XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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1976 XJ12, New home

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Old 07-10-2014, 05:44 AM
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Default 1976 XJ12, New home

Hi to everybody,


Although I was reading your comments, I've never subscribed as a member. I thought that today was a great opportunity since I just get my new toy. 1976 XJ12. After seat for more than ten years the engine started and it runs very smooth... but there is a tone o work here. Tomorrow I'm going to flush all the fluids... maybe clean the fuel tanks. Tires have huge cracks... so, I'm also going to buy a set of tires.
Today I'm just happy to have it home.


Oh, one more thing. Register the car! It has a Not Operational Permit. So I have to install back all the smog equipment and then go to finish the paperwork.


VIN is U92R56329BW. If somebody have any info. Please let me know


The best
Debbie
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:51 AM
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Welcome Debbie, please post a thread in the new member area. Plenty of help to found here.
Link below
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:43 AM
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Welcome to the real world of motoring.

They are an AWESOME car, and once you get it all sorted, will enjoy it for a very long time.

Ours has just passed the 500000kms mark, and pretty much still original. The engine is untouched.
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:00 AM
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Welcome to the litter Debbie. Sorting out all the little neglected items can be a challenge, but well worth it when completed. Jump in and enjoy the ride.
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:31 AM
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Welcome, Debbie,
You're in for a lot of fun, frustration, satisfaction, anguish, joy, disappointment and fulfillment; the whole spectrum of human emotion as you sort out your car and get it to pass SMOG.

You've found the right place for help.

Welcome from ElinorB.
(';')
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:50 AM
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Debbie:


Welcome. ad t to see another gal with an interest in these critters.


Getting past SMOG has always been an uncome challenge to me. and, tough that your car just barely enters the SMOG required age. One year older and a bianjnual tough woul nt be there. why CA sticks to the frozen toime schedule is beyond me. Others have a rolling schedule. However, at leastwe didn't go annual as a past Legislature member from the nutty town wanted. Too bad, it could ad once was a quaint University town. At least she is termed out.


Go over the car carefully for vacumn leaks. Make sure the distributor advance is functi, vacum and mechanical.


I have let one t go low, add 5 gallons of Chevron's best. Techron is good stuff. Add a big can of Techron. That makes a highly Techron saturated mix. Do a freeway run to get the Cats good and hot just before the test. usaully works.


Might be worth the price of a test only not for pass just to see if it is ready.


Old cats are an issue.


Carl
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:28 AM
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Welcome! They're definitely addicting so I'm sure you'll have fun! I'll be a little interested in this car, as I have been increasingly intrigued by these V12s.
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:35 PM
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Hey ya'll, if you ever get fed up with the SMOG modifications and emissions tests and DNA analysis of your motor oil, etc. down here in TX, if your lights, wipers, horn, and brakes work, you are sent on your way for 15$ a year. There are drive-thru certification stations at virtually every 5th service station. Big open highways and plenty of long drives too!

Welcome Debbie! Those first few weeks are so rewarding reviving the car from the slight neglect of not having been driven properly. Don't forget to check those vacuum lines! - if the PO had cracked tires, just think about the rubber you don't see! Everyone on here has given me invaluable advice without which, I wouldn't be cruising around.
 
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:02 AM
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Thanks guys for all of your ideas!!! I really appreciate them


Today I put car on Jack stands and I went to pick up some tires. I just found a used set of tires in Craiglist. 5 tires = 150$ they are 225/70R15 and have a 60% left of the tire threads. I thought It was a good deal. plus the mounting and balancing for the same price.


Then, I went to 'shopping'. I bought all the fluids, filters and spark plugs.
I think there is a mistake ?? They gave me a FRAM Oil filter PH2931 and the car has a PH2995. It is way much bigger.
Omg... The oil filter has some Magic marker draft ... OMG it is from Feb_ 1997!! Can you believe it??
 
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:00 AM
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My XJ6 had Fram PH2931 on it,when I searched for a replacement the ones I found available were

1.Fram 2995
2.EBC 9658/l
3.Mann W930/13
4.Ryco Z133
6.Cooper Faim FT5925( previouslyZ509A,which was the bigger one like the PH2931)

Which were all the same mounting size but a shorter filter than the one I took off(stanardised apparently)
I have done 2500 miles since then with no problem. I talked to a retired Jaguar mechanic who said that is a normal replacement.
I don't know about on a V12 though, I'm sure someone else will be along to clear this up for you.
 
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:40 AM
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Caveat:


Check the age code on those tires. Even if the tread is good, they detiorate with age to the point of being unsafe. I think Tirerack has a decode section. Speed raing, load rating, build date, etc.


If you got them from a shop, they should be able to do that and reassure you that they are safe. And, a reputable shop just should not sell questionable tires!!!


From an in dividual....


I got a new set for my Jaguar last year. it wore the same tires that were in it when i got it in 2001. Still not age checked and with great tread, but, just not worth taking a chance on a blow out at 70 +. Been there long go, scary. Was lucky got it stopped with no damage or injury to me, my passengfers or others on the road. well, it was a Texas road no one but us on it!!!


Carl
 
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:03 PM
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[QUOTE
Omg... The oil filter has some Magic marker draft ... OMG it is from Feb_ 1997!! Can you believe it??[/QUOTE]

I absolutely believe it! Welcome and congrats on the new purchase. Nothing is more fun than the initial discovery phase when a new jaguar comes home.

Once the car is ready to move under it's own power I'd suggest changing the oil again after only a few hundred miles. If that filter is really from '97 there is probably a load of crud stuck in places loosened by fresh oil.

Anyway, lots of people here with big brains to help with issues.
Keep posting progress and pictures.
 
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by o1xjr
My XJ6 had Fram PH2931 on it,when I searched for a replacement the ones I found available were 1.Fram 2995, ...Which were all the same mounting size but a shorter filter than the one I took off.
I talked to a retired Jaguar mechanic who said that is a normal replacement.
I don't know about on a V12 though, I'm sure someone else will be along to clear this up for you.
Yes, it is correct. The PH2995 is valid for the V12 too. Actually, in my opinion I think it is better, even thought it is smaller and less oil capacity. The problem with the long one is that is too close to the exhaust (less than one inch!!), could you imagine how hot it is? it doesn't have any kind of shield to insulate all this heat.
 
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Caveat:
Check the age code on those tires. Even if the tread is good, they detiorate with age to the point of being unsafe. I think Tirerack has a decode section. Speed raing, load rating, build date, etc.
If you got them from a shop, they should be able to do that and reassure you that they are safe. And, a reputable shop just should not sell questionable tires!! Carl
Yeah, you are completely right. I saw they are 2 years old. The worse one I use it for my spare tire. Honestly, I bought them to roll my car. I have a tone to clean and detail. The old ones were a completely mess. Somebody installed tubes inside of the tires because the holes were HUGE! Plus they wasn't holding the air for more than an hour.... So, I'm very happy or at least, it is a presentable car.
 
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Napoleon Solo
Once the car is ready to move under it's own power I'd suggest changing the oil again after only a few hundred miles. If that filter is really from '97 there is probably a load of crud stuck in places loosened by fresh oil.
Yup, I just bought a regular 10W40 oil from 'Autozone' to start the engine and check the real oil pressure with the new filter on. Then I'm going to add some detergent product before flush the fluids. Same with the radiator.
I would like to re-torque the engine heads... if there isn't a tone of work.
 
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:36 AM
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Unhappy Saturday update

Fluids done! ( I'm still missing the differential). Surprisingly, the old coolant was very clean without any oil contamination. The old oil thought, it was very dark and 'smelly' (provably was there since 1997 as the filter).


I pressured check the coolant system for about 1 hour. OK! So, I'm happy with that.


For first time I used a product (call Sea Foam) to add to the fuel tank. I thought that it could be better for the injectors since this engine has been seating for long period (the fuel filter is new as well).


OH, OH... STARTER PROBLEMS! click, click! Finally it started but I'm going to have to check the starter solenoid (I don't know if this car has any starter relay). Or it works directly with ignition key switch (It also could has a poor contact...) I'm going to spent time with this issue. Does anybody has the workshop manual for this model with a good reading electrical diagrams?


Then, when it finally started, the oil pressure was good. but the engine is not running smooth. Just by putting my hand in the back exhaust tips, the right was very hot and smooth but the left was cool and blowing air as a compressor. Some issue in the left bank.


Apparently, everything is connected. Tomorrow I'm going to check the ignition wires and distributor cap with an ohmmeter and change the spark plugs. Then check if the injection system. I hope is a simple issue, otherwise It could be very bad news... with internal engine problems.
 

Last edited by Debbiesidera; 07-13-2014 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:52 PM
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I just ordered the Haynes Manual. It should make me the live easier if I have the electrical diagrams.
 
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:42 AM
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Most of the issues with the PreHE is related to the myriad of add on electrical bits that are now soooo old, and have been in need of TLC for a longer time.

The EFI loom, located in teh bottom of teh "V" will possibly be toast by now. All my PreHE have been, and a remade loom made such a difference.

The good old Opus ignition system is just "so special", and plagued with issues.

Spark plug sooting is common, and that could be the "B" bank issue.

The engine itself is BULLET proof. It is not subject to the same "do not overheat it" or you will kill it scare mongering of the HE. DO NOT over heat it in any case, but the PreHE is a tad more forgiving.

The BW12 transmission is very old school, and being cast iron cased, will last forever with some clean fluid from time to time.

There is a starter relay, on the bulkhead, alongside the RH cross brace securing bolt, and is the archillies heal of the system. The White/Red wire from that relay to the solenoid is also an age related component in my opinion.
 
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:43 AM
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Smile wednesday update

Today I received the Haynes book. I'm happy since there are lots of electrical diagrams. It will save me lots of time.


Since I'm having this 'bank_B issue' I started to pull the center pluming to check the wire harness and ignition stuff.


Is there anyone that have an original color picture of 1976 California XJ12? While I'm taking these things apart, I'm going to send the metal parts out for plating. I would like to know the correct plating for pluming and hardware.


Check parts:


Ignition wires: with an ohmmeter I checked them one by one. They are, OK!
Distributor/rotor: Same with an ohmmeter I check all the terminals, OK! and the rotor is in good shape as well.
Trigger board: Is an updated version with the inductive pickup. It has 4 wires. The +12v were very randomize since it was connected to the positive wire of the throttle with a crappy crimp type connector (very mickey mouse...). Now it is fix! Then when I had a solid +12v. connection, I check the odd and even injectors in both banks. All of them are 'clicking!' (it is not a true injector test, but it was quick).
Compression test: before remove the old spark plugs, I connected the oscilloscope to check internal problems. The relative compression test was excellent, the 4b is the lower one.


Almost 11pm! Tomorrow more. The electrical harness is very bad and the spark plugs are under an inch of clay and crap.


I'm going to ask to my bed... why the bank B is not working well?
 
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:56 PM
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Debbie,
You are a real Wonder Woman!
Great thing that you are restoring you own Jaguar.
You may consider converting you distributor to Hall's Effect sensor for better ignition.
You may, also, consider removing the radiator and having it boiled out and closely inspected. This is a real weak spot that could come back to haunt you later.
Good luck with you Jag!
 
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