Jumped in the XJS this morning and no start. It had previously not started once, and while trying to check out the fuel pump relay and ECU relay it had started working again, so I went ahead and replaced both relays as they're cheap.

Looked in the Experience book on the fuel pump, in the section titled "1992-On Fuel system on page 258, there is a paragraph:

Quote:

FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT: Noel Keefer found that somebody had already replaced his in-tank fuel pump with a
Walbro. "A WALBRO pump ought to be available at NAPA, for cheap. It was a perfect fit." Note that, when you take
the old pump out, you'll find it encased in a housing. You have to open the housing up; the Walbro fits inside where the
original pump was.

End Quote. (hope there's no problem copy/paste the paragraph...if so, let me know and I'll remove it and paraphrase it)

Does anyone know what part number this would be or what it looks like? I found on on Ebay:

Jaguar Vanden Plas XJS XJ6 XJ12 Electric Fuel Pump Walbro Brand NEW | eBay

I haven't taken mine out yet.... not sure when I can as the weekends are about the only time I have to work on the car and this weekend is booked with family. Would like to be able to order it and have it on hand so when I find a few hours I can go ahead and swap it.

thanks,
howlinowl

 

Well....I pulled the trigger on this. Bought it from a different ebay seller cause they had free shipping and they were a couple of bucks cheaper. Did a google search on the part number and it came up for a '92 XJS. Supposed to fit and come without the housing, which I assume means that I use my old housing and not that there are other '92 XJS models out there that do not use the housing. Couple of Jaguar parts places that I looked at online with the OE pump that comes with the housing are $700 plus, so hopefully this is a less costly option.

When it comes and I go to swap them out, I'll report back.

howlinowl

 

Howling do yourself a favor next time she doesn't start. Go check the voltage at the coil leads. Before my fire I had thought my fuel pump was failing because it wouldn't start first crank. It was that one bad coil, not enough spark. Yours could be a fuel pump, but I don't want anyone to go through what I did.

 

MTR:

Thanks for the heads up. I read about your mis-adventure with your '92. As soon as I get this pump, I'm going to install it and then do the mods that are recommended in Kirby's book for the Marelli ignition. Probably going to punch out the cats also to reduce the possibility of my XJS from becoming the automotive equivalent of a rolling Molotov Cocktail. Thinking of replacing both coils as a preventative measure also, but depends on my XJS finances. Since purchasing the car, I've put tires on it, relays, now the fuel pump, still need to order rear rotors and pads and now the driver's window sticks down....wife is starting to have a cow over the $$ I've been outlaying. Still, it's cheaper than her car payment every month.

howlinowl

 

Just replace the wife. They are the most drain on the budget.

 

Good news....and bad news. The fuel pump is the correct one, you just open up the module and swap 'em out. Bad news is that I don't believe that it was my problem. Under the evaporative flange, there is a small wiring harness that plugs into a socket underneath. Then the wires up top plug into the other side of the socket. My pump was replaced at one time, the leads inside the tank were cut and then soldered to the wires for the new pump. The plug and socket underneath were melted together, guess the previous tech didn't want to chance pulling them apart.

Anyway. What I want to do is to remove the socket piece altogether, and just solder the wires together and eliminate the socket assy and plugs. Guessing that I could just leave the socket in place and drill a hole alongside to pass the wires through. But I need something to seal the hole around the wires. Wondering if silicone sealant would work, or would it eventually deteriorate due to exposure to gas and gas fumes. What would be good to seal this with?

thanks,
howlinowl

 

I got a Bosch/Walbro fuel pump for 93 XJ6 Vanden Plas. Any hints on positioning new fuel pump in plastic canister?

 

The instructions that came with mine instructed to push the top of the pump into the top. The top has the outlet and return ports in it. Then you install the isolator and ring from the old pump onto the new and insert the top of the canister onto the bottom.

I imagine if you install the pump into the bottom first, you cannot ensure that the pump isn't rotated a bit and the inlets and outlets will install correctly when you pop the top back on. However, installing the top first aligns the pump to the inlets and outlets of the top, and the tabs that the top snaps into the bottom aligns the bottom of the pump into the hole.

At least that's how it worked for me..... maybe I'm lucky..at least with this. Not so much with the lottery.

howlinowl

 

Could anyone tell me where to find a replacement fuel pump sealing collar? It fits on the nose of the fuel pump and seats it to bottom of fuel canister. Jaguar Honolulu says I would have to buy the whole fuel pump module. I just need the rubber ring because one portion has deteriorated.

 

Meant to update this, just forgot to do it.


No idea on where to get the ring. Short of a quick look-see to make sure mine looked ok, I didn't really pay that much attention to it when I swapped them over. I'm kinda wondering if some kind of o-ring from a hardware store might work in a pinch.

Forgot to mention that Kirby's book also addresses the wiring harness issue in the same 1992 fuel pump section. Some wire, round terminal ends, machine screws, rubber and flat washers and we're in business. I mounted the screws toward the back of the evap flange so I could still get to them with a test light or meter if I need to check it out again.

howlinowl

 

There are two holes on top of the canister, I used these to see the position of the fuel pump and then rotated/tilted canister to correct position.

 

Howlinowl, I don't own an XJ-S anymore but still enjoyed reading about your experience. Thanks for sharing how you got it fixed.

 

howlinowl,

This thread is a few months old, but wanted to ask more about the process you used to run your fuel pump wiring through the evaporative control flange. Did you end up using any silicone or other sealant, and have you noticed any fuel odor in your boot since doing this job?

I have a '92 also and the fuel pump is working fine. However I've had a fuel odor in the boot for a while and recently used a gas sniffer to diagnose the source. I noticed that my evaporative flange has already had a modification done by the PO as shown in the photo. Part of the original plug on top of the flange has been eliminated, and the wiring is running through a black circle of plastic with some sort of mastic or epoxy around it. It doesn't appear there are any screws or terminal ends. Not surprisingly, this specific spot sends the gas sniffer screaming when nothing else in the boot will register.

From service records I have, a fuel pump replacement and 'modification' were done at only 10k miles.

I've read Kirby's book on the subject and considering my options for pulling the tank out to remove the flange and try a better solution that would eliminate or reduce fuel vapor from escaping. Even if I drill holes/insert screws, etc, I'll need to seal up what is already there. The oem flange is nla, and even the substitute JLM21258 seems rare and/or outrageously expensive.

Thanks for any input.

 

From the looks of the picture, it looks like they replaced the electrical leads to yours, also. Looks like they just drilled a couple of holes (or one big one) to bring the wires through the flange. Looks like yours is sealed with RTV, same stuff I used to seal mine. I haven't noticed any leakage from mine yet.

In Kirby's book, they advise using a couple of machine screws through the flange to act as lugs to attach the wires from the pump to the underside of the flange. Then attach the feed wires to the top. They say that if you bring the wires all the way through like they have on your car, that fuel can actually "wick" by capillary action up the wire strands inside the insulation and find it's way out that way. I'm not sure if it would be enough to leave a puddle, but it's probably enough to set off the sniffer you are using. If you use the machine screws as lugs, it can only "wick" it's way up to the screw underneath and not find it's way out.

howlinowl

 

The wicking theory makes sense. I haven't pulled away the RTV yet, but I'm guessing you're right, just 1 or 2 holes with the wires running directly through them instead of machine screws and leads.

Do you know if the evap flange can be removed without pulling the tank back? If I have to go to the trouble of moving the tank then I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the pump although it's working fine. When you pulled your tank, did you have any difficulty removing the feed and return lines and clips under the car where they reach the tank?

 

I have my car in the shop and have been told I need a new fuel pump. Unfortunately I have also learned they are no longer in production. From the thread below, it seems like there could be alternative that fit within the housing. Does anyone have a part number for a substitute?

 

Do you have an in-tank pump, or the pump on the boot floor to the left of the battery box/sump tank stuff? is your car a 6 cylinder or 12 cylinder model?


If 12 cylinder or 6 cylinder and on the boot floor they do make them, in fact any supplier can sell you one, it is a standard Bosch-type fuel injection pump. eg: Rockauto
greg

 

Walbro makes a replacement pump. Part no. NMD 6013AA E.

Available on ebay, among other places. Typically the pump will stop working but the housing will still be fine to continue using.

Jaguar Vanden Plas XJS XJ6 XJ12 Electric Fuel Pump Walbro Brand New | eBay

 

I replaced my 1992 XJ6 Vanden Plas fuel pump with a Bosch 69506 Original Equipment electric fuel pump which I purchased on Amazon.com. It came with little filter sock. I suggest you rule out any relay/fuse problems prior to dropping the tank. Use a battery to supply Power to fuel pump lead on outside of tank. You should hear a whurring sound of pump is working.

 

I have the in-tank fuel pump. The part they plan to use is for the XJ6. Will that work for an XJS V12?

Also, they are adding a replacement flange, Wiring Harness and sealing ring to the tune of 1,077 in parts alone.

They have not pulled anything out yet, so wondering what are the chances all of this is necessary.

I'm not feeling particularly confident in this shop, but haven't been able to find a solid company to service the car.