Does anyone know of any other source of the "upgraded" 82 degree switch, other than V12performance?

Everyone else seems to have the 85 degree.... which I find, somewhat, puzzling....can't imagine that they are made exclusively for V12performance.

Thanks,

Rob.

 

No answer for you as to suppliers but my guess is that the lower-temp switch is not a custom specification. Rather, V12performance found an otherwise identical switch, but with a lower rating, that was intended for some other make of car.

I'm 99% sure I've seen the same style/design/size/shape elsewhere...although I'm foggy on where and when.

If I have an epiphany, I'll shout

Cheers
DD

 

If you go on ebay and look for a 22mm thermostatic fan switch you will find all sorts at various temps. Here is one that cuts in at 87 and out at 82, for example.
Fiat X19 X1/9 Uprated Radiator Thermostatic Fan Switch | eBay


Greg

 

Thanks Greg, yes, I looked at other switches.....the key is the info you supplied on the 22mm thread size...most helpful.

Thanks,

Rob.

 

FWIW my aluminium radiator was made with switch bung and l run an 80 degree switch in the rad itself. Basic off the shelf thermo switch running twin electric fans.

 

Rob, I am assuming the 6 litre car you have has the same fitting as the 5.3. That is on the water pump inlet casting. I did not notice that you had a 6 litre when I replied, apologies if it is different.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg......I'm fairly sure its good on 22mm for both 6.0 & 5.3.

Anyway, think I'll order from V12performance, just didn't want to end up with an 85 degree "disguised" as an 82 degree!

FWIW, before we decided on the 6.0, I spend many hours researching part # differences between the motor mechanicals on both motors....... only differences I could come up with, on the 6.0, were:- crankshaft, longer throw: con rods, shorter; pistons, wrist pin (gudgeon pin) closer to piston crown.....makes sense to easily increase the ccs at least cost...that's Ford for you,well actually probably most auto makers....current VW shambles not withstanding.

Rob.

 

I am using a Beck Arnley 201-1545 Thermo Fan Switch which is 82/77... That is what was on the switch when installed last year. I think I got it from an auto parts store. You can also find them on Amazon.. It fits and works well...

 

I recently bought this



Jaguar part number C22961





Switch on at 92℃ switch off at 82℃

 

I know it's off topic but just for reference the Con Rods between the 5.3 and 6.0 are identical. The heads are different the cam shaft is different, you are correct the pin height piston is closer to the crown.

The block is also a different casting mainly the bellhouse for the 4L80 transmission. A 6.0L block can be re-drilled for a TH400 but the 4L80 will not fit a 5.3L without an adapter. There are other differences such as the intake manifolds have different mountings cast into them for the fuel rail, the 6.0L fuel rail uses O ringed injectors. Most parts are interchangeable.

 

I like the idea of putting the switch in the radiator. I had to bend the terminals when I installed thermo fans as there was not enough room even with right angle spade connectors.

 

Warren, l had the same issue when fitting twin falcon fans and actually used a non switch water inlet casting. The 80 degree switch in the radiator does mean the fans cycle a little more often when stationery but it also means the cooling system has access to a supply of slightly cooler water if it were needed.

 

I fitted AU fans too. RH fan is on with ignition and LH is cycled by the switch. I did it this way because of the AC and it was easy.

I have a Megasquirt and spare 6.0L engine and as soon as my shed is built and I have a house, (my XJS is sitting in a dusty farm shed ATM). My plan is to use the MS to control Fuel, ignition, AC and thermo fans

 

Thanks, for the further info Warren. I hope I never need a new block or heads!

Seriously though, I was just worried about the long term "consumables"... starter, ac compressor, sensors/switches, water rails, gaskets etc. I got the impression that the motors were pretty much indestructible if, all is well maintained.... certainly see me out.

Did anyone, actually, do an in depth look, at the difference between the 6.0 and the 5.3 motors?

One thing we don't like is the rear seats on our 6.0....looking at a '93, BRG 'vert, 96,000 miles, started out at $7,500 5 months ago, down to $4,500, has issues, for us, so $3,000 max.

Yes, I was wondering about relocating the switch (looks tight enough down there) when the radiator is out this winter....have to fit a drain to it anyway.

Rob.

2006 X type Wagon.
1994 XJS 6.0 Convertible.
1987 XJ6 DD.

 

I have both a 1989 5.3 in my car currently and a spare 1995 6.0L (the 6.0L is out of an XJ40 so is a little different to the XJS, mainly ancillaries). The TWR 6.0L in the pre-facelift cars is a completely different engine again.

My 6.0L is already in bits, ready to be grafted into the 5.3.

There are 4 different V12 block configurations that I know of, possibly more. The crank shafts are interchangeable between the 6.0 and 5.3 LIP seal. Cranks are not interchangeable between rope and Lip seal without modification to the block.

The 6.0 heads should breath better than the 5.3HE due to a larger pocket around the exhaust valve, there is far less shrouding around the exhaust valve on the 6.0.

Cam shaft in the 6.0 has a more gentle ramp and 0.001" less lift than the 5.3HE.

Fuel rail is different with O ringed injectors and the intake manifold casting has been modified for the different fuel rail mounts.

Throttle pedestal and capstan is different. Oil pressure sender is different but interchangeable with my 5.3 at least.

Crank damper is different with a press on and single keyway, doing away with the collet and dual keyway on the 5.3. My 6.0 also has serpentine belt pulleys.

Oil dip stick is at the rear of the engine on the 6.0.

Cylinder liners are slightly shorter for clearance with the additional stroke. Pistons have the pin height reduced so the pistons don't wack the head. Con Rods are the same.

Marelli ignition is exactly the same. Later 6.0 had the Ford EDIS setup, these also had cast cranks.

Main and bigend bearings are different (tighter tolerance and NLA) 5.3 bearings will work, (so I have been told by a very experienced Jag engine builder).

Thats about all I can remember.

 

Thanks Warren,

That's really interesting.

Are you going to use the auto box from the 6.0 XJ40? I've also got my eye on a 6.0 from a 1994 XJ40.

Very interesting on, the main and be bearing, tighter tolerance.

How many miles on that 6.0 and what are the main and bes like...if you got it that far apart?

Many thanks,

Rob.

 

I have a 4L60e from our local Commodore V8 probably the same box as the Corvette. Its been built with 4L65e 5 pinion rear planet and ultra heavy duty clutches. I've over built it, cost me a bomb but if it lasts it'll be worth it.

No idea on miles on the 6.0, bearings were shot (scored) and oil was BLACK, but crank is almost like new. These forged V12 cranks are HARD (nitrided from the factory) not a mark on the journals.

Most of the valves leak, pored IPA in the chambers and in some it ran out pretty quick. So heads need rebuilding.

cheers