Since he (Andrew) sells few of them (S1).. he will want to get it from his supplier... he does not rebuild them... yours will be an "expensive" core charge until received back... but there is a real difference is quality between the suppliers out there...

Rebuilt electronic stuff, starters and alternators is a crap shoot today. Same for AC compressors and a lot of the Chinese junk being sold.

Do not worry about rust in the bushing again... the car will be totally used up by the time that arrives = again.

Just continue on putting all the new parts in place.. the steering rack can be done at a later time... getting out the old stock rack bushings can be fun without the proper tool.. I gave mine to JCNA for their Loan Program.. removing the poly bushings in the future is much easier.

 

Andrew said it would be about $330 for the rack and a $200 core charge. I'm going to talk to the owner before going ahead, but I don't think it will be an issue. He is starting to realize that a stylish, "cool" vehicle, is not as important as a full functioning safe reliable one.

For the steering rack bushings, we actually have 2 sets. Someone put poly bushings on the rack we have, and he had ordered new ones the day before I found that out, so may just send the new ones back and keep the ones that we have. Trying to make this budget last as long as possible. I want him to get his money's worth. From me and the car.

Good to know about the sub frame bushings. I guess the ones I pulled off were probably the original ones. The drivers side bolt wouldn't come out so I ended up removing the bolt that holds the mount into the frame, and sliding the frame off. I'd like to see if some high heat will help brake the bolt loose. If not, then it's just the reverse back on.

I'm having troubles getting the lower wishbone bolt out though. The one that holds it to the frame. is there a trick to it? I have the springs removed and everything else disconnected from it and it won't budget one bit. Even with some very enthusiastic banging with a hammer.

 

Trick is to heat it up so the bushes liquify somewhat, stand on the subframe and pound them out with a 30lb sledge and a steel large drift. That's what has worked for me. It's likely that the shaft will come out with the bushing rusted to the shaft. You will likely need new "Lower fulcrum bolts " because the ends will be egged or the shaft will be pitted.

 

It is "amazing" about a budget - I have found working on these older Jags that "doubling" your wildest guess will be close.. but low. The rack cost is just about what
I paid years ago.. the only hard part in doing the work is getting final bolt in the top piece correctly. Be sure to read up about using the Jaguar centering method!

Time will take about 175% more than you think and you will get to do some things over again as you "learn" from your mistakes. These cars were put together with no thought of taking them apart again or lasting more than a few years so they could sell you a new one ... seeing the door and window seals and how they did this compared to GM/Ford etc... is humorous.

But, I have owned Lumped Jags since 1992 and am "still learning"... have yet to drive one with a Jaguar engine. By now I have taken apart and put back together (upgrading them if possible) most every piece in multiple cars.

If it was not for the beauty of the body lines and the ride for such a old car... I would give it all up.

 

I would consider a series 3 or late xjs zf rack. The series 1 and 2 tall tower racks have a school bus like ratio which was fine when plodding along in 1969 on bias ply tires with 170hp. The later racks have a quicker ratio and the short tower helps with exhaust pipe clearance. If you can find a late xjs ZF rack they are the best by far. Both will need the longer 80s intermediate shaft to compensate for the shorter tower if you choose to upgrade. I have yet to see an early intermediate shaft with good joints with out play...yours is probablely no exception. A lot of the 70s part are poorly made. By the mid 80s jag improved their quality of parts drasticly and many of them fit early cars with caviots.

 

I finished my chevy conversion over tne summer, it was a car that was siezed up and put in a barn 15years ago. For the wiring, i would sve your self a lot of headach and go with a new wire harness, painless makes good systems, i bought a 1993 buick roadmaster wagon, stripped its engine and trans and all electrical to rewire the jag from head light to tailight. All connections were soldered and i used marine shrink wrap so no moisture would get in. Plus usingyour own wireharness lets you put in other things if you want, i have an auto dimming rear view mirror with map lights hooked into door lights, cruise control, and push button start.

One thing i would recomend is keeping a list of parts/part numbers and what car model you can find them on. Laminate it and keep it in the car so when you are on the road and your upper rad hose blowes out, it is easy for the parts people to look up.

I second the motion on a series 3 steering rack. After having both, the 3 performs much better, its cheaper and easier to get downthe road.

For rad and fan, i put in a 4 core hd camaro fan, and a ford taurus 2 speed electric fan. On high it pulls about 4200cfm. I have had my car out onthe hottest northeast summer days, stuck in traffic and my fan has never hit high speed.

 

My '72 LT1.700R also has a Painless harness with the ECU/PCM under the hood and on the passenger fender well. It has the dual Camaro/Firebird radiator, AC condenser and dual stock fans controlled by the computer.

My '71 383/200R has the Taurus fan setup but with an adjustable control for the "turn on" temperature (no computer) and the Camaro/Firebird radiator. It was installed before I knew about the dual Camaro fans and how well they worked.

Both have kept the cars cool in our hot So Cal temps and I use the AC about 300+ days per year - due to the BRG color and black interior.

These Jaguars even handle better once you get rid of the large stock school bus type steering wheels and go to a smaller diameter wheel!

The advice about the part numbers is critical... our memories fade over time. With a modified car it is especially important... but using GM engines, trans
and all other possible parts under the hood makes getting replacements easy and cheaper.

 

Lower sub frame is completely apart. I got the bolts out with some heat and hammering. I did mushroom the tip a little, but I put it on the grinder a little and get it fixed. Next comes clean, paint, and reassemble.

What cars were s1, s2, and s3? Like is there a specific year for each or is it a specific model? If we switch to the s3 rack, i need to track down a new intermediate shafts.

 

Series 1 is 1969 to 1973
Series 2 is 1974 to 1979
Series 3 is 1980 to 1987, V12 Series 3's were produced and sold into Canada until 1992.


If you are going to find retrofit parts from a Series 3 use 1984 and later. That's when quality really improved. I have no Series 1 experience but there is a noticeable difference in quality between series 2/3 and late series 3 parts. There are many parts that can interchange and many that will not.

 

Is there a list somewhere on the forum where the interchangeable parts are listed? Also, we picked up tie rods for the one we have, but they are too small, are the s3 rods smaller then the s1? If so we can just keep those for the new rack.

 

Oh, and I forgot to ask, with this particular engine, how important is the egr? The carb won't fit because of it so I was thinking I may just delete it. It's not computer run so it's not like I have to worry about the ecu retarding the timing or something. I know some people say don't others say go for it. Just wondering your thoughts. Emissions is no concern at all to us. It's historically tagged so we don't need it inspected.

 

If smog inspections are not required, remove all that is not needed. My two S1's are exempt in CA as well, due to being prior to '74 or '75 (never can remember since it is not a problem) .... nice to not have to deal with those problems.

 

The racks are completely different except for tie rods and the mounting bushings. Go for the latest series 3 rack you can find, after mid way 84 is what i have found. They changed some seals to improve quality. The only other parts you will need for the swap are a different set of hoses, it is a shorter rack and needs a tight 90 degree turn, i bought mine from suncoast. the other part you need is the intermediate shaft between the rack and the steering column. I picked up the rack and the shaft at a junk yard for 75! But i am sure you can find a yard to sell you just the shaft, not many people look for that part.

 

EGR. AKA exhaust gas regeneration. A smog thing. A carb'd engine will not care if it gets exhaust gas injection or not.


I doubt that an ECU/PCM engine will care either.


Now, OBDI and OBD IOI readouts will indicate it isn't functioning.


I installed the one on my LT1 and after some travail got it working. Why to get past the special CA SMOG referee.


Carl

 

The cut-off is 1975, Roger.
My car is a mere four months too new to be exempt! FOUR LOUSY MONTHS!! It was built in early 1976 instead of late 1975!

Otherwise there would be Numerous changes made under Nix's hood!
(';')

 

LnrB:


Might be time to write your assembly person. Most states use a "rolling 25" as a cut off.
Of course, not ours!!!!


A few years ago, Berkeley gal assembly person tried to get the inspection changed to annual. A press of folks of many interests got it side tracked. A lady I met in a parking lot described her as wearing pink sweat pants. Hers were a more conventional gray. She was driving a vintage MBZ and admired my Jag.


Carl

 

Thank you, Carl, but I don't think I'll bother. There are too many "Environmentalists" who want all cars over 10 years old off the roads anyway no matter their emissions readings. I'll just Seethe quietly.
(';')

 

MD is 20 years you can get historic and don't need inspection. 25 and you can get ratrod tags but can only drive on Sunday. And I know we have classic tags but I don't know the rules for that. We have historic on this one so we will probably straight pipe all the way back

 

Quiet seething isn't healthy. Venting is much better.


I got a letter a few months ago from a useless bureau. BAAQMD. They "manage" air quality. I was offered a grand if I turned my 94 Jeep into a well known local junk yard.


I fussed with the guy in charge of the program. He lives in SF. an avid cyclist. Never has owned a car. doesn't leave the city. Conflict???


Some years past, I sparred with a staff person of a pro politico. When termed out, he just got an appointment. Qualification???? Object, get all the "muscle cars off the road". My Jag qualified. His Taurus was "fine"!!!


Oh, footprints. Yup, your car, my car and others made one. But, their continued use spares the planet. A replacement every ten years seems counter productive. Oh, that logic thing, I forgot. ....


Yahoo, Jeep is up for renewal. No SMOG inspection this year!!!


Carl

 

Carl....
Same deal hear in NYC, the mantra...use mas transit, use mass transit, use mass transit. They push "Air Quality" and in the summer the alert comes over the road signs "AIR QUALITY ALERT DAY, USE MASS TRANSIT" all the while I'm cruising comfortable on the parkway with not a cloud in the sky. Its just share misey for the good of who or what I don't know. And mass transit is no great shakes here in the city...the subway smells very unpleasant, its cold in the winter and stifling hot in the summer. An then there's the other rides, usually to many of them to get a seat, most are fine but there are some real winners off hours. The subway cars are rough and noisy, nothing like a Jaguar.


As for NYC, there are so few hot rods and other specialty cars you get left alone and cars before 1995 only need a yearly safety inspection which is easy to pass.


Some day I'll be free-er...and live in a state with wider roads, no mass transit, lower taxes and no cone heads telling me how to live. I don't know if there are any states like that left but I've got quite a few years to look.