I am replacing the upper and lower ball joints on my 2001 VDP and i am wondering if anyone has any advise for removing the lower ones.

I have followed the JTIS instructions for removing the upper ones by cutting away 2 slots in the top of the ball joint to provide surface area to fit the press against. I was then able to press the old one out.

The lower ball joints have the same have the same problem in that the top of the ball joinst is the same diameter as the control arm so there is no surface area to press against

Does the lower ball joint have to be cut the same way as the upper in order to provide surface to press against? Is there any other way to remove the old ones?

I am also wondering if any heat should be used? I did the top one without any heat.

thank you for any help and guidance - this is very difficult to do as a car owner

Ed

 

thats why Jaguar calls them non serviceable and come as a arm assembly

 

But Jaguar do supply the ball joint order a MNC-1350AA it is a lower ball joint.

 

As I remenber, I used a piece of 2" pipe as a pushing tool. - no cutting

 

I am using a ball joint press which is a monster C clamp with various sleaves that fit around the ball joint. However the diameter of the lower ball joint is the same as the diameter of the control arm so ther is no place on the control arm to clamp against unless you cut slots in teh ball joint.

this is how the top one is done. I have read that many people have had the lower one replaced so hoping for some tips

I have changed all 4 shocks, sway bar links and bushings so far and hoping that this will resolve the suspension vibration

 

rocklandjag:
I haven't gone out and looked, and I used a shop press, but as I remember it was actually a 2" pipe coupling that I cut the internal threads out of (on a lathe) to support the control arm, then I pressed on the back of the ball joint. I will look at the ball joint tomorrow and make a picture if I can find the sleeve. I am not sure about how that "big c clamp" type of press might do the same thing.

 

thanks sparkenzap

it sounds like you were able to get the pipe to jsut fit over the ball joint and hold against enough surface of the control arm to press out the ball joint. The c clamp works the same as a shop press but uses the screw to create the force.

The C clamp is small enough that i will be able to press out the ball joint with the control arm still on the car. This saves taking the spring out which I don't want to do. I took the spring out once and it was very difficult to get back in place. I would not try it again without the tool that conpresses the spring from the inside.

How did you deal with the spring when you did the lower ball joints/

thanks,
Ed

 

ED:
How right you are. I tried three different spring compressors, all inside type before I gave up on the rent a tools and locally available compressors. I bought one from "tooltopia" that was about $275.00 that looked like the one Sears had in the catalog for $450.00. Even then it was a MAJOR PITA and scary to compress the springs to get it back together.

IEven with the spring compressor, the rebuid was cheaper than buying the control arms.

Boy does the XJR drive nice with new bushings and ball joints, though!!!

 

That spring is such a huge pita. I took the arm out and gave it over to my favorite shop with the new ball joint and just let them figure it out. 35$ later it was done hassle free.

 

When I was upgrading to Brembo brakes, I had to take the spindles off to tap threads in the caliper mounting holes and I did it without a spring compressor. I don't recall any difficulty with the spring for some reason. I do recall getting wacked on my forehead by the upper A arm when releasing the upper ball joint from the spindle. I was using the special tool borrowed from the Jag dealer to press out the ball joint from the spindle and I leaned in to check if it was coming out and WHAM, it did come out.

Maybe that's why I don't remember the spring being difficult.

 

^^ (laughing with you, not at you)

 

I used a jack to lower the spring after removing the bolts that hold the spring pan to teh control arms except I installed 2 longer bolts to guide the pan down and release the energy of the spring . This worked well enough and the spring did not attack me.

but, here we go, when i went to put it back the spring had no interest in in resuming it's slightly bent shape and I could not get the pan to come up anywhere near the bolt holes in the control arms. I finally cut the head off of 6 long bolts and used them as guides along with 2 jacks to get the spring and the pan back under the control arms.

I won't touch it again with out the right spring compressor - amazing energy in 3" of spring compression and deserving of respect

 

Imagine some of that energy transferring into your forehead. It drew blood and cursing, not necessarily in that order.

On the first spring, I used a chain through and around the spring to keep it from coming apart. Don't remember if I did that for the second spring that wacked me in the head. I would have been fine if I didn't stick my nose in there. I think I used a lever and jack to put it back together. I just don't remember having a hard time putting it back together.

 

ouch, that must have been scary. I won't have to touch the springs until I do the lower control arm bushings. Does anyone know if the Jaguar spring compressor can be purchased?

The good news is that I was able to remove the lower ball joint on 1 side and can do the other. I cut away the outer rim of the ball joint with a grinder until i was able to sit a sleeve on the control arm and then pressed it out. No heat and no hammers needed.

So, for me, the procudure is the same as the top ball joint for anyone who may tackle this. The ball joint press kit was $90 and is very heavy duty. A regular C clamp doesn't stand a chance

 

Using 6 - 10" 8mm x 1.5 threaded rods and tall adjustable high jack. Prior to starting job verify that all control arms and fasteners have clean and undamaged threads, Tighten in sequence to keep parallel to mounting surface. Verify spring is in proper orientation. Once all nuts are bottomed out, sequentially replace one stud at a time with original bolt, Loctited and torqued to factory spec. Proceed at your own risk. Any additional and prudent safety precautions are advised. Good luck.

I have not used this method to remove the spring.

 

Please note that appropriate spacers and nuts have been used as illustrated in the photos above