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Its usually not that Simple so Congratulations and Well done.
Assuming both fuses are the Same, it might pay to put the Best one (cleanest one) in the Holder that operates the Pump, as its not the end of the World if the ABS fuse goes, at least you can get home like that.
Or if the Pump fuse goes, you could borrow the ABS fuse to do the same thing.
Yep - I got really lucky!
I should've taken a picture of that fuse - it was grey and rough... likely causing high resistance to the pump hence the pump wasn't getting enough current to start pumping.
Along the lines of faulty electrical contacts - Deoxit has saved me some serious time & money over the years.
Now onto the high idle problem, we currently settle at 1200 RPMs at temp and I don't think that will pass CA smog. Foremost, I have to adjust the throttle linkage first, but, I also need to look for vacuum leaks.
Do you know if there is a was to pressurize the intake so I can search for false air without the engine running?
I know the AAV probably doesn't close all the way (will test that theory tonight), but, I'd like to eliminate false air issues regardless.
I should've taken a picture of that fuse - it was grey and rough... likely causing high resistance to the pump hence the pump wasn't getting enough current to start pumping.
Along the lines of faulty electrical contacts - Deoxit has saved me some serious time & money over the years.
Now onto the high idle problem, we currently settle at 1200 RPMs at temp and I don't think that will pass CA smog. Foremost, I have to adjust the throttle linkage first, but, I also need to look for vacuum leaks.
Do you know if there is a was to pressurize the intake so I can search for false air without the engine running?
I know the AAV probably doesn't close all the way (will test that theory tonight), but, I'd like to eliminate false air issues regardless.
This is what I would do: warm up the car. Set the throttle butterfly gaps as the Great Palm explains how. Then stop the engine and block off the AAV (CAREFULLY you do not want anything sucked into the AAV/engine intake) by removing the B bank filter and blocking up the airfeed in the back plate to the AAV.
Start the car and see what the revs are. If much lower then you know the AAV is the problem. If the engine is still running too fast, stop the car, replace the intake filter and covers. Start the car and block the intake horn with your hand, first one side, then the other and listen out for a hissing etc. If necessary get a friend and block both, the ferocious hissing that transpires should help locate the leak.
In principle it is just a matter of very carefully working round the inlet manifolds and checking every single pipe on every single inlet spigot and removing each in turn and definitely blocking off each spigot and seeing what changes the revs. A pipe to the inlet can be split (eg brake servo, gearbox modulator, dizzy ventilation, and so on). Check under the A bank throttle body carefully as there is a big inlet there and the pipe is often unattached or cooked.
Grant will have a much better exact knowledge, so wait on him before starting!
Greg
This is what I would do: warm up the car. Set the throttle butterfly gaps as the Great Palm explains how. Then stop the engine and block off the AAV (CAREFULLY you do not want anything sucked into the AAV/engine intake) by removing the B bank filter and blocking up the airfeed in the back plate to the AAV.
Start the car and see what the revs are. If much lower then you know the AAV is the problem. If the engine is still running too fast, stop the car, replace the intake filter and covers. Start the car and block the intake horn with your hand, first one side, then the other and listen out for a hissing etc. If necessary get a friend and block both, the ferocious hissing that transpires should help locate the leak.
Greg
Thanks!
I checked the butterfly gaps - my 0.002" gauge barely went in at the top and bottom so I'd say they are set correctly (surprisingly). The rest of the linkage components also looked to be set right.
Then I started the car and I blocked the AAV entrance pipe at the left side air filter with my thumb. The RPMs went down quite a bit. This confirms the AAV is an issue.
Any recommendations per a re-builder for the AAV? I found the Ebay guy...
I checked the butterfly gaps - my 0.002" gauge barely went in at the top and bottom so I'd say they are set correctly (surprisingly). The rest of the linkage components also looked to be set right.
Then I started the car and I blocked the AAV entrance pipe at the left side air filter with my thumb. The RPMs went down quite a bit. This confirms the AAV is an issue.
Any recommendations per a re-builder for the AAV? I found the Ebay guy...
Mike
Hi Mike
Grant (aka 'The Wizard of Oz')
Has a done PDF of how to rebuild it.
If you send him a PM, I'm sure he'll send you one.
Before you begin following Grant's excellent instructions for rebuilding the AAV, first try soaking the AAV in an appropriate solvent overnight. I was able to get mine working properly this way, which saved having to tear it apart.
Also, before you attack the AAV order a replacement gasket and the 90 degree hose that attaches to it. They are very inexpensive and you'll likely find the hose very stiff and in need of replacement.
Its usually not that Simple so Congratulations and Well done.
Assuming both fuses are the Same, it might pay to put the Best one (cleanest one) in the Holder that operates the Pump, as its not the end of the World if the ABS fuse goes, at least you can get home like that.
Or if the Pump fuse goes, you could borrow the ABS fuse to do the same thing.
In principle it is just a matter of very carefully working round the inlet manifolds and checking every single pipe on every single inlet spigot and removing each in turn and definitely blocking off each spigot and seeing what changes the revs. A pipe to the inlet can be split (eg brake servo, gearbox modulator, dizzy ventilation, and so on). Check under the A bank throttle body carefully as there is a big inlet there and the pipe is often unattached or cooked.
Thanks Greg,
Maybe someone can suggest an engine layout reference to use here.
Does "A bank" = passenger's side (LHD vehicle)? Someone ID the area in the attached diagram?
I had some time during lunch to poke around and got the following results after letting the car warm up:
- with my hand blocking the driver's side intake horn, the idle speed went slightly down and I heard a faint hissing from the rubber tube connecting the balance tube between the banks of the engine. I tightened the worm clamps and the hissing stopped. Idle is still just under 1200RPM.
- I then moved over to the passenger's side and tired the same experiment, however, there was very little suction from the intake horn? Is this normal?
Maybe someone can suggest an engine layout reference to use here.
Does "A bank" = passenger's side (LHD vehicle)? Someone ID the area in the attached diagram?
I had some time during lunch to poke around and got the following results after letting the car warm up:
- with my hand blocking the driver's side intake horn, the idle speed went slightly down and I heard a faint hissing from the rubber tube connecting the balance tube between the banks of the engine. I tightened the worm clamps and the hissing stopped. Idle is still just under 1200RPM.
- I then moved over to the passenger's side and tired the same experiment, however, there was very little suction from the intake horn? Is this normal?
Thanks,
Mike
Just a bit of a Shot in the dark but have you checked the Air Filter elements in case one is blocked?
Just a bit of a Shot in the dark but have you checked the Air Filter elements in case one is blocked?
Hi Orange,
Yeah, I pulled off the passengers side air box and removed the air filter. I then took a look at the throttle plate opening and closing (as I adjusted the throttle linkage) while the engine was running. Some suction, not nearly as much as the driver's side.... but the engine sounds good.
I have a theory here - the balance tube is feeding the passenger's bank with air since my AAV won't close all the way... ???
On a related topic, do these cars have a "limp home mode"? Where the engine shuts down a bank if there is a lot of false detonation (high knock count)? Maybe the knock sensors are dead... but, there is no check engine light and both exhaust pipes are pushing out exhaust fairly well. I know the plug wires need to be replaced (I have a set on order).
Yeah, I pulled off the passengers side air box and removed the air filter. I then took a look at the throttle plate opening and closing (as I adjusted the throttle linkage) while the engine was running. Some suction, not nearly as much as the driver's side.... but the engine sounds good.
I have a theory here - the balance tube is feeding the passenger's bank with air since my AAV won't close all the way... ???
On a related topic, do these cars have a "limp home mode"? Where the engine shuts down a bank if there is a lot of false detonation (high knock count)? Maybe the knock sensors are dead... but, there is no check engine light and both exhaust pipes are pushing out exhaust fairly well. I know the plug wires need to be replaced (I have a set on order).
Mike
Yeah, there is a limp home mode, if one of the Power Banks Shuts down, it's called shutting off the Engine, as quick as you can and standing by with a Fire Extinguisher.
If a Power Bank Shuts down unexpectedly, even if the Car is still running on Six Cylinders, you could be looking at a Marelli ignition Fire.
As the Bank that is Shut down, will still be pumping unburned Petrol/Gas into a Red Hot Exhaust, which could very quickly have the Car bursting into Flames.
As half the distributor runs one bank and the other half runs the other, so if you get a problem with the distributor or the rotor inside it, then it can cause a short right through the distributor cap and shut a bank down.
There is a Fix to help prevent this happening, which is to remove the distributor cap and put some Silicone Sealant in the Top of the Cap, where the rod goes into the hole.
I will see if I can find the post that someone did with photo's before you have a go at doing that.
Also have you got 'Cats' have you checked the end of the Cats for Blockages, which may have come from a previous Marelli (near) fire problem.
If you are going to get New Leads, then you may as well go the Full nine yards and get a New distributor Cap and Rotor as well.
If your engine is knocking, it does sound like you could be close to a Marelli ignition fire.
Here is an excellent post by Safari on how to prevent that happening.
Has the idle switch adjustment on the LHS throttle linkage been checked?
Sorry to repeat this question but l couldn't find a response in the thread.
Hi Baxtor,
Mechanically it looks right, but I have not checked it electrically. I do hear the TPS click when I open the throttle, but, can you point to directions on how to make sure the TPS ohms out correctly?
Mechanically it looks right, but I have not checked it electrically. I do hear the TPS click when I open the throttle, but, can you point to directions on how to make sure the TPS ohms out correctly?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike, l mean the micro switch on the back of the LH manifold.
While the engine is running try depressing the switch and see if it makes a difference. It should be adjusted to just depress the switch as the throttle settles at the closed position.
The A side is the right side of the car as viewed from the rear of the car. The Brits drive from that side, hence A is the right side, and B is the left
- Idle issue solved! I have a nice, consistent idle at 675-700 RPM when the engine is warm. I pulled out the AAV and measured the distance to the piston. The distance was about 75mm. I then "squeezed" the bulb with a large set of pliers and got the distance down to 70mm. I then placed the bulb in boiling water and saw that the piston fully closed the gap! I then re-installed, got to temperature and the adjusted the idle screw.
- Next step is a smog check. I think wire 1B is arcing so I'm going to replace all the wires prior to the test.
- When I go over bumps, I hear a knock (metal on metal sounds) from the front passengers side suspension/steering stuff... can someone recommend a good thread (with pictures if possible) on how to replace the necessary bushings/suspension items?
- When I go over bumps, I hear a knock (metal on metal sounds) from the front passengers side suspension/steering stuff... can someone recommend a good thread (with pictures if possible) on how to replace the necessary bushings/suspension items?
Regards,
Mike
I'd check the upper shock bushings on that side as the likely culprit. Here's one thread on it. It's worth replacing both sides when you do them.
Another issue that came up today was the Check Engine Light and code FF34.
Does this fault code indicate a faulty O2 sensor (A bank), or a faulty injectors (A bank)? Its unclear from some of the posts I'm reading which fault it is.
Prior to the test I cleaned the O2 sensor and the check engine light didn't come back after cleaning. However, I think the root cause is an exhaust leak on the manifold connection (passenger's side) so I have a set of new gaskets on order. Nice that the car passed even with the leak!
02-22-2016, 05:02 PM
