I had a recent post demonstrating garbage aftermarket parts where my aftermarket rear radius arm bushings were destroyed after 2000 miles.

Well, I've got a clunk in the front suspension--which I hate--and while under the car I looked at the bushings installed in front end. All have about 2000 miles on them and are at most 2 years old, the first 1 1/2 year installed on a non-drivable car. The front subframe mounts are tearing, the aftermarket sway bar mounts are cracked, and I don't even want to think about wishbone bushings.

So, in a fit of obsessive/compulsive rage I ordered all new OEM subframe and suspension bushings and balljoints, as well as another steering rack (mine has a slight "grab" when returning to center from a right turn) and plan on dropping the front end of the car again. FML.

DO NOT BUY ANY AFTERMARKET SUSPENSION OR SUBFRAME BUSHINGS.
DO NOT BUY ANY AFTERMARKET SUSPENSION OR SUBFRAME BUSHINGS.
DO NOT BUY ANY AFTERMARKET SUSPENSION OR SUBFRAME BUSHINGS.

 

I had exactly that same experience. Metalastic only.

 

I have been collecting suspension parts for the last year to tackle replacing all the front bushings and the rear trailing arm and subframe mounts. You have given me pause to rethink what I have purchased. upper and lower ball joints are OEM, but the rest of the parts??? I have not started the project because I have not found any of the front and rear springs and I am not happy with the KYB front shocks I installed. what I really love about this car is the ride and I don't want to screw that up. I have a factory rear sway bar to install and will replace the front with a sport pack size bar. I do like to push it around corners just a little.

 

Get all Metalstic brand rubbers and bushes, this is the OEM maker. D Manners has them all. Also get Boge shocks all round, these some of the least expensive and are the OEM ones, and again with them and the right brand bushes the ride and handling will be exactly as it should be.
Greg

 

I agree with Greg and would emphasize my original post. Regardless of how much money you've spent already, go buy OEM bushings and subframe mounts. I am so sorry that I didn't realize the seriousness of this advice earlier. And to be clear, this is not like the dealer saying, "OEM is best" this is a real world user with parts that are literally failing, not even like wearing out prematurely. Outright failure.

 

Would it make sense to use polybushes instead?

My front axle rubbers are all the lower priced ones. As I won't be ready for a while yet, I'm leaving them as is but want to get the parts in so I can do it all when due...

I'm no big fan as they can squeak but are they more durable?

 

I had an older 5.0 mustang that had some poly bushes in it. They squeaked (like you said) and also I had one destroy itself.

So, I wouldn't risk it except on a part that could be easily replaced (like sway bar ends).

 

Thanks to all for the information. I did get poly bushes for the sway bar and steering rack. Ordered, through Jag, all the nuts, bolts, and washers in the front end suspension. Now looking for new upper and lower control arm shafts and will start pricing Boge shocks. As a side note I replaced the front shocks on my wife's 99 XJ8L with KYB and she has complained about the ride ever since.

 

Can you name names? Is there an issue with URO bushings?

 

Lots of mixed review on the internet. Mostly bad on BMW and MB forums. But some good reviews elsewhere.

A pal of used Uro bushings his Jag a few years ago and had no problems....although the car has been driven only 20-30k miles so it may be too soon to tell

Lots of people say, essentially, "might be worth a try...but not in applications that are labor intensive".......which is repeated here

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-parts-137624/


Cheers
DD

 

So far in disassembly I've found:
-both front subframe mounts were cracked, looks like maybe 1/3 way through
-both bottom ball joints, with 2000 miles, feel like the ball joints I just took off my Infiniti Q45 with 201k miles.
-one slightly cracked upper wishbone mount

Surprisingly, the bottom wishbone mounts didn't look too bad, some slight separation between the rubber and center metal support.

 

At least you have got to them Andy, and your experience precisely mirrors mine. May I suggest that you must not be tempted to skip replacing the bottom WB bushes, pain that they are, once it is all fine, with Metalastic parts, it will stay fine for decades, and it will feel, corner and steer night and day better than before.
Greg

 

I am currently restoring a 1970 Cutlass Pace Car and have tried to avoid after market prts as much as possible. Your right, they just make junk these days, there should be a law....

 

I did replace them. For exactly the reasons you stated.

 

i posted this a bit ago, pix of bar bushings poly type about 2/3 years old!

i now use MOOG parts for bushings!

 

Moog is pretty widely accepted as good stuff.

There are loads of poly bushings, silicone cooling hoses, and other 'trick wazzoo, double throw down' parts being sold that are junky. Originally, ages ago, a lot of this stuff was legitimate but suffered the fate of 'becoming all the rage'. When something becomes all the rage you can bet your bottom dollar that every shyster and his brother will start producing a low-grade version.

I well remember the beginnings of the silicone hose thing. In the 80s and 90s Mustangs, Impalas, and Camaros were offered with 'police packages' that included lots of neato upgrades. Everything was heavy duty, high durability... and silicone cooling hoses were part of the deal. Somebody discovered this stuff and found out you could order it from your local dealer. Soon enough everybody just *had* to have silicone cooling hoses; that was the trick thing; standard hoses were simply not tolerable. It didn't take long for the aftermarket to see the demand and...well...you know the rest.

I'm sure we can all name numerous other examples.

Cheers
DD

 

Further inquiry discovered:
-loose inner tie rods, no perceptible movement but no resistance in spinning inside of the socket.
-previously purchased aftermarket motor mounts allowed a great deal of vibration into cabin, (new ones installed and engine is noticeably smoother)