Cheers JigJag! That all makes alot more sense now!

I don't suppose you know if 14 AWG will fit those Bosch connector crimps by any chance? Or alternately know what the maximum current draw is on those injectors?

 

Max current

Injectors 3ohms
14 volts

I=V/R

so 14/3 = 4.7amps

14awg is way too big it will carry 32amps I would use 18-20awg

 

Can't quote specs, What's the impedance? 2 to 3 Ohms?

I = V/R
13 Volts / 2.5 Ohms = 5.2 Amps

14 Gauge is 1.6mm. May be snug but you can always open the clip up a bit before crimping. Originals are probably closer to 16Ga. 1.2mm.

 

Cheers guys. Warren I think things got a little lost in translation from the spark plug thread

The fellow who wrote this up has recommened 16AWG however its probably erring on the side of caution:
Jaguar EFI Injector Harness Rebuilding

I am just concerned 16 AWG might be a bit too chunky to fit in the connector.

 

That's because 16awg is too big. For such a short run of cable I would use 18awg which is 3mm² or just over 1mm in diameter. GXL wire has thinner insulation than PVC used by Jaguar so the wire will look smaller.

 

Cheers Warren, I appreciate the help. By the way I had a look at your restoration blog on your red beauty...very nice!

I am an electrician by trade but in Oz we usually talk in metric sizes (eg 1.5mm, 2.5mm, 4mm cable etc). The AWG is throwing me a bit as we don't get a direct conversion.

As far as I can see 16AWG is just shy of our 1.5mm cable we use for 10Amp lighting circuits with a voltage here in Oz of 240V.

The diameter for 16AWG is supposed to be 1.29mm. So if we want to find the cross sectional area (to get mm2) we'd have to go half that for the radius so 0.645mm. Plug er in and you get:

A=πr2=π·0.652≈1.30698 so that would make it just shy of 1.5mm cable yes?

If we did the same for 18AWG she'd be just be just bigger than our oz 0.75mm cable @ 0.81mm. That should be good for 5.6Amps or more so would also be adequate if those injectors are only drawing just below 5Amps however if we were using standard cable and placing it back in the "Vee" we would have to consider what effect heat would have on the current rating.

Using GXL wire and taking it up out of the V and I think 18 AWG would be fine.

Still I might err on the side of caution and go the 16AWG as I only want to do this once!


The chart I used is here:
Wire Gauges - Current Ratings

 

As you know with power cable bigger is better. I would use the largest cable that fits in the connector and is able to be crimped. If you go too big then you run the risk of not crimping the conductor properly. It might not fit in the connector housing or some strands might not get crimped.

 

BTW most OEM's use 20awg for injector harnesses. So 18awg will be fine even with low resistance injectors. As the average current is quite low due to the pick and hold via the current limiting resistors (power resistors)

 

I had 20G Tefzel Recommended by Steve Newing From Efihardware.com in Melbourne.
Yet to start loom build...

 

Ok back from sea and time to hit the ground running before I have to go back again!

So first things first, I was happy to say all my parts arrived whilst I was away for the injector harness. Still waiting for my 16CU due soon but that is in another thread.

So my first question is, these little white plastic beads came with the Bosch Injector plugs. I had a few ideas what they might before but does anybody know for sure? There seems to be enough for each wire so I am assuming they go around each conductor maybe as like a strain relief to stop it pulling out? Any clues?

The whole kit, enough for 15 injectors (I bought spares)


The little white beads:

 

They are seals and go in the back of the connector.

So the wire would go through the seal then through the connector before being crimped.

 

This is the point where I usually push my wire against the newly discovered seal and it just won't fit through. I hope you are luckier than I.

 

Hi Bro

Welcome home but check this out, now that's what I would call a Wiring Harness!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rl-out-172408/

 

Cheers for the feedback guys.

Well...i made a start.

The first one was a bit scary as I didn't want to break the female end attached to the needle valve itself...I don't have spare ones of those!
First thing was trying to figure out how it comes off....it looks simple. Pull out the little retaining clip and pull...but why is it so bloody hard to come off still dammit ? Ok....will have to use a little force....pop! She came off no worries. The P.O has used RTV to keep it in place for extra support. Not a bad idea actually and will probably do the same on the new one if they feel loose when I put them back on

First one off hurray!


Most were easy to pop off however the last two for some reason were a P.I.A. I had to lever my screwdriver on the fuel rail a little bit to try and wedge them up....scared the crap out of me as a little bit of fuel dribbled out and I though I might of busted something . Obviously I still had a bit of fuel pressured up in the line from before I turned her off. I think I just opened the seal up a bit. I stopped immediately and checked and all looks good. Whew.....although I did notice on one of them that the rubber tubing doesn't cover very much of the top of the valve...should I be concerned?


I found it helpful to label them as I go, just to help things along when I put it up for my template:


Lasty, something strange I came across. The braces that hold the cable harness in place....two of those bolts, when you take them off seem to go straight down into the engine. I can smell oil when I open them and could see it on one of the bolts. What are these bolts for normally?


Well got them all off, pulled the plug on the other end and found I have another plug (those remaining wires that go to the ECU)



It felt good to get it finally out....but I felt like I have ripped out her spine and feeling a little brutal....I hope she'll forgive me!

 

Scary....

She'll love you when you give her a brand new SHINY harness

 

Sorry, wrong post

 

I'd be concerned about any improperly installed fuel injection components. And I suspect that you will get some commentary about the improper clamping on those lines. There's some concern that the barbs on the injectors are so very sharp and are designed to use ferrules on the line ends rather than clamps. Clamps may cause the barbs to cut into the line interiors. And also, some of those are hose clamps not fuel injection clamps which are smooth steel bands rather than thread slotted. Those slots also tend to damage the hoses.

EDIT:On second look, those appear to be two-layered straps and the inner strap is likely smooth.

It may be a good time to pull the whole rail and update the hoses and replace the ferules.

Just replace the bolts once you move the harness. They appear to be Vee cover securing bolts that were utilized for holding th tie downs when FI was added.

 

Thanks for the heads up Jig Jag.

Fortunately my hoses on my fuel rail should be ok as they were touched by the Great Wizard's magic


As quoted from Grant from my spark plug post:

 

Day 2 on the harness:

Couldn't even move in my shed as it was full of kids bicycles, rubbish, Daddy Long Legs and who knows what else.....how does it get this messy after only a month offshore?

Once I could move in there I started by taking off all the old brittle tape bonding the wires together. Crikey it just all turned into crumble!


Next up I i had to untangle everything so I could make logical sense of what goes where:


Didn't have any hooks but I had a crap load of Koala nails sitting around so used them instead (Because I don't use them for much else...my wood skills suck!) One either side of the Bosch plug to keep it in place:




Finally I made some copies of the schematic for reference as well as the old colour code chart.


Next step. Start running in the new wire on top of the old.

To be continued....