I need to replace these bearings. Any insight as to what I might be up against?
Thanks

 

Greetings Frankie,

It's a bit of a pain, and it depends upon how stuck together things are.

Sometimes the halfshaft splines are stuck in the rear hub, and a puller is imperative. Once in a while you have to pull the axle along with the hub carrier assembly and press the halfshaft out of the hub.

Sometimes the lower fulcrum pin is siezed in the bearings in the bottom of the hub carrier. Careful pushing with an air chisel works.

Leave the handbrake components in place on the carrier: just disconnect the cable at the inboard end, and remove it along with the hub carrier. It's no problem to work around it while you change the bearings.

Press the hub out of the bearings, be careful to understand the arrangement of the spacer and selective washer: some people screw this up when assembling. You do not have to worry about setting up the bearing preload when assembling, so long as the spacer and washer are not torn up. If the ABS reluctor wheel is damaged, that sucks. It's expensive.

Oh yeah, that reminds me...when you try to remove the ABS sensor, don't try very hard. If it doesn't gently pull out of the hub carrier once the bolt is removed, go into the trunk and disconnect the sensor lead. Clip the tywraps on the lower wishbone, and remove the sensor and harness with it still attached to the hub carrier. Wrap it in a loop and tywrap it out of your way while you work around that, too.

Remove the bearings, drive out the races, drive in the new ones, pack the new outer bearing and install the outer seal. Press the hub into the outer bearing and invert. Fit spacer and selective washer, pack and install inner bearing, then inner seal, then ABS reluctor ring. Back in the car you go.

Use whatever kind of grease you want, so long as it is "hi temp for disc brakes". Some vendor's aftermarket kits come with a packet of it.

The axle nut is a little funky, it is a steel nut with a helicoil insert. By the book, you're not supposed to reuse it. If the helicoil is not intact, you had better not.

Obviously you have to remove the caliper and rotor: you can just tie the caliper up out of the way and not have to disconnect the hose. Just don't let the caliper hang by the hose, not a good plan.

I think that's it, ask if you need anything. I assume you got the wiper motor working properly? I put a new park switch in before I sent it, so for sure it is in perfect order.

 

Good Morning Andrew,
First off the wiper motor is working correctly.Thanks for the lead to the fuse.
I'm going to have to visit a couple of local garages to see if they have a press I can use to accomplish this bearing replacement.
I've removed the lower fulcrum pin for my first inspection and that's were the bearings are worn ,giving some play in the lower rear assembly (wheel).
I believe the selective washer and spacer will be reused?
Thanks Again!

 

Hey Frankie,

I thought you were asking about the hub bearings. The ones in the bottom of the carrier are the fulcrum bearings. They suck worse.

The problem is the races. The factory tool to remove them is an expanding deal with points, and screws onto the end of a slide hammer. There is not a good way to get behind them to drive them out.

If it's my car, and the races are not really wiped out, I put new cones in and forget about it...the crunched up old rollers is the problem causing all the play.

You can cut through the races to remove them. The first time I ran into this problem, here's how I did it: On the Series III, the hole is straight through and there is a recess behind each race so you can drive them out. So I took a die grinder and cut a small relief in the hub carrier behind the race, then used a bent drift to drive them out. It's not a straight shot, so it's still a pain.

There's no press work, and it really won't help much to remove the carrier from the car in my book.

 

Ok..now we are speaking the same lang. Sorry about the wrong info on the name and location of the bearings being worn. As I read your directions I new I needed to send more info.
Yes, it is the fulcrum bearing on the bottom of the carrier. The rollers are beat. There's no wear at all on the fulcrum pin. It's in good shape.
I'm going to take another look at it ..I think the races looked fine...I'd rather just put new rollers in.
Thanks Again!

 

No problem.

It's cheating a little, but it's not like having a rough old race for a bearing that is spinning. This is just designed to be a low friction pivot point...as long as there is no slop with the new bearings installed, you're done. Will the new ones wear a little faster? A little, maybe, but the big problem is when the get dry.

 

I'm going back in later this week. I have a dent puller and I will see if I can make some adjustments to it to remove the bearing. If not I'll try to pack it with new rollers but I'm not sure that will be easy either. Also found a crack on the rear support...time to weld.

 

hi guys, my first post so be kind to me.
started to replace the lower fulcrum bearings on my 1992 xj40 sov ,have removed the through bolt but dont know how to get the damaged bearings out!! do you have to knock the bush through? " All ideas welcome"
many thanks
NEV

 

Welcome to the forum NEV,

A picture paints a thousand words!



Drift the bearing carriers out evenly.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.

In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

hi Graham,
thanks very much for the diagram, I have no problem drifting the bearings out but do you have to knock the sleeves out first, and from which end. nev

 

It's a one piece sleeve (see item 13).

Once you've removed the Bearing races (item 15), the Pivot Pin Sleeve (item 13) can be tapped out.



(click on the image to enlarge it)

The Sleeve has to be removed to be able to get behind the Bearing carriers to knock them out.

Graham

 

thanks Graham,
great help!! any ideas how to get the bearings off, they seem to be stuck on the sleeve. The sleeve and the bearings rotate quite freely, will I just have to knock or grind them out. NEV

 

NEV,

Once the Spacer and Washer (items 16 & 17 in the above diagram) are out of the way, you might be able to tap on one end of the Pivot Tube to drive the opposite race out.

However, after all the years of use it could be so well seized on that you could end up having to destroy the race on one end to free it from the Pivot.

Graham