I've disassembled my motor and cleaned it. It seems that there may have been some type of lube where the rotor fits into the cap (left blue arrow) in the picture below. Is there a specific type of lube to put in this hole? Also, in the picture below (right arrow) there appears to be a washer of some sort and there isn't on my motor. Anyone know what this is?

 

Expedio2005


No photo attached to your post that I can see. Please repost it. Thanks.

 

Sorry about that, I forgot to attach it. You should be able to see it now.

 

I cannot remember but I would imagine some lithium grease wouldn't do any harm in that location. The washer I think was fiber and probably there as a spacer to reduce the fore and aft movement of the shaft. If its not there then its probably not needed on that model but if the end to end play is too much, what ever that is, you could probably pick one up at Sears (my favorite place to get obscure hardware locally). That's the best I can do unfortunately, good luck with it.

 

Ok, I'm just getting around to putting everything together. I ordered part SKF 527935 from amazon last summer and just fished it out of my misc. parts box. It seems to be a fraction of a millimeter too large to just drop in and I also cannot force it down in the shaft hole like I can with the original seal. The other thing worth noting, the new seal has a what appears to be a metal cap on top of the rubber seal whereas the old seal was flexible rubber. No flex to the new one at all. Anyone run into this? If so, how did you force the new seal into place? I've just put it in the freezer to see if I can get it to shrink a bit. If that doesn't work, I may go get a can of compressed air and spray it upside down on the seal to super cool it and see if it shrinks some more. Any other suggestions are welcome.

 

Is it possible they sent the wrong seal? This just seems the most likely explanation to me.

 

Well, I compared the diameter of the old seal with the new one and they were identical. I ended up tapping it into place with a hammer and a socket slightly smaller than the diameter of the seal. Its going to be a PITA if it ever needs to be removed. The good news is the pump works. Time will tell if I fixed the leak.

 

Hi Iam new to this forum and Jagaur as a brand. My recently purcased XJS Convertible had/has the same problem with fluid leaking out. So I was happy to find this thread.
I followed all the steps and orded a new seal from amazon. Thanks for that information, looked at your pictures and got to it. Apart from the seal to be abit differant than the one I took out it went well.


But I still didn´t get i to operate, so I went back to the forum and read that filling the wrong oil could be a cause to this. Called Jaguar I my country (Sweden) for an answer about what oil to use. Since this is an old car they could not help me! So I called some smaller shops instead, mind you that Jaguar is not a big brand over here and was told to get some Pentison CHF 202 instead. I did and still does not work.


So I Think maybe that I need to bleed or flusch the system first and to make sure that the new oil is in all the tubes. How di I do that or how did you all do?


I really need help with this, love the car but hates this!


Daniel

 

Welcome to a rather lively and entertaining forum.
Sorry to hear it's not working. Can you hear it trying to work? If not there are a couple of things to check. No.1. Is the handbrake on? There's a defeat on it to stop you opening the top at 100 miles an hour.
No.2. Remove, dismantle and clean the rocker switch that operates the top.
Let us know how you get on.
Graham

 

Sorry for not beeing clear, the motor works fine its just feels that it lacks some Power. It worked percectly before apart from leaking. So since it works I kinda guess its the oil and that the system is not properly clean from the oil I put in that was the wrong kind. What oli brand and sort are you using?


Daniel

 

I looked for this Hydosol 756 fluid, mentioned by superchargedtr6 further up this thread, on Google but could only find Royco 756 which may be it in another label. Perhaps superchargedtr6 can weigh in on this.
Is the fluid you have very viscous?

 

I bought the fluid on eBay. It was only about 8.00. I bought two quarts. Way too much. New convertible top installation complete, works great. Had to cut the ends of my lines, put new ferrels on to stop all leaks

 

Ok thanks, could you give me the name on the fluid cans. I will take the motor apart againg and see if there is anything done wrong. Since it works I dont think so, but still. Maybe I have some air pockets i the liftarms.


Daniel

 

Royco - 756 Hydraulic Fluid, Mil-PRF-5606H

I went back in the archives of my purchases, and here is the exact copy of what I bought.

 

This fluid is thin. As in as thin of fluid I've ever used. I can only guess that the pump has to draw more amps when using a higher viscosity fluid, therefore effecting operation of everything.

 

TexasScott:

I also have a leak in the top system, however mine is on the drivers side of the car. I need to get access to the cylinder and associated plumbing on the drivers side. From the sound of it you had the side pannels removed to check the cylinders, how do I remove those pannels so I can see what is going on.

BTW my fluid was clear, so I used hydraulic jack oil as temporary test. At the time I was unable to get the correct fluid from the local dealer.

Thanks
Al

 

I'm pretty sure hydraulic jack oil is too high a viscoscity. A higher viscosity oil is more difficult to push through the 1/4" lines, causing the pump amperage draw to be higher, and that draw actually causes the window motors to operate more slowly, which messes up the timing of the power top control, which causes the windows to open and close at incorrect position. Whew.....

 

I assume you have a left hand drive car (like me) in which case the pump is on the passenger side. To look for a drivers side leak youl need to remove the panel trims on the inside. On my 90 this was straightforward with just aa few Philips or other cross head screws to remove then kinda slip it out from under the floor plate (I'm now dredging my memory ) and ease it along the seat belt which passes through it. No need to remove the seat belt as I remember, just slip the trim a!ong and out of the way. Inside there is a black plastic weather protector over the window motor and beside it the hydraulic ram with the the 1/4 inch tubing attached to it.
It's a bit awkward in there. I don't know what the common failure mode is for a drivers side leak, it could be the tubing or the ram itself I guess although it's hard to see how the tubing could fail.
As supercharged says, the oil probably needs to be similar in viscosity to spec. There is at least one other thread on this forum on alternates to the original. Let me know if you can't find it and I'll dig up something.
Good luck!
Graham

 

The oil I used is very thin, nowhere near as heavy as the oil in the jacks for my motorhome, which has the consistancy of Automatic transmission fluid. I know the chryslers and mustangs used s imilar setup Might get some of the oil used in them as an alternative.

Al

 

I followed advice by texasscot on my 90 XJS and replaced the pump seal to fix my power top leak. When I got it all back together the top and the qwindows were out of sync, so I must have assembled brush plate on the back of the motor off by 180 deg. Switched the two wires that go to the motor and all was well again.
FYI one of those bug spray or weed killer wands with the battery operated pump in the handle works great to transfer the oil from the can into the top pump.