Remote keyless entry fob
#81
03-26-2014, 09:45 PM
Leaper fitting
#82
03-29-2014, 06:38 PM
ALL
about the frequency....I took the receiver/microprocessor unit apart and found the receiver card. IN the lower right hand corner of the card was 303.875...hmmmm?
So I turned on the SIG Gen with a modulated a 1khz signal output at 1 db . I then connected the O-Scope to the Decoder to pin 14 and VIOLA .....there is the square wave -1khz signal. . with a bandwidth of only 4Mhz wide at 3db down from center frequency.
It appears these cars have a Number of frequency's ...all tunable thru an LC coil .
they do not have a vast amount of codes. IE... there are 8 dip switches with only 2 positions available for code ...if you do the math 2x8x8 = not at lot. so alter the frequency and now you can do it all again.
I am sure the general consensus was 315 US and 433 other places. I have seen 318 on the back of several Fob's for sale in the US. The picture of the inside of another fob on this forum showed 334...on the actual "resonator. That IS the center frequency of the receiver. SO if you want to KNOW the frequency of the fob to buy, open your receiver box ,remove the big green card and there is your receiver card with the freq silkscreened on it. AND if you buy a fob that is not the same , don't panic ... that's what the LC coil does for you. adjusts to your fob freq.
This is old technology... I am going to experiment Tuesday with changing the freq thru the coil to match a Princeton Technology Fob 315MHz and then when that works
I will see how far up I can take it. I have some fobs at 360MHz.
that was probably a little over the top huh?
about the frequency....I took the receiver/microprocessor unit apart and found the receiver card. IN the lower right hand corner of the card was 303.875...hmmmm?
So I turned on the SIG Gen with a modulated a 1khz signal output at 1 db . I then connected the O-Scope to the Decoder to pin 14 and VIOLA .....there is the square wave -1khz signal. . with a bandwidth of only 4Mhz wide at 3db down from center frequency.
It appears these cars have a Number of frequency's ...all tunable thru an LC coil .
they do not have a vast amount of codes. IE... there are 8 dip switches with only 2 positions available for code ...if you do the math 2x8x8 = not at lot. so alter the frequency and now you can do it all again.
I am sure the general consensus was 315 US and 433 other places. I have seen 318 on the back of several Fob's for sale in the US. The picture of the inside of another fob on this forum showed 334...on the actual "resonator. That IS the center frequency of the receiver. SO if you want to KNOW the frequency of the fob to buy, open your receiver box ,remove the big green card and there is your receiver card with the freq silkscreened on it. AND if you buy a fob that is not the same , don't panic ... that's what the LC coil does for you. adjusts to your fob freq.
This is old technology... I am going to experiment Tuesday with changing the freq thru the coil to match a Princeton Technology Fob 315MHz and then when that works
I will see how far up I can take it. I have some fobs at 360MHz.
that was probably a little over the top huh?
Last edited by Greykitty; 03-30-2014 at 07:23 AM.
#83
03-30-2014, 08:29 AM
Keyless entry
#85
03-30-2014, 01:58 PM
#86
03-30-2014, 02:43 PM
lol myself when I wrote that.
that was the desired result.... The thread has gone all over the map.
KC7 , That 2600c is a great analyzer! they still go for about 3500.00 . You also have a very cool hobby to own a Motorola.
I have an ICOM Comms analyzer. Nice piece of equipment to have around.
Side note ...hope to get my PCB Prototyping machine up and running tomorrow. 24K paperweight as it sits now.
that was the desired result.... The thread has gone all over the map.
KC7 , That 2600c is a great analyzer! they still go for about 3500.00 . You also have a very cool hobby to own a Motorola.
I have an ICOM Comms analyzer. Nice piece of equipment to have around.
Side note ...hope to get my PCB Prototyping machine up and running tomorrow. 24K paperweight as it sits now.
Last edited by Greykitty; 03-30-2014 at 02:56 PM.
#87
03-30-2014, 09:40 PM
I would love a prototype cutter. I have build a record lathe (did not produce the quality I had hoped) and I am also into Lasers and laser projectors.
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Cinny65 (06-02-2014)
#88
09-22-2015, 08:02 AM
Acquired a 1989/90 Daimler XJ6 4 years ago. Both DBC 11494 remotes were not working and neither were the locks synchronized. Thus, the alarm system was never used. A few days ago discovered battery was flat so connected car with cables to another vehicle. It started with no problem and I drove it several yards to be closer to an electrical outlet to charge the battery. When I subsequently opened the car it was making a very strange continuous noise and when I tried to start the engine, the alarm signal went off -- first time in 4 years, although I have removed the battery on a couple of occasions. I still can't open the car door or trunk without the alarm going off.
Have been scouring the forums and internet for a solution -- so far without success. Now I know the alarm system works I have been trying to determine whether the remotes still function but can't figure out how the batteries fit and am baffled by the comment that only two are required. With only two they just rattle around and cannot therefore possibly remain in contact with the two sets of prongs in the remote.
The alarm system, which is a Gemini, was installed at the dealership but the remotes have the "growler on them and are identical to the DB11494s in the diagram.
Would greatly appreciate any guidance anyone could provide.
Have been scouring the forums and internet for a solution -- so far without success. Now I know the alarm system works I have been trying to determine whether the remotes still function but can't figure out how the batteries fit and am baffled by the comment that only two are required. With only two they just rattle around and cannot therefore possibly remain in contact with the two sets of prongs in the remote.
The alarm system, which is a Gemini, was installed at the dealership but the remotes have the "growler on them and are identical to the DB11494s in the diagram.
Would greatly appreciate any guidance anyone could provide.
#89
03-09-2016, 07:52 AM
Junior Member
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Location: Breda, Netherlands
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Hello Guys!
I'm very sorry to drag this topic back from it's grave but i'm going to try anyway!
We've got a Daimler 4.0 from '94 which still had the infrared alarm kit. I bought an original Jaguar RF remote with frequency 433.97 and i've been looking for a way to make that puppy work. So far the only valid option i could find is this board that Greykitty has been describing, i saw some pictures and it looks fantastic!
Could it still be possible to order it? or have the original cad schematic? i'm an complete 0 if it comes to designing electronics, i've got some basic understanding and i'm hoping to find a way to make the original remote work with an aftermarket or seperate designed board. I'm very happy to pay for it and for the effort! anything better than finding a matched IR remote and receiver
I'm sorry guys! didn't want to be rude but i might as well give it a go and ask
I'm very sorry to drag this topic back from it's grave but i'm going to try anyway!
We've got a Daimler 4.0 from '94 which still had the infrared alarm kit. I bought an original Jaguar RF remote with frequency 433.97 and i've been looking for a way to make that puppy work. So far the only valid option i could find is this board that Greykitty has been describing, i saw some pictures and it looks fantastic!
Could it still be possible to order it? or have the original cad schematic?
i'm an complete 0 if it comes to designing electronics, i've got some basic understanding and i'm hoping to find a way to make the original remote work with an aftermarket or seperate designed board. I'm very happy to pay for it and for the effort! anything better than finding a matched IR remote and receiver I'm sorry guys! didn't want to be rude but i might as well give it a go and ask
ALL
I pulled the schematic last nite. To answer the question about full functionality with this mod. Nothing changes with this mod. The car doesn't even know you have changed ANYTHING. The receivers input ...instead of IR , is now RF.
The REMOTE Panic function (from the FOB)is not an option as thought.
The ONLY functions were/are LOCK and Unlock. These commands close and locks everything as the original FOB did. THE ORIGINAL fob did not look (from pics of the original) to have a Panic function either. Panic lock is initiated from the center console toggle switch.
I will order several boards in the next couple days , and use up the bulk parts I bought for the original prototype to fabricate the new RF BOARDS. I will need for anyone that wants one,. to Chime in with their request. This is to keep The initial Board cost down if there is a quantity ordered.
First things first:
YOU NEED To check that YOUR system will function properly ( this verifies that your system will work if you were to even have a FOB ) with this RF mod is simple.
Drop your OVER HEAD panel that has the Map lights.
Find The small connector going into the receiver, it will have 4 wires.
MOMENTARILY jumper .... this means just touch the two points together with a bent paperclip of the sort for a moment .....
MOMENTARILY jumper ...the black wire PIN 8 ...to PIN 2 Green with blue tracer.
This is a momentary ground pulse you are applying to LOCK your car .
You should see an immediate reaction of your door locks.
Now take the paper clip and momentarily bump from black wire PIN 8 ....to PIN 1 Red with Orange tracer..
This is the momentary ground pulse to UNLOCK your car.
If this test works for you .....your cars remote entry system is working if you were to have an IR FOB.
I pulled the schematic last nite. To answer the question about full functionality with this mod. Nothing changes with this mod. The car doesn't even know you have changed ANYTHING. The receivers input ...instead of IR , is now RF.
The REMOTE Panic function (from the FOB)is not an option as thought.
The ONLY functions were/are LOCK and Unlock. These commands close and locks everything as the original FOB did. THE ORIGINAL fob did not look (from pics of the original) to have a Panic function either. Panic lock is initiated from the center console toggle switch.
I will order several boards in the next couple days , and use up the bulk parts I bought for the original prototype to fabricate the new RF BOARDS. I will need for anyone that wants one,. to Chime in with their request. This is to keep The initial Board cost down if there is a quantity ordered.
First things first:
YOU NEED To check that YOUR system will function properly ( this verifies that your system will work if you were to even have a FOB ) with this RF mod is simple.
Drop your OVER HEAD panel that has the Map lights.
Find The small connector going into the receiver, it will have 4 wires.
MOMENTARILY jumper .... this means just touch the two points together with a bent paperclip of the sort for a moment .....
MOMENTARILY jumper ...the black wire PIN 8 ...to PIN 2 Green with blue tracer.
This is a momentary ground pulse you are applying to LOCK your car .
You should see an immediate reaction of your door locks.
Now take the paper clip and momentarily bump from black wire PIN 8 ....to PIN 1 Red with Orange tracer..
This is the momentary ground pulse to UNLOCK your car.
If this test works for you .....your cars remote entry system is working if you were to have an IR FOB.
#90
03-18-2016, 10:19 PM
Senior Member
Good progress on the project.
My '92 had a dealer-installed Jaguar RF alarm system (built by DEI, I believe) that used these novel harnesses which plug into the car's wiring without any modification of the original wiring. My system used the 1-button remote shown on the first page. (Still have it, the brain, shock sensor, and siren if anyone is interested) It was always a bit finicky and was disabled for that reason by the previous owner. I attempted to get it up and running but always had a door trigger issue that I believe was due a fault in the alarm module.
Anyway, I removed the system and installed a Viper 2-way paging system, using essentially the same connections to the car as the original alarm. I also added the functionality of 1-touch-close for the windows and sunroof through the remote, which has a range somewhere around 5000 feet. It's been extremely reliable and very expandable. I have a tilt sensor and programmable shock sensor installed with the system. Glass break sensors, exterior perimeter sensing, interior ultrasound sensors, smartphone capability, and GPS tracking are available too. If the alarm goes off, the remote in my pocket alerts me.
Good luck with everything
Nick
My '92 had a dealer-installed Jaguar RF alarm system (built by DEI, I believe) that used these novel harnesses which plug into the car's wiring without any modification of the original wiring. My system used the 1-button remote shown on the first page. (Still have it, the brain, shock sensor, and siren if anyone is interested) It was always a bit finicky and was disabled for that reason by the previous owner. I attempted to get it up and running but always had a door trigger issue that I believe was due a fault in the alarm module.
Anyway, I removed the system and installed a Viper 2-way paging system, using essentially the same connections to the car as the original alarm. I also added the functionality of 1-touch-close for the windows and sunroof through the remote, which has a range somewhere around 5000 feet. It's been extremely reliable and very expandable. I have a tilt sensor and programmable shock sensor installed with the system. Glass break sensors, exterior perimeter sensing, interior ultrasound sensors, smartphone capability, and GPS tracking are available too. If the alarm goes off, the remote in my pocket alerts me.
Good luck with everything
Nick
#91
02-15-2017, 02:34 PM
Ok, it looks like this was a 5 inch leaper. I have a 7 inch to mount on my 91' Sovereign. There are 2 long threads coming from the leaper.
What's not clear: There's flange going down the middle of the underside of the bonnet (likely hollow). How will the leaper mount in respect to this flange? Bore large circles to access the flat bottom of the bonnet to get to the threads, and to put nuts and washers on them?
JagBro
What's not clear: There's flange going down the middle of the underside of the bonnet (likely hollow). How will the leaper mount in respect to this flange? Bore large circles to access the flat bottom of the bonnet to get to the threads, and to put nuts and washers on them?
JagBro
#92
02-15-2017, 06:25 PM
Veteran Member
Ok, it looks like this was a 5 inch leaper. I have a 7 inch to mount on my 91' Sovereign. There are 2 long threads coming from the leaper.
What's not clear: There's flange going down the middle of the underside of the bonnet (likely hollow). How will the leaper mount in respect to this flange? Bore large circles to access the flat bottom of the bonnet to get to the threads, and to put nuts and washers on them?
JagBro
What's not clear: There's flange going down the middle of the underside of the bonnet (likely hollow). How will the leaper mount in respect to this flange? Bore large circles to access the flat bottom of the bonnet to get to the threads, and to put nuts and washers on them?
JagBro
The few cars (3) I've had experience with all had 5" leapers and all were fitted in approximately the same position. Access was from the last (most forward) aperture on the bonnet underside - the pic below shows the relative hole sizes, and on all the leapers I've handled, the thread was imperial, not metric.
The front locator hole in the hood would be larger than the rear.
5" leaper previously dealer fitted to an '88 XJ40
ps - not sure why a leaper topic is in this thread - maybe Don can move the last 2 posts?
Last edited by Lawrence; 02-15-2017 at 06:27 PM.
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93SB (02-21-2017)
#93
11-02-2019, 05:23 AM
Hi
I'm interested in your solution to go from IR to RF can you tell me price please
Thanks
I'm interested in your solution to go from IR to RF can you tell me price please
Thanks
THE 1988 -89 used infra-red remotes. no RF frequency involved. Was going to build a xmitter , but found it easier to have an RF board made that would fit inside the factory IR Central locking system box.
I replaced the receiver in the over head with an RF UNIT that fits in the OEM receiver box. Just take out the factory circuit board and install the one you buy. works a lot better than the "tv remote" system that was installed. LOTS more distance!
I replaced the receiver in the over head with an RF UNIT that fits in the OEM receiver box. Just take out the factory circuit board and install the one you buy. works a lot better than the "tv remote" system that was installed. LOTS more distance!
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