Hey all-
I hate to do this but I've searched and searched till I'm blue in the face. So I gotta start a new thread.
Ill Put my question first, maybe there's a simple answer- Is there anyone who specializes in or is capable of repairing these window switches? I think mine has got one of the little black relays gone bad.
I was using the car one day and had run all the windows up and down with no problem. I put the car in the garage in the evening and ran the windows down as is my habit. I didn't notice any odd noises, no letting of smoke, etc. Then the next morning when I went to use the car again and wanted to close the windows, both of the left side would not move. Right side works fine. Nothing else on the car had changed- I checked. I checked fuse and checked for power at fuse. Both good. I then removed the fuse box and checked all around, removed all the fuses and checked them. I cleaned up all the fuse spades and used a points file to clean inside the fuse plugs. I then rinsed liberally with electronic parts cleaner and blew dry. Having read already, I got my heat gun and set it to low (750 f) and carefully passed it near to the circuit board in hopes of correcting any loose solders there (even though I already saw that power was good through to the plug at the switch). I got no visible change. I removed and disassembled (to my the limit of my comfort) the switch and did the same procedure. Still no good. I got another "guaranteed good" Used switch off eBay and get the same results with it. I suspect one of the relays on the switch circuit because I get no click like I do with the right side. Thoughts or punch lines? Thanks!

 

Hi Jerry,

Hopefully someone will chime in with the exact answer, but in the meantime I'll think out loud.

Look at the schematic, which is on pdf page 53 of the '93-94 Electrical Guide available for download here, courtesy of our forum member Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...ec%20Guide.pdf


Based on a quick scan of the schematic, I don't see any obvious common points for the driver and left rear windows that are not also common to the right windows. Their battery power arrives via different fuses and they are grounded at different points.

Within the Driver's Switchpack, all four windows share the same ignition switched ground, but all four receive power via separate fuses.

For the "UP" positions of each window's switch in the driver's switchpack, a parallel circuit connects to the CPU via a diode, presumably so the CPU knows the status of each window and can execute the "Remote All Close" function. Both of the rear windows connect to the CPU via the same pin.

1. Without thinking this through too well, one possibility is that the CPU has become confused. It might be worth lowering both right windows, then inserting your key into the driver's door lock, turning the key to the lock position and holding it to see if some or all of the windows close.

2. Another question that might shed some light on the problem is whether the left rear window will close via the left rear door switch.

Sorry I don't have any better ideas yet, but let us know the results of the two above tests.

Cheers,

Don

 

Jerry,
You need to look at the electrical guide or haynes wiring diagram to see if there's a relay in the circuit that needs checking .. So you have power from the back of the fuse box to the switch? If the switch is OK then it sound like you have a ground problem?


Larry

 

I forgot that little point- the left rear window will not operate from its switch, that's why I'm thinking its in the main switch at one of those relays on it. I have checked that ground post by the fuse box, and I can check voltage form the fuse through a bolt on the door. Thanks guys. I will look at the link tonight - alls I've got is Haynes . It's such a mixed blessing.

 

Keep in mind you can have power on both sides of the fuse but the fuse box can still be defective - you always have to check for power at the back (plug side) of the fuse box after the power passes through the fuse.

In almost every case the rear board is usually where the cracked joints are located.


Larry

 

Looked at the diagram. I see the relays are not what I was hoping. So tomorrow I check for good ground thru the proper wire and try the key-close function. fingers crossed... and thanks

 

Ok, finally got time to check wiring. The black ground wire in the 8 way plug has .3 ohms to the ground stud by the fuse box. There is 14 volts to the brown/ purple hot wire at the switch. The remote function at the door lock only closes the right Windows. I have a set of doors off a 96 xj that I would try the switch from but it is different. I can only conclude bad switch...... Larry do you have a one?
looking at the diagram again..... maybe the white / brown wire.......

 

Jerry, You tried another switch from ebay, already - it didn't make any difference, right?

I have all the switches, but you say you have a set of doors from a 94 and it's different - maybe mine are too, after all the parts car is a 94 also ...

You say the left rear window won't operate from the left rear door switch either?

I'm not sure how these windows are wired but it does seem odd that neither switch will operate the left windows - btw, I've never tried raising all the windows with the door lock - I'm not sure that the 94 has that function?

I guess what I'm trying to say is - are you sure you need another switch?


Larry

 

I'm checking things still. The spare doors are 96 , so it was wishful thinking really. The white/ brown "switched ground" leads directly from the switch to the ignition switch and has less than 1 ohm in it, but it's same with car on or off.... I don't understand.
I'm not "Sure" I need another, but I don't see any other option. I agree with Don that there doesn't look to be any point that is common to only the left side other than the fuse, at the same Time I can't find any other faults. I will poke at the fuse box again. There is nothing else New wrong ...
If this car wasn't so wonderfully..... Red.....who knows

 

I'm no electrical guru but it does seem odd that the back door switch doesn't work either?

Larry

 

I have to admit this door lock close thing is new to me, I guess I have to find the old owners manual and read up on this. Though I admit I almost never roll my windows down.

That being said and I hope Im just not missing something posted. It does seem odd that both windows stopped at the same time, but I have seen some odd things in my day. It is possible that both died (unlikely but possible).

Have you tried starting with the motors and working backwards?
Can you make the windows go up and down by bypassing the switches?

I would isolate the rear window and make sure it goes up and down at the rear door, then same with the front, that rules out the motors and wires to them. Then try the rear window from the from the front switch. I don't have a schematic in front of me but I have to assume thats possible.

I need to pull my switch anyway as the R/F window switch on the master is sticky and maybe Ill see something.

Joe

 

That is my plan for tonight. I will open the rear door and start there with that motor. I agree it's odd but it's been in my head too that maybe the same guy built both the switches on a Friday which happened to be his last day before vacation and they just got programmed to break At the Same Time. Thanks

 

All right. Here's today's findings. In the left rear door I can Hotwire the window motor . It works happy as can be. I ran a jumper from the B1 fuse cavity and ground to the post right there to help eliminate doubt. I powered it at the switch plug. So the wiring is good to the motor. Also my Meter tells me I have 12 volts at the brown/ grey wire again in the switch plug. The same conditions are in the front door. I want to suspect the fuse block but the power is in the doors....... Again ..... Switches??????

 

Hi Jerry,

I just took a peek at the schematic but it's late and my eyes are crossing. I can't remember if you've checked the CPU electrical connectors for corrosion or signs of water ingress, but that's one issue that might be worth ruling out.

Cheers,

Don

 

Sheesh. Now I gotta unhook the battery again. At least I didn't turn the radio back on yet. Although the I.D. shows both rear windows up signals going to the CPU in the same wire. Curiouser and curiouser. Thanks Don

 

Just an additional comment- the problem is not yet fixed. I have not had time. I need to research for sources to repair the switch. If I find any I will pass along since this is such a problem- I am 2 for 2 now. I also still need to check the cpu per Dons suggestion. Again, I been busy....

 

Jerry, have you fixed your window problems? If not I may have some info for you.

 

Drumroll please!
Here it is! The windows are fixed! Finally! And the surprise? None at all. Larry was right saying it was the back panel in the fuse box. I am humbled yet again by you guys' accuracy. I decided Sunday that the windows would work or the roof was coming off. I took the fuse box Back Out Again and tried my little pen-solder gun- cheapest thing ever, and found that it would not heat enough to melt the solder. Ran to the store and got a New Good solder Gun, touched it to the contacts and terminals in question and installed. Works just as if it was supposed to. By the way, it turns out the eBay switch is faulty too, so that was a loss. At least it was cheap. Thanks Larry, Don. and Joe.

 

Good news Jerry!


Larry