Well spent some quality time on the non start issue fitted a known good ignition amp same problem, checked all my wiring again I had the wiring for the CTS and ATS crossed but the engine ran before. I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them they were sooty then I pulled the distributor cap only to find moisture on the rotor arm and inside the cap itself, I am sure this is the no start issue. The engine fired up and a lot of grey smoke from excess fuel I need to set up the TPS and throttle valves again and I should be back on track
cheers

 

GOOD LORD.

Good find.

You now need to drive it like ya stole it to clear all the crap out.

Well done.

 

You wouldn't think that something so simple would cause you such problem’s, any thoughts how the moisture ended up inside the cap?

 

Good spot. Make sure that the dizzy venting system is working properly and that should keep it dry and clear. If it is a Lucas system, the air goes in at the bottom via a tube with a small filter on the end, and is sucked out of the top into the rubber AAV to manifold fitting on the cabin end of the B bank inlet manifold.


Greg

 

I remember the same issues from my early Mini days the "bogging down" and no start from a wet distributor, I fitted the non vented cap on my truck engine just because I liked the look of the Lucas black cap lesson learnt with this one. I need to re-think this one.
I have no AAV just an electric choke I made up but I will figure something out.

 

Shows some of my modifications

Engine Layout you can see its different

 

Love it. Please can you post details of the choke arrangement. I would love to get shot of my AAV.
Greg

 

That Sure is different! looks great very nice and neat, like Greg asked prior to me a little more info on the mods would be great, they do look like a good thing.

 

The electric choke is the air solenoid for the AC normally plugs into the air box and lets more air into the engine when the AC is turned on, I have it wired into a switch on the dash and its connected to both plenum chambers through a T piece, works well when I switch it off the electric fan turns on and keep the engine at working temp. The coil is a modern Mallory performance coil it does away with the twin coil set up. The fuel regulator in the return line this does away with the twin factory fuel regulators. The ATS is fitted into the end cap on the plenum chamber I did not want to ruin the look of my air intakes, I have a modified TPS all the vac lines have gone apart from the bare essentials, trans, distributor, ECU and fuel regulator. I wanted to clean the engine and show that Jaguars can be reliable and that was the case until recently

cheers Paul

 

Under the dash, top left on the dash chrome bezel is the push button start, blue cap is the choke switch, main contactor for the ignition and the two red trailer box's are for the injector termination

 

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

 

Sorry Autob I hijacked your post but in summary from me, it was easy to pull one of the front injectors and observe it injecting fuel into a plastic bottle so pressure was good and spray pattern looked good, the fact that it would run on starter fluid threw me a curve ball however the issue I had was quality of spark at the plugs, with moisture in the distributor the pickup and spark distribution were both effected. This is some thing you should look at very carefully, good luck

cheers

 

Will not start, poor running or just cutting out this will do it all.

This might explain how the moisture entered the cap plus the running issues I had been having.





When swapping out my cap I noticed several cracks inside the cap.

 

Moff
It looks as though the air circulation vent is blocked up on that cap. If you have not got the vent system connected, that will cause the condensation, and maybe fuel fumes going bang inside the dizzy too. If you have the HE engine, this is what the system looks like. Older engine dizzy caps fit, but they do not have the airflow vents.



Greg

 

There is more! the pin that holds the pick up 12 point wheel on the shaft has simply fallen apart this caused the timing to slip now I need to make further repairs to secure this on the distributor shaft its like one thing after another with this fault.

 

For what it's worth you can agree with me or not, I would simply dispose of the complete ignition system and use something like the megajolt as a stand alone coupled with some coil packs to suite. This is my aim with the new motor, I love the old school stuff but I’m simply getting to old and my time is getting too precious to keep pissing about with it. I want to enjoy my toys while I can

 

That's where the fun is for me I like to fix things, I have never seen an after market kit that's better than the OEM stuff it all looks cheap and nasty. I know with modern technology there is better stuff out there I just haven't seen it yet.

good luck.

 

Tis an old issue, moisture in the distributor. Where does it come from???
From condensation in the crank case?


I've only seen or had one domestic car with a vent for the distributor.
It is the Optispark on the GM LT1 in my Jaguar. It was added in later models.
the earlier ones suffered from moisture induced issues.


I've a dim recollection that earlier caps had just a bit of a hole to vent the moisture.


Ford's A & B cars suffered from cracked distributor caps. The distributors
were directly over the head and the exhaust manifold was nearby. No crank up
on wet mornings.... Dad used to wipe them out or merely apply a bit of heat.
Tie a rag bit to a wire. Dip it in the gas tank. Remove a plug wire, crank the engine and light the torch. I've done that on occasion, when a match would not strike.


A way to prolong the life of a cracked cap is to borrow miladies finger nail polish.
Actually, a quick dry lacquer. Dry the crack. Seal it with brilliant red. It works.
for a while


That sure is the cleanesy 40 Chevrolet I've ever seen....


Carl

 

Firstly there is no after-market kit for these cars that I know of, bugger! secondly here is the link to what I want personally, yes its new age thinking but just gets rid of so many troubles we see with these motors, Timing and advancement are all electronically done, the spark plug gaps can be opened up as now we have ample power to power them.
Read through this site, a lot of good stuff here and the nice thing you will have to do it all on your own, no kits here.
Dual EDIS ignition

Again only my opinion,
All the best with your projects.

 

Quick related question.

CTS can be jumped out for testing. Can the fuel temp sensor also be jumped out? Mine was snapped off the sending unit. ATS, same question. Just for testing. I understand it's not crucial.