According to my Diary at 'Orange Blossom Towers' on the 29th of September I came up with a New Idea for an Easy Way to Bleed the Brakes on an XJS.

And Since I wanted to Change the Brake Fluid on my Grey XJS this was an opportunity to try it out for real.

To my complete Amazement, it just worked a treat and since I've had a few PM's from Members having problems with Bleeding their Brakes, I suggested that they could try my idea and having done so let me know how it worked for them.

Where like me they were quite Amazed how easy it was, providing of course you know the way to Bleed the XJS Brakes in the first place.

For which I will be for ever grateful to PTJS ( Paul ) who taught me how to do this a couple of years ago and have come to regard him as an expert.

But as for the Idea itself here goes:

Materials Required:

( 1 ) 12ft of Clear Polythene Tubing, which is a good fit on the Caliper Bleed Nipple.

( 2 ) There is NO item ( 2 ) That is ALL you need!

No fancy suction devices or pressure bleeders, you don't even need or even want a non-return Valve.

Except for a Couple of Items that you should have laying around in your Garage/Shop.

On the assumption You already know how to Bleed the Brakes, You can do this all on your own, without the need for anyone to help you.

The Set Up:

Push one end of the Polythene Tubing over the Caliper Nipple that you want to Bleed, which as you probably already know, is the one furthest away from the ABS Master Cylinder Actuator.

Then about 3ft away from this place a 'Jack Stand' or something Similar, which NEEDS to be HIGHER than the Bleed Nipple on the Caliper you are Bleeding.

But LOWER than the Master Cylinder Actuator.

So Between the 'Jack Stand' and 'The Bleed Nipple' the Tube should hang down in a 'U' BEND. (which is a very Important part of the process)

As for the rest of the Tubing, for the most part that can just lay on the ground but near the end you can do what I did and tie it onto the handle of a 'Step Stool' or something similar.

With the end of this dipping into a Clear Container/Measuring Jug or whatever but the end of this does NOT have to dip into the Brake Fluid or need a Non Return Valve.

So Place the 'Step Stool' with the Clear Container and the Tube Dipping in it, preferably far away from the Car, so you can see the Container out of one of the Windows.

Make sure the Tube and Container are well secured, so the Tube Can't fall out or the Container fall over.

All The 'Magic Happens' between the 'Bleed Nipple' on the Caliper and 'The Jack Stand'

As you Start to Bleed the Brakes taking all the usual precautions of covering any exposed Body Work in old Towels .

The Brake Fluid will come out the Caliper, then drop down into the 'U' Bend, then push itself Uphill towards the Top of 'The Jack Stand' as you gently Pump the Pedal using Full Strokes, in accordance with the 'Teves' Brake Bleeding Procedure.

Unless you want to change all the Fluid, there is no need to keep pumping the pedal until you see it going into the Jar.

As long as it fills the 'U' Bend between 'The Caliper' and The 'Jack Stand Top' then that should be enough.

Just make sure the Brake Reservoir doesn't run out of Fluid and is kept 'Topped Up'

Then get out of the Car, check for Air Bubbles between the Caliper and the Top of 'The Jack Stand' There should not be any to be seen (more of why not in a moment) and then do the Bleed Nipple up.

Why no Air Bubbles?

Because the Top of 'The Jack Stand' is Higher than 'The Caliper Bleed Nipple'

Gravity is making the Brake Fluid run 'Backwards' towards 'The Caliper Bleed Nipple'

And this is the IMPORTANT PART as The Fluid is Trying to run Backwards towards the Caliper.

Air Cannot get into the Caliper through 'The Bleed Nipple Thread' Because Brake Fluid is trying to get out of 'The Bleed Nipple Thread'

Then Rinse and Repeat with the other Calipers.

You should only have to do this once but 'May' have to repeat it until the Pedal is feeling as Hard to you as it should.

But you do need to know the procedure for bleeding the brakes, or with or without this new method nothing will work.

So why do you need the Measuring Jug?

If you were Changing the Brake Fluid, then you would Pump the Old Fluid into the Container, a Measuring Jug would be better for this, as if you are doing this on your own, it can help you to make a 'Guesstimate' of when to Top Up the Reservoir.



Push one end of the Tube over the Caliper Bleed Nipple (always do the rears first)



Have the Tube hanging down in a 'U' Bend with 'The Jack Stand' Higher than the Caliper Bleed Nipple



You should be able to see the Brake Fluid pushing up towards the Top of 'The Jack Stand' where I've put a piece of tape.



Brake Fluid being pushed uphill towards the Top of 'The Jack Stand' so when you Stop Pumping the Brake Pedal the Brake Fluid tries to Run Backwards and Automatically Stops the Air From getting back in



Showing the General Arrangement
Protect any exposed Bodywork with Towels or something similar in case the Tube comes off, which shouldn't happen if the Tube is a good fit on the Nipple.
But have some water standing by to wash off any accidental spills.

 

I prefer a gravity bleed with a much shorter piece of tubing
and a clear container.

Tape a magnet to the container, run the hose up from the
nipple, then down into the container which has been hung
on the suspension or inner fender above the level of the
nipple. The magnet does the hanging.

Crack nipple open and wait.

No pumping whatsoever.

 

Hi Plums

That may work on 'Normal Cars' but try doing that on an XJS and you will soon run into Trouble.

 

OB,

Great pics and description!

One thing that needs to be understood by owners, as you mentioned, is really to know how the brake system works. Because the rear brakes have their fluid sourced via the electric pump not "directly" from the foot pedal, it is necessary to have the ignition on when undertaking the bleed of the rears (although not for so long that it overheats the pump). The movement of the pedal allows the pump to directly move the fluid to the rear circuits, whereas the front brakes have fluid moved via a direct foot-pressured circuit from a chamber at the front of the actuation unit. It's a subtle but really important distinction.

Good work, as always!

Paul

 

Hi Paul

I couldn't have done it without you!

Check out my 'Cherry Blossom' Resto Thread, about 'Bleeding the Low Pressure Side'

If you remember my Panic PM's we had some Fun with That!

I did it on my Grey Car a Couple of Years ago and did it on my Red XJS Today!

By the time I'd finished doing that, I was a Nervous Wreck!

It didn't want to come out after 26 Years and I was convinced I was going to Snap that Plastic Elbow!

So it only took me 4 hours of very minute Jiggling before I could move it at all!

Also note I was using my Finest Egyptian Cotton Towels according to the Market Trader that I bought them from.

 

Will the vacum pump set up i use on many other brake systems work on this one as well, or no?

 

Hi Wingrider

I have no idea if that will work or not, I've never used one.

 

I use a piece of poly tubing with a check valve on it. Fluid will push out of tubing but air will not flow back. 1 man job done in minutes. I've done it that way for 30 years with no problems

 

Guys does this all still apply to pre ABS?

I would think mostly the same except for turning on ignition to do the rears? Does the H.E pre ABS have this pump?

Also the WoOz mentions for pre ABS not to pump the brake pedal all the way down for risk of wrecking the master cylinder.

 

I use a cheap weed spray bottle $10 from Bunnings, with a rubber stopper and pressurize the reservoir.

Jaguar XJS Restoration : How to bleed Jaguar XJS teves ABS

 

Hi Bro

Your 'Lucas' Car does not have any ABS and so there is no electric pump to worry about.

As such the System that you have is about as simple as it gets and so my Brake bleeding method will also work on your Car.

But as always it is best to Bleed the Brakes in the way you that you are either used to or feel most comfortable with, so if you've got a 'mate' to help you that knows what they are doing that's a plus.

 

Hello All,

Mine is a 1995.25 XJS 2 + 2 with the Mark IV ABS. I am considering replacing the entire ABS assembly. What will I need to accomplish after installing the new-to-me assembly?

Thanks, Jerry

 

Here are the Mark IV instructions. Nothing special. Why are you replacing the ABS?

 

Hi Jerry

That was a very old Post on Bleeding the Teves Brakes but since then I accidentally came up with an easier way that works even better

How I found an easy way to Bleed the Teves Brakes

Or you could try the method pioneered by Paul (ptjs) which is different and more effective to that shown in the Manual

 

Jerry's talking about the Teves Mark IV, not the Mark IiI. Completely different system and procedure. The Mark IV system is much easier to bleed.

Jon

 

my lucas car has ABS......hency why i installed brake speed bleeders in the rear when I had it out.