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I don't think the wheel needs to be re-invented.
The grommet is a standard off the shelf wiring grommet and given the environment it lives in lasts just as long as all the other rubber in the engine bay.
I don't think the wheel needs to be re-invented.
The grommet is a standard off the shelf wiring grommet and given the environment it lives in lasts just as long as all the other rubber in the engine bay.
no re-invention just deciding to use different rims?
like I have seen pictures on this site where some one added an Al catch tank in addition to the PCV sump vent system... I even have that same one on my watch list on ebay...
I had thought that maybe the PCV system was loading up bank B and making it Miss "NO!!! " COIL FAILURE! was the problem... so I will hook up the vent pipe... I ordered a new rubber hood for it as it was old and any movement made it crack... so I will cleanout that thingy and put a new hood on it and hook up the pipe to the intake air filter...
ah... love it the more I mess with it the more I understand it... and put it right...
What about a making a little bracket fixed to the back of the airbox body to support the solenoid body so all its weight is not on the grommet?
Greg
Greg that is a great Idea..
I will look into even a simple wire clip...
something to give it support so that it is not loaded in double shear and tension...
Both my 1995 MR2 & 1994 Celica had the same valve. It would certainly be a sensible upgrade for reliability & tuneability (if needed)
Good to know.
OTOH....just to throw something out there...
*If* someone had a mind to simplify their engine bay they could remove the valve and just adjust the base idle to a happy medium point. The V12 is very flexible in that regard. They'll idle at 350 rpm or 900 rpm or anywhere in between. And the compressor operates in all climate control modes so it's engaged (and the valve opened) at virtually all times anyway
My 91 idles around 750 rpm . Without or with that 12v cyl on the air cleaner it will drop to around 600 rpm when the ac comes on. MY engine will also stall between shifts (5sp manual). Can't speak for a auto trans car. Since I substituted that stock 12v cyl with the Toyota adjustable vacuum switch I have it adjusted to idle at 850 rpm when the ac compressor comes on. Also I have a switch inside the cabin that turns the compress OFF when ac is off. As probably everyone knows the v12 compressor cycles for fuel cooling, on another subject, personally, I think the fuel cooler & compressor cycling with the ac turned off is a waste.
Lawrence
I'm not sure what this is. I've looked at Haynes and the ROM without success, probably as I'm not sure where I'm supposed to be looking (nothing under "air cleaner" at any rate). It just sits in a hole in the RH cleaner box ( RH = looking from cabin to front) and looks as if it's suppose to be wedged or fastened or something, but isn't. I'm assuming it's something electrical due to the "12V" label.
Any clue what I'm looking at, and whether this is a problem, would be much appreciated.
Mystery object of great mystery. Front of car to left.
It just sits in there happily. Or perhaps not so happily, which is what concerns me.
It just pulls out - it's just sitting there.
I had exactly the same situation on my 92 XJS convertible. I bought a bunch of grommets at Lowes and now I'm all set. Pity the A/C doesn't though.
Just a quick note on this air valve. I replaced mine with the adjustable rpm one like Kirby used in "The Book" . This was a great cheap improvement when rpm and AC working together come into the subject. This is particularly involved when a manual transmission conversion comes into play .
Lawrence
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but why is the valve more involved with a manual transmission converted car?
Mine's a v12 with the manual conversion and when I turn the air con on, the revs jump up and down and sometimes the car stalls.
Would be great if I could work out how to fix it!
As said my 91 5.3 5speed manual conversion idles @ 750 rpm, around 800 when the ac is cycling . I can't remember how stock air valve worked with the TH400. I read in Kirbert's Book about using the adjustable Toyota solenoid for AC idle control from the older Toyota . I followed his instructions & it works great. ( thanks Kirby). Now as far as stalling issues with the manual conversion . Mine stalled almost continually between shifts. I was told because of the fuel injection "override" in the ECU , I have no idea what that is or does !! Anyway I talk Roger Bywater @ AJ6 in the UK. I sent the ECU to him . He reworked it & stalling problem solved in relation to the manual shifting. My "guess" is there might be an AC vacuum hose off somewhere in the system (blend doors, etc)
Last edited by 44lawrence; 09-03-2020 at 11:57 AM.
Reason: left word out
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but why is the valve more involved with a manual transmission converted car?
Mine's a v12 with the manual conversion and when I turn the air con on, the revs jump up and down and sometimes the car stalls.
Would be great if I could work out how to fix it!
I am not clear if you are saying your car stalls at tickover aircon compressor engaged. If that is the case it is probable that the car stalls because the aircon compressor puts the engine under extra load at tickover and the extra air solenoid that the aircon compressor being on should trigger is not working.
If, alternatively, you mean that, at tickover, aircon compressor engaged, the revs soar to about 1500 then drop suddenly and then soar again, and the engine sometimes stalls in this process, then the extra air solenoid is working far too well! The ECU cuts the fuel if the throttle is closed and revs are above 1400. if this is what you are describing, reduce the size of the extra air solenoid intake.
As said my 91 5.3 5speed manual conversion idles @ 750 rpm, around 800 when the ac is cycling . I can't remember how stock air valve worked with the TH400. I read in Kirbert's Book about using the adjustable Toyota solenoid for AC idle control from the older Toyota . I followed his instructions & it works great. ( thanks Kirby). Now as far as stalling issues with the manual conversion . Mine stalled almost continually between shifts. I was told because of the fuel injection "override" in the ECU , I have no idea what that is or does !! Anyway I talk Roger Bywater @ AJ6 in the UK. I sent the ECU to him . He reworked it & stalling problem solved in relation to the manual shifting. My "guess" is there might be an AC vacuum hose off somewhere in the system (blend doors, etc)
Great, thanks. If I unplug the AC idle valve, it made no difference to the idle quality, so guess it's not doing much.
I did notice a microswitch on the A bank throttle, that was on a bent bracket and wasn't being activated. Turns out it's the idle microswitch, so might be that, too.
Have already had the aj6 ecu adjustment for the manual conversion!
I am not clear if you are saying your car stalls at tickover aircon compressor engaged. If that is the case it is probable that the car stalls because the aircon compressor puts the engine under extra load at tickover and the extra air solenoid that the aircon compressor being on should trigger is not working.
If, alternatively, you mean that, at tickover, aircon compressor engaged, the revs soar to about 1500 then drop suddenly and then soar again, and the engine sometimes stalls in this process, then the extra air solenoid is working far too well! The ECU cuts the fuel if the throttle is closed and revs are above 1400. if this is what you are describing, reduce the size of the extra air solenoid intake.
Sorry, didn't see this. Its the former: the revs drop too low and it can stall at idle, though revs do oscillate, I don't think they go as high as 1500 rpm in the peaks.
So, the revs oscillate when the car is warm, worse on a warm start. If I add air con into the mix, the troughs in the oscillation can drop low enough to make it stall, though not often.
Will try and do a video.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by HeWhoDaresRoyV2; 09-04-2020 at 01:53 AM.
Reason: Add info
Have managed to sort the oscillating idle - turns out the tps wasn't plugged in!
This has made the drop in revs at idle with a/c on less of an issue as it just drops from 700rpm to a steady 600rpm now. Will order a new supplementary air valve and hope that's the end of it.
So two separate issues, but one made worse by the presence of the other.
What about a making a little bracket fixed to the back of the airbox body to support the solenoid body so all its weight is not on the grommet?
Greg
Thats what I did. The thing hanging out of the back of the breather on the RH side was just annoying whether the grommet it fit into was good or not. Really strange location I always thought. Then, with the angle of the dangle, it was in the way. I also bought one of those small air filters, clamped it onto the nipple end of the device (which actually works quite well) and used a bit of metal strap and attached it with one bolt on the back side of the breather - one black zip in self tapper. Closed up the hole where the grommet was... Seemed like the simplest way to go. Problem is/was the OE wiring on the unit is hanging by a thread (couple of twisted wires) so I have a new/used one on the way...
07-22-2016, 02:53 PM
