Dreaded shielded wire Hello Grant!
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Dreaded shielded wire Hello Grant!
Grant, didn't you have a write-up on dealing with that dreaded shielded wire that goes to Pin 18 of the ECU? if so, can you post it again?
My V12 project is at the point where it should start, but won't. No injector pulse. The shielded wire is on my checklist and I wanna make sure I have my head wrapped around things properly.
As I recall you've simply cut back any broken wire, soldered-in new, and eliminated the shielding. Is that correct?
Cheers and thanks
Doug
My V12 project is at the point where it should start, but won't. No injector pulse. The shielded wire is on my checklist and I wanna make sure I have my head wrapped around things properly.
As I recall you've simply cut back any broken wire, soldered-in new, and eliminated the shielding. Is that correct?
Cheers and thanks
Doug
#2
Hello Doug.
Dont remember a write up specifically, but probably part of other write ups.
Originally I stripped the coax in the engine bay, all the way to the rear of the brake booster (RHD), and replaced it with standard TV coax, coz I knew bugga all in those days.
Later, I removed the amp, and mounted it out the front, near the 2nd coil. I ran the wires up the RH inner guard channel, and used standard wire, and spliced into the thin centre core of the factory coax inside the panel near the RH door hinges (XJ-S). Soldered and shrink wrap sealed. I made very sure the earth wrapping coax was stripped waaaay back, so it had no way of shorting that centre wire.
Mine had that coax outer earthed AT the ECU, some are earthed at the amp. It matters not, as long as it is earthed at ONE end only.
Since you are doing what you are with an XJ6 car, I would simply run a decent standard wire from the amp to the #18 pin, and dont worry about the shielding.
My understanding is that the coax was to prevent HT signals from the 6A and 6B spark plugs messing with the pulse signal, was the main reason for it. If you keep that standard wire away from that area as best is possible, I see no issues at all.
Hope that makes sense????.
Dont remember a write up specifically, but probably part of other write ups.
Originally I stripped the coax in the engine bay, all the way to the rear of the brake booster (RHD), and replaced it with standard TV coax, coz I knew bugga all in those days.
Later, I removed the amp, and mounted it out the front, near the 2nd coil. I ran the wires up the RH inner guard channel, and used standard wire, and spliced into the thin centre core of the factory coax inside the panel near the RH door hinges (XJ-S). Soldered and shrink wrap sealed. I made very sure the earth wrapping coax was stripped waaaay back, so it had no way of shorting that centre wire.
Mine had that coax outer earthed AT the ECU, some are earthed at the amp. It matters not, as long as it is earthed at ONE end only.
Since you are doing what you are with an XJ6 car, I would simply run a decent standard wire from the amp to the #18 pin, and dont worry about the shielding.
My understanding is that the coax was to prevent HT signals from the 6A and 6B spark plugs messing with the pulse signal, was the main reason for it. If you keep that standard wire away from that area as best is possible, I see no issues at all.
Hope that makes sense????.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 08-05-2016 at 04:28 AM.
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Grant I believe that wire does still exist on marelli cars.(at least early digital ignition cars) It is certainly present on my '89 xjrs but rather than connect to the amp on L/H intake the shielded wire loops back on itself and connects to the ignition harness by male/female spade which is cable tied to fuel rail.
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Grant Francis (08-05-2016)
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I transplanted an entire V12 harness into the car, so I have the shielded wiring whether I like it or not
I really should've given this wire my attention before I installed the harness. Sometimes I'm not very bright !
As for the no injector pulse I've gotten as far as making sure the injectors have 12v supply and that all F.I. ground wires are grounded before running out of time. It'll be a few days before I can do more....but the 'dreaded wire' is high on my list
Thanks for the help
Cheers
DD
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Grant Francis (08-05-2016)
#11
Doug if you have a Scope, test for a signal at the ECU when cranking, use the ECU case as ground NOT the shield. Also use a DVM on AC volts and measure the shield both ends to the ECU case and centre pin it should be 0volts, any AC voltage here could be an indication of noise being induced into the wire messing up the signal.
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Doug (08-05-2016)
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Is the case grounded via the bundle of ground wires....or should it be grounded at the actual mounting points?
Also use a DVM on AC volts and measure the shield both ends to the ECU case and centre pin it should be 0volts, any AC voltage here could be an indication of noise being induced into the wire messing up the signal.
Will do, and thanks
One more question to clarify things in my head:
Should shielded wire be grounded to the ECU case itself? On my harness the shield terminates with an eyelet which I simply attached to a convenient ground point. Seemed logical, but I should've taken better notes when I was removing the harness from the donor car.
Cheers
DD
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What happened to my Series III v12 was the plastic got heat cooked and brittle near the amp on the engine. The wire is a multi layer affair: signal wire in the center, a layer of PVC, shielding braid, then more PVC.
As the PVC gets brittle and cracks, the shielding wires can touch the center signal wire, shorting the signal.
I cut it back until I reached flexible wire again and soldered on a new piece of wire to the signal wire and ran it to the amp. I think I left that piece unshielded, and it ran fine.
it's not essential that the shield should ground to the ECU case. There is nothing going through the shield, it's just protecting the signal wire. If it was a common sensor ground then yes.
Did you check upstream too? Is the amp connected correctly, as well as the distributor? If there is no pulse from the star wheel and pickup, there will be nothing from the amp either.
As the PVC gets brittle and cracks, the shielding wires can touch the center signal wire, shorting the signal.
I cut it back until I reached flexible wire again and soldered on a new piece of wire to the signal wire and ran it to the amp. I think I left that piece unshielded, and it ran fine.
it's not essential that the shield should ground to the ECU case. There is nothing going through the shield, it's just protecting the signal wire. If it was a common sensor ground then yes.
Did you check upstream too? Is the amp connected correctly, as well as the distributor? If there is no pulse from the star wheel and pickup, there will be nothing from the amp either.
Last edited by Jagboi64; 08-05-2016 at 09:09 PM.
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Doug (08-05-2016)
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I just barely began checking things before running out of time. After voltage supply to the injectors the 'dreaded wire' was my first thought.
Never had a problem with it on my XJS V12 so I never learned much about it. Must've been lucky for those years
I'll keep everyone posted
Cheers
DD
#17
That'll work
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Doug (08-06-2016)
#18
Grant I believe that wire does still exist on marelli cars.(at least early digital ignition cars) It is certainly present on my '89 xjrs but rather than connect to the amp on L/H intake the shielded wire loops back on itself and connects to the ignition harness by male/female spade which is cable tied to fuel rail.
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Grant Francis (08-06-2016)
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You can probably find the insulated male/female spade connection tied to L/H side of fuel rail near throttle pedestal/coil assembly.
Last edited by baxtor; 08-06-2016 at 06:29 AM.