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Not at home of course so limited test stuff on hand.
Tried swapping relays, cleaning relays, checked all fuses. Rev counter registers about 200 rpm on cranking and seems like she's starving for fuel.
Cracked open the fuel rail and cranked, no gas appeared. Decided to call my buddy with a tow truck and have her taken back to my place.
He says sometimes if an in tank fuel pump gets stuck you can free it up by giving the tank a few whacks while someone cranks the engine ..skeptical, I go along with the idea and we remove the spare and all the other stuff in the trunk.
Whack whack and lo and behold she starts, but quits when I shut her off and try again ....so, whack whack again and I try going around the block.
I start her again after a successful trip around the block and then drove her home, about 4 miles in stop and go traffic with the towctruck following, just in case.
This Fuel Pump Circuit Test Procedure, courtesy of Bryan N at the Jag-Lovers forum, has worked for me every time I've needed it (at least 3 times):
XJ40 - ‘93 / ‘94 Fuel Pump Circuit Test Procedure - Issue 2
[Assuming that you have dash lights with the ignition 'ON']
1) With ignition OFF
2) Remove fuel pump relay (black base, right rear corner
trunk above BFM)
3) Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/yellow) of the fuel
pump relay base from fuse C6 in right fuse box?
4) If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/yellow) and pin 87 (Blue/red)
in fuel pump relay base - does the pump run continuously?
5) If pump does not run, fault is in the wiring / connector
between fuel pump relay and pump
6) If pump runs, suspect fuel pump relay is defective.
7) Replace / re-fit fuel pump relay
8) Remove oxy sensor heater relay (yellow base on firewall)
9) Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/pink) of the oxy
sensor heater relay base from fuse C4 in right fuse box?
10) If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/pink) and pin 87
(Blue/purple) in oxy sensor heater relay base - does the
pump run continuously?
11) If pump runs, suspect oxy sensor heater relay is defective
12) Replace / refit oxy sensor heater relay
13) Remove EMS main relay (black base on firewall)
14) Do you get 12 volts at pin 30 (Brown/yellow) of the EMS
main relay base from fuse C1 in the left fuse box?
15) If yes, jump pin 30 (Brown/yellow) and pin 87
(White/brown) in EMS main relay base
16) Try this both with the ignition ON and the ignition OFF
17) Do you hear the fuel pump give its half-second priming
burst? [You can repeat this many times and you (or an
assistant listening at the open filler neck) should hear the
half-second 'whirr' of the pump every time you jump pins
30 and 87 of the EMS Main relay base]
18) If yes, suspect the EMS main relay OR the EMS ECU is
defective (the latter, very unlikely but possible)
19) Turn ignition OFF
20) Replace / re-fit EMS main relay
21) Remove Ignition 'ON' relay (on a '94 it should be in a
white base on the firewall but on a '93 it may be buried
under the dash behind the radio)
22) Do you have battery voltage at pin 30 (Brown) of the
Ignition 'ON' relay base?
23) If yes, temporarily jump pin 30 (Brown) and pin 87
(White/pink) in the Ignition 'ON' relay base
24) Do you hear the half-second priming burst from the pump
each time you jump those pins in the Ignition 'ON' relay base?
25) If yes, suspect the Ignition 'ON' relay is defective or
fuse A5 (fuse A3 on ‘94 models) in the left side fuse box -
but if either is defective, you will get NO dash lights when
you turn on the ignition.
26) If when you jump pins 30 and 87 of the Ignition ‘ON’
relay base you do get dash lights but you do not hear the
half-second priming burst from the fuel pump suspect the EMS
Main relay.
The most recent time I had a fuel pump-related sudden no-start, following Bryan's procedure led me to a loose and arcing electrical connector in the fuel pump power circuit between the relay and pump. The connector is behind the battery on our '93 and your '94 may have the same:
Also, if you haven't had to do it already, replacing the fuel pump is not as hard as it sounds. It's just a matter of disconnecting all the stuff that's in the way of sliding the fuel tank back for access. I had to do it in my mother-in-law's garage while our son was driving our '93 at college, so my photo album is not as complete as I wish it were, but it will give you the idea:
So one thing I failed to mention in the no-start scenario - when we did finally get it started and running enough to drive it home, the hood was up so things were a bit louder.
I noticed when I revved the car it made a heckuva racket from exhaust manifold - or at least from under the heatshield, so I guessed I had either a cracked manifold or the exhaust gasket had gone, so today I removed the EGR valve and associated plumbing to get the heat shield off.
Taking a look at the manifold, there were some black stains between the two and the rear front lower stud nut was missing. It may have sheared off at some point but it looked to me like it had been removed with a cutoff wheel sometime before my ownership ... come to think of it she's always been a little bit noisier than she should have been from the start ..I should mention that this is the first time I've removed the heatshield to take a look. I'll take a closer look but that smooth finish and all the bluing sure does look like a cutoff wheel to me.
broken exhaust stud and missing nut
Anyway, looks like I have my work cut out for sure, I've got to get the exhaust manifolds off and fit new gaskets and figure out a way to get that stud out of the head.
I figure I'll get that job done first and then check out the fuel pump/relays etc.
Definitely looks like the work of a cutoff wheel to me, too.
I've had success with a few different stud removal methods. Penetrating oil on the stud threads left overnight will help.
Method one, if you have enough remaining thread length, is to install two nuts on the stud and tighten them against one another ("jam" them). Then use a wrench on the inner nut to turn out the stud.
If you don't have enough thread length for two nuts but have access for a file or grinder, you can make six flats on the end of the stud until it will fit tightly in a socket (8 or 9mm maybe), then use the socket and a breaker bar and ratchet to turn the stud out.
If the stud is really short, you may be able to drill a hole in it and use a bolt extractor (a right-angle drill or attachment might be necessary).
Other methods I haven't tried but which could possibly work would include cutting a slot in the stud and using a screwdriver (doubtful on an exhaust manifold stud), Vise Grips/Mole Grips pliers (probably awkward and difficult to get tight enough), or a plumber's basin wrench (which might possibly work if the stud isn't seized too badly).
I'll be curious as to what method you use, but however you do it I hope it's an easy job!
Well thanks for the tips Don, all good strategies!
Once I got the manifold off I thought there might be just enough thread left to go with a locknut, even if it meant grinding down the second "locking" nut but try as I might, I just couldn't get the threads started - maybe if I'd removed the entire manifold I'd have a chance but I didn't do that
Here's what I was faced with:
broken exhaust stud on rear manifold
So I thought I might as well TRY to shift it with a vise grips, but I wasn't hoping for much ..but whaddaya know, the stud moved a smidgin!!'
Not much room to work so I could only shift it about 10 degrees with each clamp-on/clamp-off but eventually and with only one scarred knuckle, out she came!
stud removed with vise grips
The gaskets were a bit of a surprise, just three layers of stainless - even though the gasket showed signs of blowing at the bad stud, it doesn't look deformed and even though I've ordered some new ones I think this one could be cleaned up and reused? What do you guys think?
Some folks recommend smearing exhaust cement on these suckers before re-installation, what say you?
btw, none of the exhaust nuts were particularly tight or hard to remove.
Anyway, that was enough BS work for one day!!
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; 08-22-2015 at 12:11 AM.
Reason: more
If the new gaskets are pricey and you can return them, then by all means clean and reuse the old ones. On the other hand, if the new gaskets aren't too expensive, I'd personally use them, since the raised beads around the openings tend to flatten a bit over time, so why not have a nice fresh seal and be done with it? Your call.
I would personally not recommend exhaust cement on the gaskets. I used it successfully to repair a stripped EGR pipe fitting on one of our manifolds and it has held for at least a decade, maybe 15 years, so if you ever need to get the manifold off again, it may not be so easy if you've cemented it on....
If the new gaskets are pricey and you can return them, then by all means clean and reuse the old ones. On the other hand, if the new gaskets aren't too expensive, I'd personally use them, since the raised beads around the openings tend to flatten a bit over time, so why not have a nice fresh seal and be done with it? Your call.
I would personally not recommend exhaust cement on the gaskets. I used it successfully to repair a stripped EGR pipe fitting on one of our manifolds and it has held for at least a decade, maybe 15 years, so if you ever need to get the manifold off again, it may not be so easy if you've cemented it on....
Cheers,
Don
Hi Don,
Well the gaskets show no signs of having *any* remaining ridges, they are flat as pancakes ...the new ones aren't too bad pricewise, (SNG Barrat, no affil) about 11 bucks a piece + the dreaded shipping, prob around $20 and even tho priority mail, will take weeks to arrive.
Reason? Canada customs is staffed by one solitary worker who doesn't really like his/her job.
So car will be out of commission for a while, bummer indeed.
The alternative was the Jag dealer in town who quoted me over $220 for the pair of gaskets. Not surprising, as the same dealer tried to sell me an A/C o-ring for $32 a couple of years ago.
The studs/nuts/washers weren't available at SNG, had to be ordered from UK (I hear the nuts are not even available in the UK) and wouldn't arrive at SNG till Sept 3rd at the earliest, so even if they shipped out the same day it would be almost the last week of Sept before I had the parts so basically she'd be off the road until October. All for the sake a few nuts and bolts!
I looked at the nuts and they have some odd code/markings - no doubt they are something special?
Reason? Canada customs is staffed by one solitary worker who doesn't really like his/her job.
I think his/her cousin works in the U.S. customs office...
I looked at the nuts and they have some odd code/markings - no doubt they are something special?
I can't imagine that they are any more special than fasteners used in the rest of the exhaust system (and aren't the best of those just standard stainless steel?). Assuming the studs are a standard metric thread, I would be tempted to just order some studs, washers and nuts from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) or the equivalent Canadian industrial supply. I don't know what thread your studs are, but I just checked and McMaster stocks 8mmX1.25 studs 25mm and longer. A 50mm long stud is just USD $2.64.
Worst case, you could use a piece of threaded rod cut to length and chamfered on each end, or a screw/bolt of the correct length....
Damm,sorry to hear that Larry,I hate being without at least one Jag.
I went pokin thru my tickle-trunk full of odds,no shortage of hardened 8mm nuts,no studs tho.
You could bolt things up on a temporary basis in til the arrival of new goodies,but I did get to thinking that an exhaust leak would be read by the o2 sensor as a lean condition,and fatten the mix in response?
I think his/her cousin works in the U.S. customs office...
I can't imagine that they are any more special than fasteners used in the rest of the exhaust system (and aren't the best of those just standard stainless steel?). Assuming the studs are a standard metric thread, I would be tempted to just order some studs, washers and nuts from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) or the equivalent Canadian industrial supply. I don't know what thread your studs are, but I just checked and McMaster stocks 8mmX1.25 studs 25mm and longer. A 50mm long stud is just USD $2.64.
Worst case, you could use a piece of threaded rod cut to length and chamfered on each end, or a screw/bolt of the correct length....
Cheers,
Don
Hi Don, the studs have a tapered shoulder that allows them to harden up on the head without bottoming out, I believe they are hardened so prob not stainless steel and afaik they are 11mm and quite brittle according to the guys at Xj40.com. They snap quite easily if over-torqued, hopefully like mine did (with a bit to grab onto) and not down inside the head
I'm going to try a local Jag guy to see if he has a spare, or possible score a set of hi-performance studs from a header shop, we'll see on Monday as Sat afternoon not much is open ....plus I'm without wheels and don't fancy skateboarding around town at my age!
Oh Boy Jim - sorry to put you through all that! Just got back from town, went to JB Auto Parts and he pulled me out a generic 10mm coarse-on-both-ends exhaust stud that matched the busted one and even though the diameter of both is 11mm, I guess studs are measured from the inside dia because the stud came out of the 10mm box. So I learned something today!!
Hold off on sending me the bits till I pull the front manifold, might as well check that gasket/stud setup before I button it all back up, eh? I'd hate to find a similar situation up front and have to go through it all over again.
The guys at JB auto said all the kids who fit headers use hi-temp silicone at the manifold and they sell them the RED permatex (sensor-safe) as a sealer. They said I should be all right with the old gasket and the red stuff but I'm still waffling on that one.
Ordered a new fuel pump this morning, again, might have to wait a bit to get that puppy. Oh well plenty of time to figure how to get the tank out - too bad she's full!
I'll be in touch about the studs/nuts/washers by Monday for sure.
btw, called Tomcat auto wrecking in Langford this a.m., seems like he just got 2 XJ40's in the yard - I might breeze over and take a look at them when I get rolling again.
08-20-2015, 08:54 PM
no start then sort of OK but ...
I think it was the racing from your place that got me into this mess in the first place
