Of course the rust is removed, it could not be otherwise. The main rust was in the guide for fastening door seal, remove the damaged part guide, clean the surface of the metal oxide. Welding repair small holes removing the guide, weld the new guide, apply a special product for protecion against rust, paint and mount the door seal.

 

 

Javier
May I suggest, also, that you drill two or three holes under where the door footplate will go, and use a pressure spray and a probe to treat the inside of the sill also? After the rust converter, I also suggest you spray in some anti rust paint and then some wax, perhaps. There are baffle plates inside the sill, but you can work a probe through them. It is also a good idea to do the same from the end plates either end of the sill.
Greg

 

I had thought when I finish all the work of bodywork give a new layer of stone chip protection all underbody, also will try to enter into that area where this I have repaired.

 

Javier
The sills rot as much from the inside out, as from the outside inwards. SAme with the floorpans. I attach a couple of photos. One shows the inside of a sill that was in good shape, but you can see rust starting on the seam inside. The second photo shows the end top of the sill where it is hidden by the front wing (which just unbolts). Same story, that is why getting something inside is so important. Both these areas had protection on the outside. Your underbody protection stuff is a good idea, but it will not help the inside to outside rust problem. This is the sort of apparatus I have, and it works really well. The advantage of this is that it can spray paint and rust killer as well
Professional Rust Proofing / Wax Injection Gun for Underseal & Waxoyl etc WS1 | eBay
Alternatively, you can buy Bilt Hamber aerosols with a probe.
Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 - Extreme Duty Anti-Corrosion Wax 750ml Spray Can & Lance | eBay
or these sort that work with compressed air
3 X DINITROL HS3125 RUST PROOFING CAVITY WAX 1 LITRE SCHUTZ STYLE CAP + SPRAYGUN | eBay
Being from England I am totally paranoid about rust (not such a problem in Spain I realise!) and I had to rebuild my lovely XJS because of it. I am a great believer in this stuff, also, which is absolutely fantastic as a preventer of rust. With anti-rust paint afterwards, and then wax on the top, rust will never return!
Aquasteel ? rust treatment, rust converter for cars, ship rust treatment paint, anti rust treatment, rust water treatment, metal rust treatment, rust treatment products, rust remover
Greg

 

Hello, before starting to dismantle anything I wanted to ask here if anyone has been the same in your car and as it has solved, is that the odometers both partial and total adds up more or less double the reality. The speedometer if you check well the speed at which traffic moves.
Thank you for your help.

 

I think your car has a cable driven mechanical speedo. This was later changed to an electronically driven speedo. If the speedo reads too fast, most likely someone has replaced the cable drive gear in the gearbox with one with the wrong number of teeth. It is always possible that the speedo itself has developed a fault. There are firms in the UK who can fix speedos, if it is a faulty head.
Greg

 

Photos as has been the car after all the restoration work , has kept the original painting with its flaws but having become a polished and waxed.

 

looks PURRTY,, love the glass headlights, never get yellow!!

 

javier its sunday morning in a bleak and wet england. I was really cheered up when l saw your restoration of your lovely 1978 jaguar xjs. I read your progress you have made on the car and think its brillant. I have owned five xjs 's over the years with two being manual four speed pre xjs the first was a 1977 white with biscuit upholstery this car started out in british racing green but a previous owner changed the colour. The second was in squadron blue with biscuit upholstery l have to be honest l spent more time working on them than ever driving them. I later went on to a HE xjs which was never troublesome. I would love another, but the price of classic cars now in england has gone silly l actually sold my xjs because at the time l was spending in Spain!. I love the spanish climate the people, the culture and one day hope to return indefinitely but thats another story. Please javier can you tell me of how you found the car. Was it placed in the compound by the authorities abandoned by english patriots who had lost interest a fellow jaguar enthusiast etc or was it by chance you came across it my ambition is to drive across europe italy france etc in an xjs manual take in the sights and really chill out and end up in spain. At the moment l run a classic ford escort not in the same vain as the xjs but would still love an xjs to run alongside it.

 

Hello, I'm sorry I did not respond before but I had not seen your message and now that I was going to update the situation with the car I've seen it.
I do not speak English very well, but I want to understand that you would like to find an XJ-S manual to travel with him through continental Europe and he wants to know how I got the car.
As you know it is very difficult to find XJ-S manual for the original factory for sale and in acceptable conditions, but recently I was about to buy another XJ-S manual that went on sale in the north of Spain, the car was in very Good body and interior conditions, the engine had not worked for many years but the salesman ensured that the car when kept in a garage, worked. In addition, the car, according to the seller, had the peculiarity that its first owner was a Spanish character known all over the world, the opera singer José Carreras (one of "Los 3 tenores"). At the end, another interested buyer got ahead of me and did not buy it. It was a disappointment not to get the car.
Mine bought it from a junk car that had it in its plot outdoors for a couple of years but the car belonged to a friend of yours who kept it stored in a garage for several years without using it. The car no longer started because of the long time it had taken. The owner of the car sold the garage where the car was stored and ordered his friend the dealer to get it out and sell the car but they were asking for a high price and it was not sold. I made them an offer downwards from what they were asking at the beginning to which they accepted and closed the deal.
Right now there is another similar car for sale in Spain, if I have seen one in the Czech Republic and another in Italy for sale but need a restoration.

https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/j...695b?cldtidx=5

https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/j...ab1?cldtidx=15

 

Hello, after a while I will put a little update on the progress made in recent months for the solution of certain problems that remained unrepaired since I have the vehicle. The engine despite having a good performance and have checked the good compression in the cylinders, oil pressure and made the obligatory changes of oil, filters, coolant, spark plugs etc ... verify that after leaving with the shell to do some How many kilometers to park it again, soon there was a spot of oil on the ground at the height of the oil filter and see that most came from the rear of the camshaft cover and the union of the support of this with The butt and the head on the bench A. It also had small losses from the crankcase gaskets. I put a few photos of progress and continue to narrate.

 

 

 

Anyone know why this may have happened in some tappets?











There are only a few broken on bench B

 

Valve adjustment was correct on all valves.

 

Javier
Thanks for posting the great photos. Tappet damage: I would guess oil starvation is the reason. Check all the oilways are clear and that the feed from the oil gallery to the casting at the back of the V (large external pipe from the oil filter area) and the passages in the casting itself, and the pipes to each cam from the casting are all clear. Also check the O rings in the oil feed and return pipes inside the engine under the sump and sandwich plate are renewed. Also that the oil pump is OK and the filter head is clear and not blocked.
Greg

 

Owning an old Jaguar V12 and driving it is a labour of love.

 

Thanks Greg for your advice. In reassembling the engine I will make all those checks that you advise. Before removing the engine the oil pressure was very good and produced no extraneous noise from the distribution or any other type. I removed the engine from the body to change all the seals as it had oil leaks, replace all the cooling sleeves and thermostats, apply a ceramic coating to the exhaust manifolds, check the clutch, gearbox, replace distribution chain , Replace the oil cooler and hoses, clean cooling radiator, check the electrical wiring of the motor mounting new hose resistant to high temperatures, replace a / c condenser and all hoses and taking advantage of the engine is off I will thoroughly clean the Compartment, repairing damages. By the way also will mount the 24 new tappets.

 

All very sensible things, particularly replacing the tappets. Another reason for the damage could be that that the case hardening on some of them has failed.
Greg