Slow crank fixed.
#1
Slow crank fixed.
Hi folks,
I have been traveling a lot and my Jag has been sitting for a week or two at a time. I was not surprised when it cranked slowly, figuring the battery was getting weak.
I swapped out batteries with another car of mine, and the problem persisted.
With the car running the voltage at the battery was 12.2 volts. Great, the alternator, I thought. But when I checked the false bulkhead connector, the voltage there was 14.3 volts. Hmmmm.
Yes, I'm another victim of the engine ground strap. 10 minutes of fiddling under the car had the ground strap cleaned up and problem solved! So if your Jag is slow to crank, check the voltages at the battery and the engine. I had 2.5 volts difference between the engine block and the chassis while it was running.
I hope this saves someone some time and money in the future. Thanks for all the helpful hints I've taken from this site.
I have been traveling a lot and my Jag has been sitting for a week or two at a time. I was not surprised when it cranked slowly, figuring the battery was getting weak.
I swapped out batteries with another car of mine, and the problem persisted.
With the car running the voltage at the battery was 12.2 volts. Great, the alternator, I thought. But when I checked the false bulkhead connector, the voltage there was 14.3 volts. Hmmmm.
Yes, I'm another victim of the engine ground strap. 10 minutes of fiddling under the car had the ground strap cleaned up and problem solved! So if your Jag is slow to crank, check the voltages at the battery and the engine. I had 2.5 volts difference between the engine block and the chassis while it was running.
I hope this saves someone some time and money in the future. Thanks for all the helpful hints I've taken from this site.
The following 4 users liked this post by avt007:
#2
#3
Rob,
Great diagnosis. I'm new to this forum, but, not new to electrical mysteries on cars and trucks. I've seen many parts changed and time/money wasted chasing what turned out to be a voltage drop problem like yours.
A voltage reading taken from the negative post to the negative battery terminal, body ground, and engine block can indeed save headaches. A cranking test can help find less extreme problems that can be repaired before they cause bigger problems.
Thanks for sharing,
Joe
Great diagnosis. I'm new to this forum, but, not new to electrical mysteries on cars and trucks. I've seen many parts changed and time/money wasted chasing what turned out to be a voltage drop problem like yours.
A voltage reading taken from the negative post to the negative battery terminal, body ground, and engine block can indeed save headaches. A cranking test can help find less extreme problems that can be repaired before they cause bigger problems.
Thanks for sharing,
Joe
#5
The strap on my 99 VDP naturally aspirated is on the passenger side from the frame rail to one of the transmission to engine mounting bolts.
If you look on the left side of the transmission in this picture you can see the strap dangling there between the transmission bellhousing and the frame of the car.
If you look on the left side of the transmission in this picture you can see the strap dangling there between the transmission bellhousing and the frame of the car.
#6
#7
I'm unable to completely remove the bolt that connects the ground strap to engine/transmission as the head of the bolt makes contact with the passenger side catalyst when attempting to remove it. Have any of you encountered this and if so, do you have any suggestions/tips on how I might be able to get this bolt out without having to resort to a sawzall?
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