So...I couldn't get the trunk unlocked and opened it through the hole behind the license plate. The trunk is now open, but if I close it, it will be locked again. Turning the key doesn't do anything to either the release latch or the locking mechanism.
I would really like to disable the electrical part of this lock, but not sure the lock will work without power? Has anyone done this? If so what is the proper procedure? I haven't tried to remove it yet. Disconnecting the wiring doesn't help. Also...I do know how it is suppose to work (lock and unlock), it doesn't. The doors work fine.

Thanks...Jimmy

 

Hi Jimmy, does your fuel filler flap work as the power to the trunk lock uses the same source. If that works then you need to check the power to the trunk lock.

Roger

 

My fuel cap does not lock electrically. It only locks with it's own key (which the PO lost). The only fuse I was able to find feeds the locking module for all the locks. The doors are working fine.
...Jimmy

 

That's odd. The electrical schematics show that the 1993 and 1994 V12 has a fuel filler flap that locks.
You can download the diagrams from https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...xEkurAVr7-2e6A

Roger

 

My fuel cap has only the key lock. There is no solenoid or other type of actuator. There is nothing electrical around or under the fuel filler. The locking mechanism under the cap is a solid (non moving) catch for the key. Could it be that the convertibles were different? I'm glad it's this way considering the problems with the trunk. At least I can put gas in it even if I have to bungie cord the trunk lid.
...Jimmy

 

Not sure how the trunk lock works but if you say it does not lock/unlock with the key when electrics are disconnected then i can only assume the key operates the actuator and not the lock itself. You will need to take the lock out to see if the actuator is just stuck. Check the connector for corrosion and check the leads for signal.

Roger

 

It is a convertible!
the gas cap is KEY only... if you have a flat door key try that on the gas cap


the trunk/boot key is the TIBE KEY? for the ignition
it has 3 options
1) lock with the key -do not unlock with the electric door unlock...
2) use the key to set it to electrically work with the door lock and un lock (I leave mine that way...)
3) unlock


number one is useful when having your car valet parked...
or parking it with the top down....


2 is just fun...
3 is just open


I will check my drivers hand book that came with the car when I get home...

 

Yes ...all of that is true. However, what it is suppose to do and what it does are 2 different things. I will have to just take it apart, see how it works and go from there.
...Jimmy

 

Ok, not sure I understand the problem, but I just recently got very intimate with the lock mechanism on my 96, which I believe could be similar to your 94.

There's a plug that is tied to the release mechanism to your lock. Of you want to defeat the ability to lock and unlock your trunk along with (a) the fob or (b) the locks inside your car or (c) the door locks, then by all means unplug it.

You'll need to pull out the plastic fir tree clips and then you'll get enough room to do what you need.

The whole assembly is kept in place with two 10mm bolts. You may want to pull it out of there and see what the problem is. I can't say I understand what is working and what isn't. I suspect the lock isn't working at all and you'd prefer to just leave the darn thing unlocked all the time, rendering it completely independent of the locking system for the rest of the car?

 

Leaving it unlocked may be the outcome. Right now I can't unlock it. I will have to remove, unlock the key cylinder and find a way to make it just a mechanical lock. I am hoping the key cylinder is physically attached to the release lever. The key turns but does nothing.
...Jimmy

 

do you have the correct TIBE key....
it seems all of mine have been changed and do not match the TIBE code from the dealer... a lock smith had to figure out the new TIBE Key cut...


if one was changed and not all of them, then there is the possibility that you will need two different TIBE keys.... or have the lock matched up with the key you have ... I have no idea what that would cost...

 

Solace folks. My daughter's gal pal just
got a 2001 Cadillac Catera. Actually, a rebadged
German Opel.


Can't get in the boot/trunk. No key hole or latch on the
lid. All electric.


Button on the dash to release. It doesn't open.
Apparently common to the genre... A quick Google revealed that!!


Supposedly, a pull rope behind the rear seat cushion?? I'll tell her of that...


Do not want to adopt a Catera!!!!


Carl

 

Key is fine...it always worked before this happened.

 

JayCee,

a couple of suggestions:

- Read through that section of your Workshop Manual. It will help you understand how the lock works.

- The finger button on the boot lid actuates a lever which operates the lock latch

- The key merely serves to stop (or allow) the finger button from moving, which then precludes the lock rod from being actuated down to the lock

- If the key isn't turning the barrel properly to engage with the finger latch mechanism, then I think you have a problem at that area which may necessitate removing the lock barrel

- If the remote isn't working, then you most likely have a problem with the microswitch actuator at the lock mechanism

Good luck

Paul

 

Just to confirm, you are using the black key, not the green one, correct?

There is a difference between the two keys. The green one will not unlock the trunk.

 

You may have broken the part that actuates the larch. Does the button release remain hard, preventing you from pressing it, or is it soft, let you press it, just without any result?

 

Took the locking mechanism apart.

First problem is that the tiny servo that is suppose to move the release cam, doesn't.
Second problem the key cylinder is not rotating far enough to the unlock position.

For those about to ask....no it's not the lock stopping the servo. Also...no it's not the keys, they all worked in the lock until last week.

For right now I'll put it back together (minus the servo motor) and just leave it unlocked. I will take the key cylinder to a lock smith and see what can be done. If I get the cylinder working, I can then just lock it with the key.

Thanks for everyone's replies....Jimmy

 

I had a similar problem with my '89 convertible. The lock would electrically unlock but the lever could not unlatch the mechanism. I can see that the locking mechanism is quite different from my '89 however since you can open the trunk through the hole, try removing any covers and see if the lever has enough travel to pop it open. I found quite a bit of "slop" in the cam and arm that lifts the actual latch mechanism. I ended up tightening the cam opening in the lever but some have had luck moving the hole that the actuating rod sits in. Just a thought.

 

The latch works fine. The problem was the failed servo in the lock position and the cylinder not rotating far enough to unlock. I have the latch back in and working fine, just no key cylinder installed. That is going to a lock smith. If it can't be fixed, I'll put the cylinder back in just to fill the hole.
...Jimmy