That's the fuel tank sending unit you removed, and what you are seeing is in all likelyhood the situation I just described. You are much better served to get yourself the best manual you can afford, there will be alot of future events when you are stuck for helpand it ain'taround. The only thing worse is to get bad advice which leads you down the wrong road entirely.

 

Just to be clear I haven't removed or installed anything associated with the gas tank. The previous owner stated the car wouldn't start one day and they determined it was a fuel pump problem, so he paid someone to replace it but the car still wouldn't start. Eventually the guy got tired of it taking up space in his driveway and sold it to me. I had it towed to my house this week and have been trying to "diagnose" and locate the problem in the evenings after work this week and today.

So the situation you described may very well be what the problem is, but you might as well be speaking French, because I have no clue what you said.

I think I know what the fuel pump is and where it's located, and now I know what the fuel sending unit is and where it's located, and the fuel filter, and the various hoses going and coming to and from the tank. But I have no clue how the various components fit together inside the tank, as I personally have never had it apart.

Further I am only assuming that the only fix at this point is to remove the tank and replace all of the internal parts as well as the fuel pump.

I guess the parts could be fine and just not assembled correctly, but if I have it apart I figure I might as well replace with all new parts.

If I am on the correct path (or not) please let me know.

Oh and I'll be sure to buy the best manuals as recommended in this forums FAQ's

Thanks

 

I fully understand everything you have written about your XJ6. You are diagnosing the problem in a logical sequence, so you may not know the specific components but your head is screwed on straight. That is the most important assembly.

Now that you are looking inside the tank through the hole where the fuel tank sender locates, you can see a plastic cylinder...about 4" in diameter, 6" tall. That is the fuel pump module: it is a cannister, and the small electric fuel pump is inside that cannister. Jaguar only sells a fuel pump for your car as part of a complete fuel pump module. That's the cannister with the pump inside, and it's stupid expensive, like $500.

The pump inside is made by Walbro, and if you go to an auto parts store and order one supplied by Airtex, and maybe other suppliers as well, you open the box and find the exact same Walbro pump. You also get a new nylon sock filter, and some very good replacement instructions, and it shouldn't cost you much more than like $125. If it does, message me and I'll hook you up.

You will have to remove the fuel tank, and then remove the big plastic cap on top of the tank. The terminology for this capis the "evaporative loss flange". The module comes out of the tank through the hole in the top of the tank, and you open up the module to see the fun inside. The pump in your module now, if it was indeed replaced before you bought the car, is probably fine: it is just not plugged into the module lid so it's not pumping fuel out of the module.

One other point to raise: if there is much sediment in the tank at all, you had best clean it out very thoroughly. The nylon sock filter at the bottom of the pump will trap some debris, but fine silt inside the tank from corrosion will get sucked into the pump and clog the inlet screen or damage the new pump. This is another possibility as to why you have no output from a pump that has recently been replaced.

 

Thanks. Not that I'm taking it to a shop, but how many hours does a shop or shop manual say this will take to complete? Or a better question how much time should I expect this job to take?

Here's a link the the fuel pump I intend to buy;

O'Rielly Fuel Pump

Thanks again.

 

The E8249 is EXACTLY what I described. Using your brain gets you further than relying on others every time.

 

Well as no one want´s too listen to my Easy advices then just pull out the tank then but please check and se so the pump goes the right way.

You will newer know what the guy replacing it did with the wireing.

From my experiance as a mechaninic now for 8 years i´ve learned that you should newer trust on what someody else have done alwys check it yourself..

And alway do the most easy check first or else you will hate yourself after toring the hole car appart and found an easy problem.

God Luck finding the fault and please let us know how it went

 

I'm more than willing to check every option before I have to remove the tank.. I've read your previous post and on numerous occasions during this process I have looked at every hose, connection, wire, lead, terminal etc... that I've come across during the troubleshooting. Actually I've looked at them 4 or 5 times if not more.
The system as far as connections go (electrical and mechanical) is pretty dummy proof as if there are two connections on a fitting or wire they are different sizes, colors, or have a fusible link, etc...

So from my layman's perspective I don't see anyway someone could cross any of the electrical or mechanical connections. Now with that said, if you have a specific connection outside of the tank you recommend I check I am certainly willing to do so, but please be specific.

I ordered my manual and new fuel pump today, but I can return the pump if turns out not to be needed.

On a separate, but related issue, if I do remove the tank I'm sure I'll clean it while it is out and seal it with POR-15 POR-15

Do yo have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions on this matter?

Thanks!

 

jagga is absolutely right about checking for simple problems first, andI am absolutely right that the connections anywhere in the fuel pump circuit cannot be reversed without intentionally cutting wires or terminals and switching the connections.

If you don't see obvious signs of corrosion or sedimentin the tank,you have no further concern. I would consider the POR in extreme cases only, and would recommend having the tank professionally cleaned before "painting" it if corrosion is present. Most radiator repair shops offer this service.

 

Wouldn´t coat my tank whith anything have never seen cases of rust in the xj40 tank

One tip though if you plan to let the car sit still for long periods always have the tank full to prevent from condense

If there´s no possible to switch the + and - then there will be no idea to check but if there the slightest possibility the check it simply cut the wires and connenct them the other way shouldn´t be that hard and then you know that it´s OK if it didn´t solve the problem.

Then the next step is to take the tank out. Perhaps the mechanic that changed the pump used a differnet type of pump then the original one maybe he cut the wires and put them in the wrong way.

 

A couple of months ago, I had to repair a 1992 Jaguar XJS V12...twice. That is something I do not like to do, since I only get paid once.

The tank, fuel pump and all circuit connections are virtually identical to 1991-1994 XJ40. This XJS fuel tankhad a large amount of very fine black steel particles in it, from the tank corroding while it sat empty for who knows how long. I cleaned out the sediment, replaced the pump and filter, and placed two magnets inside the fuel tank to catch any steel particles I may have missed. The pump inlet was plugged two weeks later. I should have completely removed the tank and had it flushed the first time, but I presumed my quick cleanup and the addition of the magnets would be good enough.

Whether you coat the tank or not, it had best be clean inside. Most will not be corroded.

 

Problem discovered and solved. The last person to replace the fuel pump didn't install it properly or with all of the components.

Tank cleaned, all lines blown clean, new pump and filter installed.

And now that it's on the road and I've put a few miles on it I've created a punchlist of items that need attention;

Power antenna is not working
Key only unlocks drivers door
Brake job
Tuneup
Oil Change
Various vacuum hose leaks
Numerous rattles
A good cleaning and detailing

Thanks to all who offered advice and help with the fuel problem.

 

Well that's a good piece of news! Not much of a surprise, was it.

Once you've made up a parts list, please get in touch so we can help each other. The name is Andrew, I'm not sure who All is. Happy motoring!

 

Fun for you to have the car working.

Seems like you have some more worka ahead of you though..

By couriosity what was the problem with the fitting of the pump?

 

I'm no expert, but in laymans terms it didn't seem to be seated properly, cocked if you will. Also the mesh bag was missing

I used a new replacement pump from O'Reilly Auto Parts, part # E8249.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0

 

When it runs well, does it eventually stall? Does it run, and if you shut it off (like getting gas) will it not restart? Or is it one day on, one day off? Someone recommended a crank position sensor to me, but my problem was a little different, and after researching it, it sounds more like a solution for your problem.