What the title says??

 

This has already been discussed, it won't work. The flip keys are a different system and if you were that desperate to get one working on the X308 the cost of changing everything associated with the key and alarm system would be more than the value of the car in the majority of cases.

 

What doesn't work ? The key and immobilizer ? Does the remote fob portion work?

 

There is a transponder in the key itself that has to mate with the car. Also the key is short for one cut on the flip key.

 

I'm not worried about the blade and the transponder as I know I can make that work. My concern is with the keys to lock and unlock etc.

 

Look for the modification as performed on Ford Mondeo keys in the UK. There are posts on UK car forums with pictures.

They move the glass transponder chip into the new flip fob and cut a new shaft. You can buy the shafts on ebay.co.uk.

The fob should not be bought in the UK as the frequency is different. The frequency in MHZ is the last 3 digits of the FCC ID on the back of your current fob. Your new fob needs to have the same last 3 digits in the FCC ID.

The key shaft is a 8 position TIBBE key. Very easy to decode if you do not know your own key code. Always have your keys cut by code as it ensures a more accurate duplicate. Some vendors will cut to order before shipping. Otherwise take it to a locksmith with your code.

The difference between the black master key and the green valet key is at the very tip of the shaft. The master key has the shaft tip cut back. They are otherwise identical and the car does not know the difference.

 

Good info!! Just what I wanted to see. Any detail on decoding my key?


LOL: they even call it the Jag key mod

 

Easiest is to look for your key code in the owners manual folder.

TIBBE keys are commonly available as 6 and 8 position.

Yours is an 8 position.

In each of the 8 positions, three cut depths are possible. No cut, half cut, full cut ... numbered as 0,1,2 or maybe 1,2,3. The code is recorded from the head to the tip.

There is a site maintained by a Jaguar key vendor in Australia who sells on ebay.com

Look for older Jaguar keys because he does not handle the new transponder keys. Say, 1990 XJ models.

Find the vendor, go to his site and there is a chart there explaining all of this so his customers can figure out the key code to send to him.

He does not sell the shafts because they all involve the transponder chips.

Knowing you, you're going to mill these yourself!

 

Here's what I found as far as T code reading:

How To Read Jaguar Tibbe 8 Cut Key Codes

 

Not the same site. But, same info.

 

Here's the plan.

I got 3 flip keys on the way from eBay. Hopefully they are 315MHz. Depending on how they are cut I'll try to "correct" them, if not I'll order new blades cut from ebay. Looks like there is plenty of outfits that will sell them.

Than, I'm planning to install a remote starter with a transponder bypass. I believe with that the key blades should work without the transponder If not I'll have to bother my buddy, a mobile locksmith for his transponder cloning skillz


NEW BULLDOG SECURITY STAND ALONE REMOTE START SYSTEM FOR CARS/TRUCKS RS82B | eBay


I'll keep you guys posted on the project

 

You never do it by halves do you?

If I was doing it, before even trying to cut a key, I would try to program the fob to the car just like a regular fob using the usual DIY programming instructions. You might as well do them all at the same time because all fobs must be present or the missing fobs might get dropped from memory. This is *absolutely* true when programming keys, so it may be true for fobs.

On the X308 it is possible to program additional key transponders as long as you have two good keys that are already paired with the car. This is better than cloning because each key is seen as a separate identity.

Conceptually, a flip key has three components to consider:

1. the key shaft
2. the transponder chip
3. the transmitter board

Note that this is the same as gluing your current key to your current fob.

The transmitter board operates *independently* of the transponder chip and provides the remote functions.

The transponder chip is only read by the transducer in your steering column for starting. It has exactly nothing to do with the remote. It only needs to be physically close to the transducer. You could cut a blank key with no transponder chip, hold your current paired working chipped key near the column, and use the new chipless key to turn the ignition. The car will start.

This is the long winded way of saying you may not need the Bulldog unit to achieve full operation if the new fob is fully compatible with the old fob. Of course you do not get remote start, but it is otherwise fully functional.

By now you know what the transponder chip looks like. That is immaterial to you because the switchblade fobs should already have transponders. But, if you were converting your current key, you could dig it out of the plastic head.

 

Well, I want the remote starter as I like to have the car warm up before I drive it. The Bulldog unit is just a remote starter that as an added bonus comes in with a built in bypass which consists of an antenna loop that goes around the ignition switch and a place to tuck away the transponder in the unit.

I am hoping that I can pair up the FOBs to operate the door and trunk and have the Bulldog do the transponder trick when I insert the blade into the ignition, that way I will not have to worry about the transponder on all the keys or even programing the keys to the car. Kinda like a cheap way of cloning

 

ok so I got the Flip FOBS.

All of them with FCC ID: NHVWB1U241. When you take them apart they all say 315 on the quartz chip.

I did the programing procedure.

1. Hold the flasher
2. Key to #1
3. Flash 4 times
(chirps and the led by the shifter blinks)
4.Tried the lock and unlock buttons and nothing... after some seconds the car beeps twice and the FOBs don't work.

I even took them to Vatozone since they have a machine that tests if the fobs work and they do.

The rear glass antenna suggests it's a 315mhz car.

Anyway, apparently SirJag got it working with his '01 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-remote-51426/ so maybe things are a bit different since mine is a '98.

Any ideas?

Anyone take a pic of the FOB internals if you have a 1997-2000 with a remote LJA2610AA. FCC ID. K8597T315 ?

 

The quality of the instructions varies.

You might want to post the exact sequence of actions you are taking.

There is a suggestion that the system needs to be programmed as many times as its capacity for remote fobs. 5 fobs? That is, if you have two fobs, program the first one once, and the second one four times for a total of five.

 

I don't think the FOB will work in a '98. The '98-2000 had a different FOB than the '01-'03 which could explain SirJag's success. I would guess the flip FOB would be more similar to the '01-'03 FOBs than the '98-2000. I bought a fob from a 2001, which has the same FCC # and frequency has my 2000 FOB, and it didn't work. It could not be programmed. I bought one from a 2000, and it programmed on the first try.

 

Ok, so I think I have more issues.

I finally got the car registered and insured and had a chance to drive it a bit today.

Looks like I have some problem with the security system as the locks gets stuck and don't open and close right. The lock in the trunk doesn't turn with the key at all. Also, I tried doing the coding procedure again today and the car stopped responding to the flasher sequence. A light by the shifter keeps on blinking constantly. Any ideas?