rover), so will attempt to find any faults tomorrow. I suspect, again as nearly all of you said, that there should be a code that should help, as, there is a light saying 'Check Eng' so a fault is being recognised somewhere?
As for the noise, I must clear this up by saying the car just sounds 'different', by different I mean the noise it usually makes when turning over isn't the same, maybe that;s because it's just not starting, I'm not sure. I suspect that the battery is low in power now too after turning it over and over, I think I'm right in suggesting that could be the difference in the sound of turning over?
I will check tomorrow and post what I find. So many thanks again to erinjansen, who always responds to my posts positively, and thanks to all you other kind people for your patience with my ignorance. If anyone wants to know about rear or front suspension, having completely refurbed every aspect of mine, I know just about everything about it, even down to making my own tools for removal of the front springs. I hope one day to have the same knowledge of these complicated electrics! Onwards & upwards....

 

If it were my car, I would start first by checking the battery connections and voltage, and then the codes. As is regularly pointed out on the forum, a low or failing battery can be the cause of many issues.

Since the battery is probably low now after trying to start the car, I would give it a good charge on a trickle charger first then check voltage before trying to start the engine. The voltage across the posts should be around 13.2-13.8V if the battery is good and took the charge.

Once (if) the car starts, the voltage at the posts should be around 14.2-14.5V if the alternator is doing its job properly and the battery is good.

As a side note, you mentioned everything has been fine on the car for the last 3 years, but you don't mention how old the battery is. There are many of the fellows here on the Forum who as a matter of convenience replace batteries every 3 years just to make sure they don't have a battery caused electrical problem. I personally don't do that, but I can't stress enough: A healthy battery is very important to having a reliably working X308.

 

After all the attempts to start you will probably be suffering from bore wash if there is fuel pressure at the rail. You did mention it sounding different when turning over. Could it be spinning faster?

Bore wash may not have been the problem originally, but it could be compounding the problem. A compression test is the best way to resolve the question.

 

If it still turns over (cranks), it is not likely a bad battery. Try this: put the gas pedal all the way to the floor, hold it there, and run the starter. This cuts off fuel flow which washes oil of the cylinder bores, but pumps oil into the cylinders (might fix a bore wash). If it then sounds like its trying to start, you have achieved compression, let up the gas and crank it again.

If you can change points, you can do this! For those who want to know what points are, ask your grandfather!

Another line of attack: search out each of the possible issues using Google search: like 'bore wash 98 XJ8' . . .

 

Ok. Here's what I've done (and found) today:-
First I tried for fuel pressure, I cranked it a few times, then pressed the centre of the Schraeder valve and fuel spurted out, so I now assume the fuel pressure is ok?
As advised, I also checked the Battery voltage ... 12.2 volts, so I am currently trickle charging it.
But before I removed the battery I connected my DTC unit, for those wondering, this is an iCarsoft i930. These are the results:-
Engine Control Module = No DTC's
Transmission Control Module = No DTC's
ABS Control Module = No DTC's
Instrument Pack = No DTC's
Drivers Seat Module = B1961 - Seat Drive, backrest out of range low
= B1965 - Seat Drive, fore/aft out of range low
Passenger Door Module = Uii35 - Ignition status not obtained
= B2182 - Remote door window glass
Passenger Seat Module = B1953 - Seat Drive, rear height out of range low
= U1135 - Ignition status not obtained
Driver Side Rear Module = U1135 - Ignition status not obtained
Passenger Side Rear Module = U1135 - Ignition status not obtained
Body Processor Module = B2334 - Column Drive, tilt out of range high
= B2330 - Column Drive, reach out of range high
= U1041 - SCP vehicle speed,signal invalid or missing data
Securit = U1135 - Ignition status not obtained
= P0100 Mass or volume airflow circuit/Airflow sensor
= P20e2 - Fault not in database

I've highlighted the mass airflow part as this seemed significant?

There was another 'noise' I noticed while the ignition was turned on. A whirring sound from the Throttle Body, and when I press the accelerator the 'noise' changes, could this be significant?

That's it for now, suffice to say it still isn't starting but while turning over it does seem to be trying to fire? Maybe the compression test is next, or anything else someone can suggest?

My last question for now, should the 'Check Eng' light normally remain showing on the dashboard until the car actually starts?

 

Pull your MAF sensor plug and make sure all contacts are straight and clean. Clean the sensor, itself with MAF Cleaner (CRC makes it here in the Colonies). Reseat it. Hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, crank it. My guess: bore wash. Second, bad temperature sensor, failing to enrich car on start up. The temperature sensor feeds data to the ECU through the MAF (Mass Air Flow circuitry).

 

If Jim's suggestions don't get it running, try a little oil in the cylinders on one side.

Most of the codes may be a result of low voltage. The noise in the throttle body is the stepper motor, and the check engine light will be on until the car starts.

 

I would not worry too much about the codes for now, test again when the battery is charged.