"New" XJS. Just a couple "quick questions"
#1
03-20-2014, 12:26 PM
"New" XJS. Just a couple "quick questions"
I'm familiar with the search function so please don't get too upset with these questions:
I just bought a '77 XJS last night. I've had my 96 XJ6 for a little while now and nearly have it in what I would consider finished state...not perfect but looking phenomenal for her age.....I've been looking at the XJS line for a little while and when this one showed up on Craigslist at the price it did, I just couldn't help myself......
Having said that, she needs a bit of work; gas smell that will knock you out if you drive it with the windows up...coming from trunk of course, sputtering and shuddering badly in idle, some dash cracking and door panel cracking, temp gauge isn't registering (scary), tach isn't working, brakes are barely present/pedal fluttering, left turn signal isn't lighting on dash, boot lid won't latch after I opened it moments ago.
I'm taking it to a new garage monday to let them do a compression test (fingers crossed) and then if all is well there start on firstly getting to running smoothly and stopping the same.
Any advice based on what I've shared?
I just bought a '77 XJS last night. I've had my 96 XJ6 for a little while now and nearly have it in what I would consider finished state...not perfect but looking phenomenal for her age.....I've been looking at the XJS line for a little while and when this one showed up on Craigslist at the price it did, I just couldn't help myself......
Having said that, she needs a bit of work; gas smell that will knock you out if you drive it with the windows up...coming from trunk of course, sputtering and shuddering badly in idle, some dash cracking and door panel cracking, temp gauge isn't registering (scary), tach isn't working, brakes are barely present/pedal fluttering, left turn signal isn't lighting on dash, boot lid won't latch after I opened it moments ago.
I'm taking it to a new garage monday to let them do a compression test (fingers crossed) and then if all is well there start on firstly getting to running smoothly and stopping the same.
Any advice based on what I've shared?
#2
03-20-2014, 01:30 PM
I'm a long way from being any kind of expert on cars in general and XJS's in particular, but having owned my daily driver '91 XJS coupe for over two years and reading this forum regularly I've learned a few things I can pass on.
First - check the simple and obvious things - bulbs, sockets, connectors, fuses, relays. Test and clean everything with a good contact cleaner (I use CRC QD Contact Cleaner). Often previously dead features and functions will come back to life after doing this. If you have a manual, you'll see there are fuse holders and relays all over your car. If you don't, you can look up the locations from various sources online.
Slightly more involved but well worth the time is cleaning and re-securing all ground points. Specific instructions are elsewhere in this forum. Basically remove, clean to bare metal, reconnect, apply protective coating (dielectric grease, Vaseline, etc.).
How's your battery? Test and charge. I use an old DieHard Battery Charger/Maintainer when the weather is cold or I need to do any electrical work on my car.
A pulsing brake pedal likely means new front brakes, but you were going to check them anyway...
The turn signal out may be as simple as a bad bulb, dirty socket, or loose/corroded/broken wire connection. If the right turn signal works, the turn signal relay is fine (but cleaning it couldn't hurt). Could also be the left indicator bulb is shot, but that seems less likely.
There's a lot of more involved things you can do yourself if you have the space/time/tools/determination, but if not, make sure you have a good mechanic and a good source of disposable income.
These cars can be a real challenge to work on, but that only makes the reward of driving one that much sweeter.
First - check the simple and obvious things - bulbs, sockets, connectors, fuses, relays. Test and clean everything with a good contact cleaner (I use CRC QD Contact Cleaner). Often previously dead features and functions will come back to life after doing this. If you have a manual, you'll see there are fuse holders and relays all over your car. If you don't, you can look up the locations from various sources online.
Slightly more involved but well worth the time is cleaning and re-securing all ground points. Specific instructions are elsewhere in this forum. Basically remove, clean to bare metal, reconnect, apply protective coating (dielectric grease, Vaseline, etc.).
How's your battery? Test and charge. I use an old DieHard Battery Charger/Maintainer when the weather is cold or I need to do any electrical work on my car.
A pulsing brake pedal likely means new front brakes, but you were going to check them anyway...
The turn signal out may be as simple as a bad bulb, dirty socket, or loose/corroded/broken wire connection. If the right turn signal works, the turn signal relay is fine (but cleaning it couldn't hurt). Could also be the left indicator bulb is shot, but that seems less likely.
There's a lot of more involved things you can do yourself if you have the space/time/tools/determination, but if not, make sure you have a good mechanic and a good source of disposable income.
These cars can be a real challenge to work on, but that only makes the reward of driving one that much sweeter.
The following 2 users liked this post by inertian:
Andyevsco (07-02-2014),
Dan Bennett (03-20-2014)
#3
03-20-2014, 04:35 PM
Veteran Member
Fuel smell could be soaked carpet. The fuel filter is behind the spare wheel and if the filter has been replaced with the carpet in place it could be soaked with fuel. Remove the all the boot carpet and spare wheel then check for leaks, there a quite a few hose and pipes attached to the tank LH side near the fuel filler and RH side above the swirl tank.
The sputtering could be she is not firing on all cylinders. To find this remove ALL fuel injector connectors from one bank leaving them on the other, start the car and remove them one at a time listening for a change in engine idle and sound. If the cylinder is firing the idle should drop slightly and the engine will run a little rougher, if you remove one and there is no change then that cylinder is not firing. Do the same for the other side.
Temp gauge sender is on the RH water rail behind the thermostat it should have 1 wire connected to it. Also with the gauges bad earthing from the cluster to the body is very common and causes all sorts of gauge issues.
The sputtering could be she is not firing on all cylinders. To find this remove ALL fuel injector connectors from one bank leaving them on the other, start the car and remove them one at a time listening for a change in engine idle and sound. If the cylinder is firing the idle should drop slightly and the engine will run a little rougher, if you remove one and there is no change then that cylinder is not firing. Do the same for the other side.
Temp gauge sender is on the RH water rail behind the thermostat it should have 1 wire connected to it. Also with the gauges bad earthing from the cluster to the body is very common and causes all sorts of gauge issues.
#4
03-21-2014, 02:37 AM
Veteran Member
There is an excellent chance the fuel smell is a perforated tank bottom assisted by flexible lines that are shot. There is also an excellent chance the ignition system is going home on a pre HE of that age.
Brakes will need new flexibles, pads, calipers and discs all round, and a new master cylinder.
Good luck
Greg
Brakes will need new flexibles, pads, calipers and discs all round, and a new master cylinder.
Good luck
Greg
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