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Thanks Greg,
That's what I was lookin for, information wise. I think I have issues that need addressed there. On another note, I swapped the coils to the way described by JT, and it is the same scenario. Acts the same
I will have to go look but I do believe the previous owner messed that part of the wiring at the amp.... As I remember the shielded wire was cut an folded over on itself and just taped to the harness. That wouldn't explain why it would run sometimes before I changed these things. What I am going to do, the next day I have to tinker, is to unplug all that crap that goes to the amp take a pic of all the wires and do a connect the dots type of comparison to show you what they were like, and you can tell me the ones that are wrong. Some were cut and had no connectors.
Good idea to post a photo of what you have. Quite clearly this is an electrical problem that you have somehow made a bit worse, not to worry, it will be fixed. BUT do ONE THING at a time, then test; and I woul start by re-using your old coil!
The shielded wire that goes to the ECU MUST have that outer woven shield earthed. If the earth wire is not soldered to the shield it must be done. Secondly, the outer shield must NOT contact the thin inner wire that actually goes to the ECU. If necessary peel back enough of the outer to get to a decent bit of inner that is properly surrounded by uncooked insulation. Then connect that inner securely to the ECU wire, and insulate the lot.
Greg
Ok, so I figured out that there were 2 wires that were switched. The shielded wire and there is a black wire. The black wire is in the same loom cloth as the shielded one. I switched them and now I can get it to run with a rough idle again. I should peel back enough of the shielding to solder a wire to it and ground it? I just don't know where the black wire goes.
Also, I have picked up a knocking noise some how.... Could it be that I didn't get a plug wire on the plug and it's not firing on that cylinder?
Last edited by Metaxalone; 05-04-2016 at 07:23 PM.
Ok, so I figured out that there were 2 wires that were switched. The shielded wire and there is a black wire. The black wire is in the same loom cloth as the shielded one. I switched them and now I can get it to run with a rough idle again. I should peel back enough of the shielding to solder a wire to it and ground it? I just don't know where the black wire goes.
Also, I have picked up a knocking noise some how.... Could it be that I didn't get a plug wire on the plug and it's not firing on that cylinder?
That black wire may be the ground for the shield maybe just come adrift. My shielded wires connect to black, l believe it is important that they should be grounded at one end only.
Ok I'll look into the black wire and attach it to the shielding of the white ECU wire and see if that helps.
I am still curious as to why I have a knocking sound now. Has anyone had the knocking sound after changing the plugs and wires? Could it be that I just didn't push a boot all the way on a plug ?
Ok I'll look into the black wire and attach it to the shielding of the white ECU wire and see if that helps.
I am still curious as to why I have a knocking sound now. Has anyone had the knocking sound after changing the plugs and wires? Could it be that I just didn't push a boot all the way on a plug ?
Maybe check you haven't switched a couple of leads onto wrong plugs.
Ok, so I figured out that there were 2 wires that were switched. The shielded wire and there is a black wire. The black wire is in the same loom cloth as the shielded one. I switched them and now I can get it to run with a rough idle again. I should peel back enough of the shielding to solder a wire to it and ground it? I just don't know where the black wire goes.
If the black wire is in the same loom as the shielded wire, and disappears into the main loom alongside it, then that wire should be soldered to the shielding. The other end is already earthed.
Have you got the banjo-shaped amplifier earth connected under the rearmost fixing bolt, and made sure the amp casing is cleaned and makes a good earth for that wire?
Check your HT leads are correctly connected, as Baxtor mentioned.
Greg
Someone wanna verify this for me? This is how I pulled them off originally one by one and marked them on the paper and how I put them back. I just pulled them all off the dizzy and waiting for clarification. The knocking sound sounds as if it is coming from the 5a 5b area. So I am going to try to use some curved needle nose pliers to try and make sure I have the boots on the plugs tomorrow and wait to see if you guys agree with my wires.
I looked up the firing order and saw the pic I have below mine. It is a little different. Is the lower pic the right order?
I drew the pic as if it was on the dizzy. positions of vac tubes are correct. Bottom of my pic I meant to say 4B not 4 A.
I am not sure of the 1A being dead center on this one as it doesn't show the vac tubes... This is why I say it is different.
Last edited by Metaxalone; 05-07-2016 at 09:06 PM.
Plug lead 1A is at about the 11 o' clock position if the radiator centre is 12 o' clock. If you look carefully at the outside of the dizzy cap just near the 1A lead post, you should see a tiny "1" cast into the plastic. This is where plug lead 1A goes. Your diagram looks OK to me, but the above test will prove it.
But what on earth did you mean by this sentence?
" Bottom of my pic I meant to say 4B not 4 A."
It means, in the pic that I drew in pen, the b bank, for some reason I put 4A but I meant to put 4B. lol
As for your 11 o' clock test of the 1 marker, I will look but I didn't see anything while I had it in my hands before I put it on. I have tomorrow off so I am going to be doing the other wiring better by doing some soldering and such.
Got it!!! Penned version has two "4A's)!!!
Tear that one up, destroy it and delete it. confusion maker....
Start from "scratch" and recheck the rotor location and it's relation to the firing TDC. Then the order of the wires around the cap in the proper direction of rotation.
Ok so I redid all of my plug wires and so forth. I connected the wires on the ignition amp correctly as well as grounded the shielding to the negative wire. Re did the connections of a couple of other wires as well, as they were kind of nasty.
The car now starts and runs but still has a rough idle with it trying to backfire when giving it gas and eventually dies.
Update, the knocking sound seems to be fixed. It is a lot quieter now. I remember there was a slight knock sound while it idled rough and it went away when the engine would actually idle fine and rev. Never the less, the knock after the plugs and wire change was bad. It has now mellowed back to normal. Also I have gotten it to die when pulling the CTS, as before it would make the engine run smoother and at a higher rpm. As of right now, when the engine is warm it doesn't want to stay running.
Another update. The ignition control amp box is pretty damn warm.
All FI are firing as I bought a mechanics stethoscope to listen for said knocking sound, so I also listened to the injectors.
I did try a trick of covering the AAV inlet from the left air box. The engine did mellow and become smooth for a couple of minutes but then went back to being rough.
Have you set up the volts on the throttle position sensor, under the capstan, and tested that part for progressive reponse as the throttle is opened (ie as the potentiometer is turned)?
If not, that is the first thing to do. You have made progress, it is just a matter of continuing slowly and carefully to get it done.
Greg
In an earlier post I was asked about the potentiometer and its values. Without going back to look, I can remember it was a lil high at idle with a .58 or something like that and pretty close to normal at WOT with 4.50 or something like that.
While turning it, it seemed smooth. When I say smooth I mean that it went up from .58 to 4.50 pretty fast but in moderation with upwards jumps in numbers. The numbers weren't all over the place or up and down while turning the capstan.
How do you adjust it? Take cap off and loosen screws and turn tps to .32 then re-tighten?
I will do this tonight when I get home from work because I have given myself one more month to figure this damn thing out before I sell it. Already had it for 4 months fighting it.
Last edited by Metaxalone; 05-09-2016 at 07:52 AM.
Thanks for the confidence lol. I haven't really progressed at all. The only thing I have done is take it from a rough idle with stalling under pedal pressure to replace parts and still have the same rough idle with stalling under pedal pressure. lol
As for progression, I guess I can say I have the ability to replace things on an old XJS lol
Going out now to set the potentionmater to .32 at idle. Also have a spair potentionmeter just in case.
Ok.. Set potentionmeter to as close to .32 as I could. .36 is as close as I could get it. That thing is very sensitive...
Car still idles very rough. Also, I can tell my AAV is working because as the engine gets warmer, the amount of air sucked into the AAV inlet in the left bank air box changed.
Side note:
After all these things I have tried.. I know now it has to be some sort of fuel issue.
Why do I say that, you ask? Well I was so at a loss in trying things that I know could be the issue, I decided to spray whatever I had..In this case I had some electric connection cleaner... into the left bank air cleaner inlet. Kept it at about 10 inches from the inlet so it is disburst a lil and not so much direct.
The car idled perfectly fine and even allowed me to rev it a little.
I know the fuel pump works.
CHanged the fuel filter.
KNow the injectors ar firing. Used a stehescope on each one.
Now, I need every possible fuel delivery test to do... lol This kitty is gonna get strangled........
Now, I need every possible fuel delivery test to do... lol This kitty is gonna get strangled........
Normally I would respond by recommending to check or replace the fuel regulators but before you do that I have a question...
Have you checked or replaced ALL of the vacuum hoses? Old hoses cause small leaks. Not a lot but just enough to not allow things like the fuel regulators to not perform as they should, timing not to be advanced and poor idle. The V12 really needs to have strong vacuum signals to run smoothly.
05-03-2016, 12:43 AM
