Rear End Rebuild
#21
12-04-2011, 08:13 AM
I took me weeks to strip the underneath, but I had water ingress into the boot, in the lower rear sills on the outside of the muffler tunnel both sides. This only happened when driving not when the car sat in the rain, so the water had to be coming from underneath. I eventually found it was coming in at the top of the wheel arch where the inner and outer guards are spot welded. I might end up cutting the inner guard out and putting a new piece in, this will serve two purposes as I want to run 17x10 rear wheels I can widen the inner.
I cut the cups off because I had a bolt snap in one of them. The bolt had to drilled out and the cup re-tapped. I also wanted to take a look at the metal underneath, fortunately it was all good no rust in the body.
I have not welded the cups back on yet as I need the diff to line everything up.
I inadvertently cut through the chassis rail on the right so had to weld a new piece in there. So I thought I would strengthen the radius arm mount. The cups will be welded to 2mm plate which will then be fixed to the car with rivets and welded.
You can see the new plate I made in the pic, the self tappers are temporary to hold it in place they will be replaced by rivets.
I cut the cups off because I had a bolt snap in one of them. The bolt had to drilled out and the cup re-tapped. I also wanted to take a look at the metal underneath, fortunately it was all good no rust in the body.
I have not welded the cups back on yet as I need the diff to line everything up.
I inadvertently cut through the chassis rail on the right so had to weld a new piece in there. So I thought I would strengthen the radius arm mount. The cups will be welded to 2mm plate which will then be fixed to the car with rivets and welded.
You can see the new plate I made in the pic, the self tappers are temporary to hold it in place they will be replaced by rivets.
Please see what I had to deal with, here, in moist america.
I went with original part from southern donor, without any major modifications. I think these two sections are meant to give, in case of major impact?
#22
12-04-2011, 01:37 PM
Hi Mish, that is a pretty common place for them to rust. We are lucky down under as it does not get cold enough to snow much so we don't have salt on the roads to rust the cars out. My XJS was a 2 owner and been in the guys barn for 9 years in the Queensland outback so almost no rust, just loads of red dirt.
#24
12-19-2011, 02:28 PM
Ok, not too much to update except I bought an complete XJ40 rear end for the 3.58 gears. I have been worried about the 4.09's being too short. So I bought this for $40.00 and as luck would have it the diff is a Powerlok so the complete hemisphere can be changed out into my diff. The pinion is different and will need some slight modifications, but I have told by a guy who builds Jag diffs that it will fit.
The other bonus is the outboard brakes. The guy I bought this from is the owner of the XJS TT race car I posted the pics of in the TT thread. He told me that XJ40 hubs and driveshafts were used to convert the race car to OB brakes whoohoo.
The large round spacers in the pic go between the driveshaft and diff drive flange where the IB rotors would be. The calipers are single piston so I'll have to see if I can mate the XJS twin piston calipers to the hub with a bracket. The only other thing is to modify the handbrake luckily the ROM has a drawing of the OB XJS rear with handbrake setup, so this should not be too difficult.
The other bonus is the outboard brakes. The guy I bought this from is the owner of the XJS TT race car I posted the pics of in the TT thread. He told me that XJ40 hubs and driveshafts were used to convert the race car to OB brakes whoohoo.
The large round spacers in the pic go between the driveshaft and diff drive flange where the IB rotors would be. The calipers are single piston so I'll have to see if I can mate the XJS twin piston calipers to the hub with a bracket. The only other thing is to modify the handbrake luckily the ROM has a drawing of the OB XJS rear with handbrake setup, so this should not be too difficult.
#25
12-19-2011, 05:42 PM
#26
12-19-2011, 07:02 PM
The housing will not fit the XJS cradle as the mounts are totally different.
This is not the smaller 14HU it is the stronger 15HU and as heavy as the original 4HU out of my XJS. It's a big bugger.
cheers
Warren
#27
12-23-2011, 10:37 PM
Nearly done, my diff guy will have the diff finished as soon as he comes back from xmas break.
Undercarriage almost finished, I need to weld the radius arm cups back on, paint the plate you can just see in the first pic then clean the rest of the pipes.
A plethora of parts powder coated and ready to go back together that once were the rear end. Hubs rebuilt - although I will most likely install the outboard disk hubs and driveshafts, but these need a bit of work first.
Undercarriage almost finished, I need to weld the radius arm cups back on, paint the plate you can just see in the first pic then clean the rest of the pipes.
A plethora of parts powder coated and ready to go back together that once were the rear end. Hubs rebuilt - although I will most likely install the outboard disk hubs and driveshafts, but these need a bit of work first.
#28
12-29-2011, 11:34 PM
Rebuild just keeps gettin bigger
Got bored today so decided to strip the rear calipers re-paint them and install new seals. Could not get the seals as my guy is not back till next Tuesday so pulled the fuel tank and gave it a clean. It really wasn't too bad.
This is all of the crud that came out of the swirl pot, not much at all really. Inside the main tank was clean. I'll replace the under tank pad and I have turned the rivet over so it doesn't rub the tank any more. The rivet has rubbed the paint off but it is not too bad. What were Jaguar thinking when they riveted the vacuum pipe under the fuel tank, all they had to do was turn the bracket 180° and it probably would not have rubbed at all.
I am going to give the in tank coating a try in the swirl pot and see how it goes, there is a little rust in there. Also planning to move the fuel filter under the car so I don't fill the boot with fuel every time I replace the filter.
This is all of the crud that came out of the swirl pot, not much at all really. Inside the main tank was clean. I'll replace the under tank pad and I have turned the rivet over so it doesn't rub the tank any more. The rivet has rubbed the paint off but it is not too bad. What were Jaguar thinking when they riveted the vacuum pipe under the fuel tank, all they had to do was turn the bracket 180° and it probably would not have rubbed at all.
I am going to give the in tank coating a try in the swirl pot and see how it goes, there is a little rust in there. Also planning to move the fuel filter under the car so I don't fill the boot with fuel every time I replace the filter.
#29
01-08-2012, 04:40 AM
#30
01-09-2012, 02:37 PM
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