Newbie looking at a XJ12
#1
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Newbie looking at a XJ12
Newbie here..looking at a 87 xj12 with 90k on it..been in heated and air condition storage for the past 9 years..i have been told the rear brake lines are closing up after 10 minutes of driving causing the rear brakes to lock up...this does not make any sense to me..Vin#SAJBN1047HC478141 This seams to be more like bad rotors and pads after this long of storage..
looking forward to the wise and nolagable Jag owners for help before i buy it.
looking forward to the wise and nolagable Jag owners for help before i buy it.
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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It's plausible. Over the years I've heard of some cases where a brake hose collapases internally and causes brakes to remain applied.
If the brake calipers, rotors, hoses etc are original....and considering 9 years of storage which plays hell with hydraulics (and other things as well).... I'd brace myself for a full system overhaul.
Be ready for gas tank rust as well, and replacement of fuel hoses, all new fluids and filters, etc as part of the recommissioning process.
For general buying advice thre's a Buyers Guide at the top of this section....in one of the sticky threads.
Cheers
DD
If the brake calipers, rotors, hoses etc are original....and considering 9 years of storage which plays hell with hydraulics (and other things as well).... I'd brace myself for a full system overhaul.
Be ready for gas tank rust as well, and replacement of fuel hoses, all new fluids and filters, etc as part of the recommissioning process.
For general buying advice thre's a Buyers Guide at the top of this section....in one of the sticky threads.
Cheers
DD
#4
There is only a single flexible line on the rear brake line, connecting the pipes on the subframe with the pipe from the master cylinder. Whilst this could be collapsing internally, I suspect a stuck/sticky caliper piston.
I had a Series 3 like yours, (although the six cylinder engine), and had a rear caliper piston seize up and cook the seals. As Doug says, get ready for a lot of work. It would be best to replace all lines with cupronickel pipe, and brass fittings, and overhaul all calipers. The rear suspension is best done by first removing the whole rear subframe as there is little/no room to get at things with it on the car. It is not too difficult to remove, but you need a trolley jack with a fairly high lift, plus stands for the body to rest on.
I had a Series 3 like yours, (although the six cylinder engine), and had a rear caliper piston seize up and cook the seals. As Doug says, get ready for a lot of work. It would be best to replace all lines with cupronickel pipe, and brass fittings, and overhaul all calipers. The rear suspension is best done by first removing the whole rear subframe as there is little/no room to get at things with it on the car. It is not too difficult to remove, but you need a trolley jack with a fairly high lift, plus stands for the body to rest on.
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