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  #1  
Old 03-01-2012, 12:54 AM
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Default 1990 xj6 dreaded "limp mode"

Someone help me??
got my 1990 a few days ago. ran great. bought it. 104xxx miles... The lightning bolt light and circle with x through it lights were on... drove it to a friends house and we drove it around the block a few times in sport mode and non sport mode. when i parked it i shut it off in drive as ive gotten used to manual transmissions... well before i turned it on I noticed that i needed to put in park.. i did, started it, and now i had transmission with x light... drove it around town and that light never shut off... I drove it home 30 minute 75+ mph drive.. when i got home i turned it off and back on and the light had dissapeared ... next morning started it and light was back on and its been on for past few days.... I dont beleive there to be any problems internally with my tranny,

Can someone please tell me all possible options to get my car out of this third gear limp mode??
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:56 AM
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also cpu read out flashes.... PAD, and fuse 5... only dummy lights are the ones described... car runs great... volts always over 13 and oil psi is normal...
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:11 AM
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sport mode dosnt turn on either
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:00 AM
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It could be an as easy as a solenoid or as major as overhauling tranny . I had mine solenoids replaced and that idiot light came back .
Once in a while it will get worse and you will see the light each time you start your engine and won't turn off
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:27 PM
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The light is on all the time now, I tried disconnecting the battery all night and the light was still there this morning... I checked tranny fluid its full and clean... Should I get a flush first? Can someone tell me what all causes this problem? I have been searching here and the Internet with no luck.. I hear there is a plug by tranny that can come loose but I don't see any plugs just a weird round thing. I also read adjusting the round thing can fix my problem?? How do I know if my tps is bad? Can it be that something on the firewall got wet? I read that, that can be a cause? Could it be that I need a new battery? Mine seems fine... Can someone give me a list of items to check?
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:52 PM
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sick:
First of all, don't panic. These are very robust transmissions, that have not uncommon electrical faults. There is a transmission warning light troubleshooting list in the drivetrain section (8.3) of the XJ40 E-Book from Jag-Lovers that is posted for your convenience in the "sticky" XJ40 FAQ quick links section of this forum. It really is very systematic. Go step by step and report back along the way. The odds of this electrical and not mechanical are high.

Happy hunting!
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:53 PM
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Hey Scott thanks. that jag lovers page is gone tho... Ive already been looking for it and I can't find it. Anyway someone can link me to it if it's been moved?
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:00 PM
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It says I need to register to see it but won't let me register because they are moving the sight
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:19 PM
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8.3 - Transmission Warning Light Troubleshooting ( John Ping, )


GENERAL TRANSMISSION INFORMATION

The ZF 4HP24E9 transmission is a strong and reliable, electronically controlled, four speed automatic transmission with lock-up overdrive. It is of German design and manufacture, which is used by several automotive manufacturers. The electronic control system is by Bosch. Although Jaguar utilizes other transmissions on XJ40 lineup, this design is the mainstay for 90-94 model years. It was also carried over for use in the 4.0 X300 models of 1995-1997. The ZF 4HP22 is quite similar mechanically, but it does not utilize any electronics for control purposes. The ZF 4HP24E9 has approximately 30% greater engine torque handling capacity than the ZF 4HP22.

The ZF 4HP24E9 has the following gear ratios: 1st - 2.48 : 1, 2nd - 1.48 : 1, 3rd - 1.00 : 1, 4th - 0.73 : 1 and Reverse - 2.09 : 1. With a differential ratio of 3.58 on the 4.0-liter engine equipped 90-94 model years, the XJ40 has a road speed of 29.2 mph per 1000 rpm in overdrive. The transmission has an electrical "kick down" switch located behind the accelerator pedal for throttle-manipulated downshifts. The transmission sump capacity for a simple fluid and/or filter change is approximately 3.0 liters (3.2 quarts). The entire system holds approximately 9.5 liters (10 quarts) which is approximately one liter greater than the ZF 4HP22 models. The correct fluid is Dexron III or improved upgrade.


TRANSMISSION WARNING LIGHT TROUBLE-SHOOTING AND DIAGNOSTICS

The transmission warning light is designed to "self-check" illuminate when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position. It should immediately extinguish (along with the other warning lights) a few seconds after the engine in started. Failure to turn "OFF" after an engine startup is an indication of an "electronic" problem with the transmission control system. It does not mean that a mechanical failure has occurred. If the transmission warning light illuminates while driving, pull over at the first reasonable opportunity, shut off the engine and immediately restart. If the light extinguishes on the restart, the problem was likely a control system malfunction (computer glitch). If the light remains illuminated, the transmission will likely default to "Limp Home" mode. In this operational mode, the transmission is electronically locked into third gear. It will not shift properly while in the "Drive" position or by manual J-Gate action. The vehicle is drivable in this condition, but the fault should be investigated and rectified as soon as reasonably achievable.

Note: This transmission has no pressure or temperature sensors. There are no low / high pressure and/or high temperature alarms. The transmission has only a single eight-pin connector providing the interface with internal solenoids or speed sensor.

The following is a step-by-step method for troubleshooting the problem. It's reasonably easy to perform and the cost is minimal. Copy and print this section of the manual so that you have the information at hand when you begin the troubleshooting process. Keep in mind that failure of the transmission control module (or transmission ECU by other names) should not be the first thought in your mind. Like most modern electronic control processors, they have a reputation for reliability and long-life. The fault is typically an ancillary component, but microprocessor failures are not impossible especially since these vehicles are well over ten years old. The following steps assume there is NO pre-existing check engine light illuminated.

Tools Required For Trouble-Shooting:

Typical hand tools for removal of upholstery / sheet metal panels to access the electronic rack and rotary position switch on the side of the transmission. Any good quality digital or analog multi-meter for performing voltage and resistance checks as suggested by trouble-shooting process.

Step #1

Re-boot the Transmission Control Module (microprocessor) by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes. Re-connect the cable, start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #2.

Step #2

Check the Transmission Control Module battery power supply fuse. It's typically found in the Left Side Fuse Box in position C2. Remove the five-amp fuse and visually inspect. Replace with a known good fuse of the same amperage if you have any doubt as to its integrity.

Start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #3.

Step #3

Check the transmission fluid level in accordance with the method described within the owner's manual. Ensure the fluid is at operating temperature by driving the vehicle for at least ten miles prior to the check (further in cold weather). Start the engine, move the gear selector through its range a couple of times to ensure the system is primed. With the engine idling in park, check the fluid level. The level should be between the minimum and maximum "hot" level indications. Add carefully (half liter at a time) to bring the level into the proper operating range. This transmission is reasonably tolerant of high fluid levels. If not certain as to the fluid level from dipstick observation, drain and refill the sump with the appropriate volume of Dexron III.

Re-start the engine and check for transmission warning light illumination, if still present, go to Step #4.

Step #4

Check the throttle position potentiometer. Throttle position is a major input for the control system. The throttle position sensor (located underneath the throttle assembly) provides this input value. On the 90-92 models, the TPS has its own potentiometer supplying a voltage signal to the transmission control module (TCM). On the 93-94 models, the engine management system provides the throttle position information to the TCM. In this case, only one of the two potentiometers is utilized within the TPS.

Locate the throttle position sensor electrical connector (in front and slightly below the throttle assembly) and remove it from its mount. While pressing inward on the side mounted barrel connector tabs, pull the connector apart to expose the male and female halves. Inspect the pins and sockets for corrosion and residue. Clean the pins and sockets with either a good quality electrical contact cleaner or a brake system/electrical parts cleaner. Thoroughly spray the pins and sockets to ensure they are clean and free of residue do not use any petroleum-based solvent, which leaves a residue or could attack the connector seal.

If you have a wiring diagram available, connect a digital multi-meter across the "transmission" throttle position potentiometer power input and wiper to measure component resistance.

Note: For 90-92 models, the "white with blue tracer" conductor is the throttle potentiometer power input. The "green with blue tracer" is the throttle potentiometer wiper. A failure of the throttle potentiometer on the 93-94 models will result in a "check engine light" being illuminated.

With the throttle closed, the resistance should be approximately 5.5k ohms. With the throttle fully open, the resistance will be approximately 250 ohms. Ensure the resistance change is smooth while the throttle is operated. There should be no "abrupt" changes in resistance as the wiper moves. Re-connect the halves of the TPS connector while ensuring good alignment and seating of the pins.

Start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #5.

Step #5

Inspect the transmission rotary switch located on the side of the transmission housing. Lift the vehicle in a safe manner; remove the debris shield located in front of the rotary switch (two 10 mm bolts). Initially, inspect the exterior of the rotary switch and its wiring for obvious defects. Remove the rotary switch cover (six T20 torx screws) to allow visual inspection. Do NOT touch the rotary switch mounting/locating bolts. Using a good quality electrical contact cleaner or a brake system/electrical parts cleaner, liberally spray the copper slides and runners to remove any corrosion film or dirt. Exercise the J-Gate shifter while cleaning to ensure all surfaces are sprayed. Re-install the rotary switch cover.

Further back (towards rear of car) on the transmission housing, locate the transmission electrical connector (round screw-on type) and inspect for any obvious damage to the connector or its wiring bundle. It is not necessary to remove this connector as it is quite difficult to re-install. Electrical checks can be performed on the transmission components from another more readily accessed connector.

Replace the rotary switch debris shield and lower the vehicle. Start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #6.

Step #6

Check and/or Replace the "transmission relay". This relay is a simple four pin, 1" cube style design common to XJ40s. The relay is typically located in the front passenger footwell region. Consult your wiring diagrams, or post to the XJ40 List for location information. Its not usually necessary to purchase a new relay immediately as you can substitute any typical four pin relay for this application.

Disconnect the battery negative cable do not forget this step as battery power is constantly supplied to many electrical / electronic devices. Remove the passenger side footwell upholstery cover. Remove the electronics and relay rack sheet metal cover.

Note: On early 90s models, the transmission control relay is mounted on the front of the passenger side climate control blower housing. You will need to remove the four (4) sheet metal screws that mount the "black" relay panel to the electronic rack. The lower two screws need not be completely removed as the panel has "slots" incorporated to slide over the partially fastened screws. Lower the relay panel to access the transmission control relay. It typically has a "purple" relay socket.

Re-connect the negative battery cable. But before replacing electronic rack panels, start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #7.
Step #7

Again, disconnect the battery negative cable.

Inspect and/or replace the transmission decoder module. This module is a solid-state device containing two integrated circuits on a printed circuit board. Its purpose is to translate transmission gear shifter position from the rotary switch to the Transmission Control Module. It takes input from the transmission rotary switch and converts it to a two level signal (ground or open circuit) for the TCM.

The transmission decoder module is located on the rear side of the relay rack panel in the upper right side corner. It is directly behind the Door Lock Control Module. It's a rectangular "black" module with a "blue" multi-pin connector. It is mounted with two small machine screws secured with 7 mm locking nuts.

Remove the electrical connector and inspect for obvious problems. It is also possible to inspect the circuit board by removing the module cover and slipping out the board. If no defects are found, you may wish to simply replace this part as its reasonably inexpensive (new $50 US, used $25 US). Re-attach the electrical connector to the decoder module and re-mount to the relay rack panel.

Re-connect the negative battery cable. But before replacing electronic rack panels, start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #8.

Step #8

Again, disconnect the battery negative cable.

Inspect and check the "Transmission Control Module (ECU). The TCM is located at the lower right region of the footwell area while the Engine Management ECU is located at the lower left. There is a schematic layout drawing on the electronic rack sheet metal cover providing component location. Typically, you will need to remove the front passenger side footwell climate control duct to access the TCM. There are no fasteners, just slip it off the black plastic outlet nozzle.

Disconnect the electrical connector to the TCM by lifting upward on it silver colored hasp. This action will pivot the connector off the TCM. Visually inspect and thoroughly clean both connector pins and sockets using a good quality electrical contact cleaner or a brake system/electrical parts cleaner.

The TCM electrical connector is a three-row type having 55 pins. Note that not all pin locations are utilized. Pin identifications are as follows: Viewing the connector in the horizontal plane with the wiring bundle on the right side, the top far right female pin female is #1 and continues across to the top far left female pin #19. The second row starts with #20 on the middle far right and continues across to the middle far left being # 37. The bottom far right starts with #38 and continues across the to the bottom far left being #55.

Electrical checks can be performed on the internal transmission components at this time if you have a quality digital or analog multi-meter. The three (3) internal solenoid valves should have an approximate resistance value of 34 ohms at 20 C (68 F). The resistance values can go as high as 60 ohms with the transmission at elevated temperatures. The main point is to verify a reasonable resistance value for each solenoid. The solenoids should have very similar resistance readings.

Resistance measurement points for solenoids MV1, MV2 and MV3 using the conductors provided by the TCM multi-lead connector are as follows:

Pin #19 (Solenoid Valve Power Supply) to Pin #5 (Solenoid Valve - Forward Drive)

Pin #19 (Solenoid Valve Power Supply) to Pin #24 (Solenoid Valve - 2nd)

Pin #19 (Solenoid Valve Power Supply) to Pin #42 (Solenoid Valve - Lockup)

Again, all three solenoids should have approximately the same resistance although this value will change as a function of temperature.

Resistance measurement points for the Pressure Regulating Solenoid using the conductors provided by the TCM multi-lead connector are as follows:

Pin #19 (Solenoid Valve Power Supply) to Pin #6 (Pressure Regulator Valve Solenoid)

This solenoid valve should have an approximate resistance value of 5-7 ohms. The value may be slightly higher with the transmission at elevated temperatures.

Resistance measurement points for Output Shaft Sensor using the conductors provided by the TCM multi-lead connector are as follows:

Pin #2 (Output Shaft Speed Sensor) to Pin #38 (Output Shaft Speed Sensor)

This sensor should have an approximate resistance value of 300 ohms (+/- 10%).

Check for proper TCM ground conductors by checking for minimal resistance between Pin #7, Pin #9, and Pin #26. There should be not significant resistance between any of these pins and a solid chassis ground.

Check for proper TCM power supply by performing the following voltage checks at the connector. Constant 12 VDC (battery power) should be supplied at Pin #39. Ignition switched power should be available at Pin # 1 when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position.

If any of the above resistance or voltage readings are abnormal or non-existent, problems are likely in the wiring harness or the solenoid(s) have failed.

Re-connect the TCM multi-lead electrical connector. Re-install all previously removed electronic components and replace the metal shield and upholstery panel.

Re-connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check if the transmission warning light is extinguished. If not, go to Step #9.

Note: The TCM also interfaces with the Engine Management ECU, but this type of diagnostics is best left to a franchised Jaguar dealer that has the necessary (proprietary) test equipment.

Step #9

Take your XJ40 to the Jaguar dealer of your choice and have the Service Department run a diagnostics check on the TCM. Franchised automatic transmission repair shops are NOT likely to have the necessary diagnostics equipment for your XJ40. If the dealer diagnostics indicates a major component fault, instead of purchasing a new transmission control module (ECU) from Jaguar (high expense) consider purchasing a good used component from a salvager or reputable used parts supplier.

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Old 03-02-2012, 02:58 AM
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Removed battery cable again. Didn't fix it. Checked fuse and fuse is fine. Checked trans fluid but it was too hard to read level so I'm taking it in for a flush tomorrow. Cleaned tps connection with no luck
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:59 AM
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I'll keep ya updated. Hopefully a flush helps. Thanks for posting that for me!
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sick620 View Post
also cpu read out flashes.... PAD, and fuse 5... only dummy lights are the ones described... car runs great... volts always over 13 and oil psi is normal...
On pre '93 models ''fuse 5'' indicates an ABS electrical supply failure , for later models it's fuse 2 i've just discovered .
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:00 AM
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Sick:
Real quick before I'm off to work... The transmission fluid level must be checked when the car is running and it is fully warmed up. You must then move the gear selector through the gears, put back into park, hop out and then check the fluid level on the dipstick. The fluid should be nice and red and translucent. If it is brown or smells burnt, it is time for a change. Personally, I'm not sure I would have a 'flush' done. There is another way to replenish the fluid at home, requiring you to let the fluid out of the tranny pan and then refill with the same amount through the dipstick tube - checking levels. If you do that three times, as the theory goes, all of the fluid will have been replenished throughout the gearbox. I'm sure you could find a posting for that in the archives either here or at JL.

The TPS is the prime suspect to my mind. The problem is not with the connection. The problem is with the 20 years of grime that oozes down INTO the TPS thus rendering it problematic. Also... the position of the TPS on the (underside) of the throttle assembly must be precisely calibrated. IF you have disturbed that connection (i.e. loosened the screws and moved it or taken it off), you will need to research the archives about how to put that back on properly. If it is not on properly, it will almost certainly throw codes or send the wrong signals to the gearbox.

Scott
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:41 PM
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Derek. Sorry that was a typo i ment fuse 2.. It's just the electronic seat belt fuse on my car... Scott that's how I checked fluid. It was light red and translucent but there wasn't a level on the dipstick because the whole thing was wet. I was going to go get a flush today but if my money is better spent on a tps I should do that I guess...
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:43 PM
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NO expert, but if the whole thing was wet, then wipe it clean, put it back, and recheck the level.

Generally gives a more accurate result.

What is the VCM indicating?
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:11 PM
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Lol that's how I did it translator. Vcm =fuse 2,pad
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:28 PM
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Wtf! Just got flush. Light went off.. Took car home and it was perfect the whole way home. Turned car off and back on and light is back :-(
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:11 AM
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If it was my car I surely would be focused on the shift linkage and transmission rotary switch. It is written about in an above post;

TRANSMISSION WARNING LIGHT TROUBLE-SHOOTING AND DIAGNOSTICS
Step #5

As also posted above, these transmissions are dependable and just about bullet proof.
It's the linkage from the shifter and the rotary switch that aren't.
From my experience the culprit has been the linkage from the shift to the outside of the tranny. If it is off by a 1/8th of an inch it will throw that code. If you were even to get a new rotary switch and the linkage was still off a bit, it would still limp around.

That is where I would put my energy.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:17 AM
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Thanks you guys I hate my jaguar right now but you guys make me feel better about it... Lol.... Is there there any kind of a how too for rotary switch/linkage? I don't even know what they do in relation to the transmission... Lol....
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:36 AM
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sick:
I wouldn't hate the car... these are the chances we take when we follow our hearts - and the purchase of a Jag is always a decision of the heart! Anyhow, consider all of the other 20+ year old pieces of crap on the road, and you'll feel a lot better about yourself.

Ok, if it were me... And if I was confident that I had exhausted all of the other, obvious, small, and inexpensive possibilities (such as the relays, fuses, and fluid levels), at this point I would involved a good, local, independent Jaguar-specializing mechanic. One time I also had to have some work done on the rotary switch, which my mechanic easily pin-pointed as the problem and fixed for a couple hundred bucks. It saved me thousands in frustration. Both the TPS and the Rotary switch require precise calibration, and either/both could be contributing to your problem.

But that's just me. Maybe I'm wimping out...

cheers!
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