When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Preparing to replace the rear calipers on my 86 Daimler Double Six (euro version of XJ12) and I have some .041 diamater stainless steel safety wire from my wife's jewlery making collection. Anyone know if this will work to rewire the caliper bolts?
Thanks to LnrB for the good writeup in the archives. It helps a lot to know what tools to take to our British Iron club's shop for the job and fortunately I have a set of long combos from my days of working for MAC tools and a set of stubys from my years working for Easco and Danaher making Craftsman tools. I even have sets of crowsfoots, so with the club's lift and the writeup I hope it is not as hard as some have said. One fellow said it is not a PG13 rated experience, but much more advanced.
You're very welcome, Phil,
I can say with some authority that this job is not for the faint of heart. The most important thing to do he said was to grind a small taper on those bolts so they would find their holes easier. I think that's mentioned in Dick Maury's piece too.
The frustration was very thick at times, but I didn't hear any bad words I hadn't heard before. It takes a LOT of patience and tenacity, it's a slow job, but it Can be done by amateurs. It helped Enormously when he had the junker IRS out in the daylight to see for a pattern of how it should be.
As I mentioned, the major reason he had to do it this way was the welded exhaust system which we simply weren't prepared to deal with at the time. But really, he wanted to do it this way so he could say he did it.
Below is a picture of the wire I used and the tool. I'd never done anything like that before so I had no idea how to use the pliers. I'm sure it's one of those things, if you know, it's easy. Mostly I used them for their long reach into narrow places. For that alone they were indispensable. I never figured out the twisty thingy.
Those pliers are the bees knees for wires they should lock on the wire so that you don't need to hold it, then pull the silver knob in the centre and it should make a pretty twist. (this one is actually fixed to the wrong side of the bottom bolt)
You're very welcome, Phil,
I can say with some authority that this job is not for the faint of heart. The most important thing to do he said was to grind a small taper on those bolts so they would find their holes easier. I think that's mentioned in Dick Maury's piece too.
The frustration was very thick at times, but I didn't hear any bad words I hadn't heard before. It takes a LOT of patience and tenacity, it's a slow job, but it Can be done by amateurs. It helped Enormously when he had the junker IRS out in the daylight to see for a pattern of how it should be.
As I mentioned, the major reason he had to do it this way was the welded exhaust system which we simply weren't prepared to deal with at the time. But really, he wanted to do it this way so he could say he did it.
Below is a picture of the wire I used and the tool. I'd never done anything like that before so I had no idea how to use the pliers. I'm sure it's one of those things, if you know, it's easy. Mostly I used them for their long reach into narrow places. For that alone they were indispensable. I never figured out the twisty thingy.
I wish you success.
(';')
I couldn't get the photo to come up, but there is a photo of the pliers on the O'Reilly's web site. Their safety wire is .032" diameter, and a friend who has done this job before and is going to help me Saturday said he used a heavier wire on his so perhaps the 041" will work. If not there is a parts store a block from the club shop so we should be good. I am picking up new pads at O'Reillys tomorrow so I'll ask if they loan or rent safety wire pliers and if not I'll make do with some extra long needle nose and flat nose pliers I have.
I loaded the DD6 on the trailer this evening, feeding a jillion mosquitoes in the process, and I may take it over to the shop Friday and unload it so it will be ready to go Saturday morning. I can drive it but not very far because the calipers don't retract enough and the rotors will heat up after a mile or two. I have tried to force the caliper pistons back in but even with opened bleeders they don't move much so the new calipers are a definite need. I am hoping I can rebuild the old ones for my 87 XJ6 which has a draging rear caliper. At least I will have the experience when I try that one, unless this time makes me vow never to do it again.
Thanks to all who responded. Wish me luck and may the the ghost of Sir William be smiling upon me Saturday.
The wire I used is .041, annealed stainless steel.
Again, May it all go well for you. But even if it does (as it did here), you may still vow never to do it again. Husband has.
(';')
1. Somewhere in my unlabeled Jag Lore is an article on safety wire. it includes a description of the tool in the illustrations and how and where to use t.
primarily aero oriented. Mare than securing fasteners!!! Google might find it.
2. Mechanic's wire and safety wire are different. Elinor will recognize it as baling wire.
Good and useful, no question.
3. The concept is that the wire will be in tension and as such resist the fattener from rotating CCW if a RH. LH is CW!
4. When I did my "Hot rod of the forties" project, I sued safety wire for looks and effect. Drilled some bolt heads to acomodate the wire. Wonder what I did with the device I fashioned to hold them in the drill vice.
Points:
[...]
2. Mechanic's wire and safety wire are different. Elinor will recognize it as baling wire.
Good and useful, no question.[...]
Carl
Actually, Carl, there is a Great difference between Baling Wire (.075 inches diameter) and Mechanics Wire (22 ga., .035 inches diameter).
See picture below:
I've included an American quarter for comparison.
Mechanics wire is sold on one pound rolls and galvanized to prevent rusting while baling wire (mild steel) has no such protection and is sold in 70 or 80 pound rolls. I suppose either would do in a pinch as safety wire but I wouldn't trust either of them with anything as seriously important as brake caliper bolts.
Annealed stainless steel safety wire of .041 diameter is easier to work with than baling wire and stronger than either mechanics wire or baling wire.
(';')
I'm on car #29 and it's the first one that has had the caliper bolts safety wired. I assume the bolts coming out would be very rare .
So in my opinion what wire you use won't really make much difference. Or you would hear about calipers falling off all over the place.
The wire I used is .041, annealed stainless steel.
Again, May it all go well for you. But even if it does (as it did here), you may still vow never to do it again. Husband has.
(';')
When I looked back at your post the photo was there this time; I read that you pull the pliers center piece back to twist the wire, but I've not used one. I'll have to use my HF long flat nose pliers.
Originally Posted by yarpos
I had safety concerns about the wire selection, but it was more about possible consequences of taking your wife's jewellery wire
My wife is OK with using her wire; after all she is getting her "new" 06 SV8 to drive so she can contribute a little wire to the DD6.
Originally Posted by o1xjr
I'm on car #29 and it's the first one that has had the caliper bolts safety wired. I assume the bolts coming out would be very rare .
So in my opinion what wire you use won't really make much difference. Or you would hear about calipers falling off all over the place.
The fellow who is helping me Saturday did the same job on his 85 XJ6, didn't wire the caliper bolts at the time, and did have them work loose on one side, so for safety I'll try to wire mine.
I'm on car #29 and it's the first one that has had the caliper bolts safety wired. I assume the bolts coming out would be very rare .
So in my opinion what wire you use won't really make much difference. Or you would hear about calipers falling off all over the place.
Years ago I felt the same and used to shrug off the safety wire as a charming nod to the past. Eventually, though, the non-wired caliper bolts DID work their way loose. Why this would happen on a Jag and not any other car is a question for the ages.
I suppose a dab of Loctite could be used as a substitute.
Although the fronts are pretty easy, wiring up the bolts on the rear calipers is awkward. Next time, rather them wire the bolts to each other, I plan on easing my frustration by wiring each bolt to....to...to something else, individually.
Interesting, my 1995 XJR had safety wire on the rear calipers only
IIRC in the world sidecar championship of 1977 Rolf Biland adn George O'dell were separated by 1 point before the last race at Silverstone. Biland was an innovator and had secured his wheels with the new fangled loctite, the rain came on just before the start and Biland apparently couldn't get the nuts off to change his wheel and had to slither around on slicks losing to George who presumably used old fashioned locking wire.
IIRC in the world sidecar championship of 1977 Rolf Biland adn George O'dell were separated by 1 point before the last race at Silverstone. Biland was an innovator and had secured his wheels with the new fangled loctite, the rain came on just before the start and Biland apparently couldn't get the nuts off to change his wheel and had to slither around on slicks losing to George who presumably used old fashioned locking wire.
wheel lug nuts is not the place for LOCKTITE, but many other places it would be fine, just have to give it some thought!
The fellow who is helping me Saturday did the same job on his 85 XJ6, didn't wire the caliper bolts at the time, and did have them work loose on one side, so for safety I'll try to wire mine.
Originally Posted by Doug
Years ago I felt the same and used to shrug off the safety wire as a charming nod to the past. Eventually, though, the non-wired caliper bolts DID work their way loose. Why this would happen on a Jag and not any other car is a question for the ages.
I suppose a dab of Loctite could be used as a substitute.
Although the fronts are pretty easy, wiring up the bolts on the rear calipers is awkward. Next time, rather them wire the bolts to each other, I plan on easing my frustration by wiring each bolt to....to...to something else, individually.
Interesting, my 1995 XJR had safety wire on the rear calipers only
Cheers
DD
I did safety wire mine when I built the IRS just in case there was a good reason it was like that in the first place.
I farmed out the replacement of my rear calipers. I wonder if the guy wired them???
sure don't want to dive under and look And, worse yet. choose to wire 'em up. Although, I provide pads for the hand brake, it doesn't work! it did before, sorta...
I found it didn't the hard way. Semi catastrophe. but, only bent Jaguar metal, not Hutchins hide....
I have a pair of those wire pliers on my 'special tools rack".
Oddments:
I cleaned up another couple of wrenches in my "old tool" box. A really big tong like device. What is this? A black smith's pair of "nippers"?
No, it has a way to use it as a hammer and has a couple of notches to cut wire. Aha, a ranch tool for brb wire fence install and/or repair!!!!
Two much smaller end wrenches. hey, marked "Ford". Old Fords came with a tool roll. Sorta Jaguar like.
More Jaguar Thermoplastic paint shined. looking even better.....
09-02-2015, 03:04 PM
rear caliper bolt safety wire diameter?
