There is definitely fuel in the Oil,I can smell it.
I just hope im not beatting a dead horse.Would there be any bad reason other than just non sufficient spark,as to why so much fuel is going in oil sump?

 

No, I think you will be Ok once the spark arrives. The only other thing is a bad injector loom that is earthing and keeping the injectors open all the time. Unless your plugs are wringing wet with fuel this is not happening. If it were to happen, clouds of white "smoke" ie unburned fuel droplets would come out of the exhaust!

greg

 

I agree with Greg, there is no real way for fuel to get to the oil, only via the chambers and really it should all be burnt and thrown out the exhaust. Just out of interest have you done a compression test?
As far as Fuel injector harness goes its probably shot to pieces, one of the big mistakes Jag made when putting these together, crap wiring and even worse placement. Still I would just try and getting it firing first before diving into the wonderful world of rebuilding Jag electrical looms.

 

Thanks for info Greg,I did pull the first two front injectors.They were the only ones I could pull,without removeing the fuel rail.left thenm hooked up and turned key on.I could hear rail charging with fuel,let them sit for 5 seconds,no leaks.then turned eng over,both injectors were spraying on a pulse.
I pulled 2a and 2b spark plugs,they had very little gas on them,just a mist.So does that sound ok?

 

Ok i understand that,Thanks katoh.But I know when i bought car,Oil sump had alot of fuel in it.I do know someone had the pulse wire to ecu from ign amp,hooked to the wrong wire on amplifier.Unless it doesnt matter wich wire you hook to,out of the two?I have mine hooked up.the male bullit connector (one towards front of eng),hooked to ecu coax.and other female bullit connector hooked to tacho?
Also, Just wondering,can the pick up modual in distributor get worn,since nothing really touches it.It does ohm to specs.3.78 ohms,

 

I will try a comp check.

 

Was the car working when you bought it?
The Wires I assume do matter which way they go, From the wiring diagrams they have their place.
For that pickup module, check the gap it should 0.1mm there is a tolerance of +or- 0.025 but if set around 0.1mm it should be fine. If your getting the correct resistance I don't see a problem, try setting your multimeter to DC volts (low) and spin the dizzy, if it registers something at each pass it should good. When you check all these thing check them at the end of the wires where they go into the amp, just in case something as simple as a shot wire is the cause.
If you can get fuel and spark no reason why it wont rumble. If I think of anything else I will add.
I also recommend you said the dizzy was a bit rusty, pull it down and make sure all the advances work, oil it up so the rotor button should be easy to advance and snaps back quickly with hardly much effort.

 

Thanks Katoh,I never thought of spinning distributor and checking voltage.I'll give it a whirl,and see what I get.
Also,I did notice when I had Distributor(Dizzy) out of car,the vacum advance could move by hand,but when I sucked on vacume hose,nothing happened,I would think it should have moved.I'm going to remove it and give it the once over again..
thanks.

 

You won' get the vacuum advance moving by sucking on it, its a little more complicated on these cars. Clean up the mechanical/intertia advance this is very important its more than likely the biggest killer of our model V12 engines, I won't go into specifics as there is already pages upon pages written on it, but with the dizzy out clean and overhaul, don't forget to lube, it will make a huge difference when you get get running properly.

 

idk if grant has a different one, but this is the only current one i can find. maybe it can still help you in some way.

Btw you don't need a lesson in Lucas electronics. Electronics are electronics, maybe some of the bullet connectors seems a bit weird and systems in the 80s are all unique to themselves anyway. But don't tell yourself you can't do it because it is too weird or foreign, it makes just as much sense as any other system you are familiar with.
Simply become familiar with your XJS and it will be just as comfortable as anything else, dont tell yourself its too hard or that you cannot do it. Too many of these end up rotting in a shed not because the car is poorly engineered, but because the mechanic wasn't good enough only because they gave up.

 

Thats the one I be looking for, I will stop now.

Thanks.

 

I forgot to answer your Q.I bought car as is.The formentioned wires on amplifier where not hooked up.Wires where cut on that two wire harness ,loom.I found them tucked behind throttle tower by bulkhead.The amp wires where not cut.The two other wires in bunch were connected to main coil.wht/blk to neg-and wht to post+ of coil.

 

Ok,Lots of info I like that.Thanks to you all.
Now,I am going to become an autherized Jag mechanic,by the time im done with this car.
I'll never give up.
I lubed up vacum plate it moves pretfy easy now.The diaphram on vacum adv,sounds like it is leaking.could that be a problem.The air gap between the reluctor wheel and pick up,seems vary thin.My book says between 0.15mm and 020mm thats aprox .006 thousands inch I dont have a feeler gauge that small.I'll have to buy one.Im going to post a picture of what my book shows,diagram of ignition on my garage.I cant post picture on here for some reason.
I you notice in picture,it shows the far left bullit connector on amplifier w/s goes to tacho and far right w/s (towards firewall/bulkhead)'goes to ecu.Thats how mine is hooked up.
the small black wire in loom with ecu wire is not hooked to anything.

 

Ok,Here is what I found.I checked air gap,on pick up in distributor.
It was at 0.406 mm way off.I found a 0.152 mm feeler gauge.Thats what I set air gap to.
Hopefully that helps spark.I think that plus a new cap and rotor and spark plug wires.Then should be good to go.

 

Real smart I am,I pulled distributor to clean and adjust,and forgot to mark rotor position.
That what happens when your in a rush.
So now I need to do another TDC.Got lucky last time and turned over eng by way of starter.and it landed precisely at 0°.That wont happen again.. So anyone know wbat size crank pully bolt is? I tried 32mm but just a little to small.Im guessing 33mm..??

 

Its imperial at 1 5/16", from memory.

DO NOT rotate that engine backwards. If you miss the mark, go around again.

I set that air gap at 0.013" as that is the plastic feeler in most decent sets.

 

Ok, I could only find a .006 thousands comes out to a 0.152mm,my haynes manual say between 0.15mm and 0.20mm.Do you think I should go 0.013 ?,I figured as much,on the socket size.just happens to be the only size socket I dont have.When I turned it over by the starter,it hit at the 13 degrees before Tdc very close,I just need to go a bit to be on mark.0° And ill only turn it in the clock wise rotation.Thanks for the help.

 

I don't see a problem with that, when I set mine I couldn't find my feeler gauges so I simply used a piece of cardboard that came in at 0.16mm with the verniers.
When you get started the correct timing is 18deg Advanced at 3000rpm, so you will need a friend to help, remember to deactivate your vacuum advance when you do it.

 

ok,will do on vacum adv.
I thought the timming was 10° before TDC.ill do 18° before TDC.
So when I set distributor,should I have dampner mark,1A @ 0° on scale,then set dist with rotor pointing to 10:30?

 

If you are not going to rotate that extra 8deg, so be it.

I would set the distributor adjuster to FULL advance, coz you aint going to need no more, so you have only "retard" on that adjuster screw.

I set mine at 10BTDC, with retard only on that screw, and then I "drive time them".

I have never had the pleasure of laying under the front (up in the air) with some fool keeping it at 3000rpm, and all that scary stuff whizzing just at the edge of the nose. That bravery is simple for others.

The book is great, dont get me wrong, but lots of things are not as they were in the '80's, and fuel is one of them.

Odds on, once all the 3000 stuff is done, and it still "pings" when you drive it, what will you do?, retard the timing a smidge of course, until you can drive it as designed without any pinging. Thats "drive timing" as I call I it.

This ONLY works properly IF the mech advance is as it shouild be, and the vac capsule is good to go, the AAV is closed 100%, vac leaks eliminated etc, same as the book says basically.

The rotor tip should still point at the #1 that is cast into the disitributor cap, as that is the marker that all other settings are based on.