Swap out Spark Plugs on HE
#1
10-09-2016, 09:47 PM
Swap out Spark Plugs on HE
G'day guys. My apologies if there is a similar thread already.
I am just about to swap out my spark plugs for the first time on the ole girl (1985 HE V12) and I am just after some pointers before I dive in.
I'm not going in completely dark as I have already gotten some good advice from a few mates.I don't have the cruise control bellows on mine so don't need to take that off. I know about the AC compressor off to get the last two plugs.
My plan was to swap out all 12 plugs and each lead as well as a matter of good practice.
I also have a new coil with the Single Coil set up.
Dizzy I have not yet touched.
Ok so that is about all I know...
Now just a few questions/confirmations:
1) Best suited spark plug to use? I have been told NGK BP6EF but also BR7EFS or the later BR7EF. Also Champion BN5's or equivalent. Any differences or any will do?
2) What type of leads do you recommend? (Silicon HT I am assuming) Not rubber?
3) Do I need to double check spark plug gap with new plugs or are they good to go for the HE those mentioned above? The Gap is 0.035 in (0.89mm) correct?
4) You have to take off the Capstan throttle linkage and all correct?
5) Any special tools or methods you guys recommend?
Well thanks again...I appreciate your guys help as always.
Update: I just re-read page 8 on O.B's Cherry Blossom restoration and found some great hints in there too:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-122634/page8/
I am just about to swap out my spark plugs for the first time on the ole girl (1985 HE V12) and I am just after some pointers before I dive in.
I'm not going in completely dark as I have already gotten some good advice from a few mates.I don't have the cruise control bellows on mine so don't need to take that off. I know about the AC compressor off to get the last two plugs.
My plan was to swap out all 12 plugs and each lead as well as a matter of good practice.
I also have a new coil with the Single Coil set up.
Dizzy I have not yet touched.
Ok so that is about all I know...
Now just a few questions/confirmations:
1) Best suited spark plug to use? I have been told NGK BP6EF but also BR7EFS or the later BR7EF. Also Champion BN5's or equivalent. Any differences or any will do?
2) What type of leads do you recommend? (Silicon HT I am assuming) Not rubber?
3) Do I need to double check spark plug gap with new plugs or are they good to go for the HE those mentioned above? The Gap is 0.035 in (0.89mm) correct?
4) You have to take off the Capstan throttle linkage and all correct?
5) Any special tools or methods you guys recommend?
Well thanks again...I appreciate your guys help as always.
Update: I just re-read page 8 on O.B's Cherry Blossom restoration and found some great hints in there too:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-122634/page8/
Last edited by paulyling; 10-09-2016 at 10:53 PM.
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#2
10-09-2016, 11:28 PM
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To clarify, the compressor is unbolted and the aft end is tipped upward. Do not remove hoses
Correct gap is .025". Always check gap before installing.
I find the removing the throttle pedestal assembly is worth the little bit of extra effort but opinions vary on that
Many like Magnacore wires. On my XJS I ran the OEM "Rists" wires with no problems for the several years I owned it. My present V12 has Bosch wires which seem to work great but the car has hardly any running time with them installed
Cheers
DD
Correct gap is .025". Always check gap before installing.
I find the removing the throttle pedestal assembly is worth the little bit of extra effort but opinions vary on that
Many like Magnacore wires. On my XJS I ran the OEM "Rists" wires with no problems for the several years I owned it. My present V12 has Bosch wires which seem to work great but the car has hardly any running time with them installed
Cheers
DD
#3
10-10-2016, 12:33 AM
To clarify, the compressor is unbolted and the aft end is tipped upward. Do not remove hoses
Correct gap is .025". Always check gap before installing.
I find the removing the throttle pedestal assembly is worth the little bit of extra effort but opinions vary on that
Many like Magnacore wires. On my XJS I ran the OEM "Rists" wires with no problems for the several years I owned it. My present V12 has Bosch wires which seem to work great but the car has hardly any running time with them installed
Cheers
DD
Correct gap is .025". Always check gap before installing.
I find the removing the throttle pedestal assembly is worth the little bit of extra effort but opinions vary on that
Many like Magnacore wires. On my XJS I ran the OEM "Rists" wires with no problems for the several years I owned it. My present V12 has Bosch wires which seem to work great but the car has hardly any running time with them installed
Cheers
DD
#4
10-10-2016, 01:51 AM
Veteran Member
I have Magnacore 8mm leads, apart from having to add a capacitor to my stereo they work fine.
Reason for the capacitor is the 8mm leads are lower in resistance, a good thing for the ignition system but can be more noisy (electrically), depending where the power (thats 12volts) loom runs. Parallel with a HT lead is bad for noise.
#5
10-10-2016, 02:21 AM
Cheers guys. Ok well I made the first steps...
Firstly I confirmed my cylinders correspond to the layout in the Haynes workshop manual which it did. Then I labeled each one, 1A, 1B etc...
I took out the capstan and bracket to get access to cylinders 5 & 6 on each side.
Next I pulled the plugs except for 1A & 1B (Compressor tomorrow).
Next I have to go get a spark plug puller, a feeler gauge, never-seize (for when I put the new ones in) and of course order the plugs and leads (JAGDAIM here in Oz).
One minor hiccup is some of the leads had alot of suction and the metal clip inside remained on the spark plug
(see pic). Oh well I am doing new leads anyway..
Firstly I confirmed my cylinders correspond to the layout in the Haynes workshop manual which it did. Then I labeled each one, 1A, 1B etc...
I took out the capstan and bracket to get access to cylinders 5 & 6 on each side.
Next I pulled the plugs except for 1A & 1B (Compressor tomorrow).
Next I have to go get a spark plug puller, a feeler gauge, never-seize (for when I put the new ones in) and of course order the plugs and leads (JAGDAIM here in Oz).
One minor hiccup is some of the leads had alot of suction and the metal clip inside remained on the spark plug
(see pic). Oh well I am doing new leads anyway..
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#6
10-10-2016, 02:53 AM
Yep, I told him not to use the Eagle leads, some listen, some dont.
I use Magnecor, from a mob in Sydney, Google will find them.
BP6EF is what I have used on ALL the HE engines, BUT, NGK no longer make them, BUGGA, so BPR6EF is all I will ever use on the 5.3HE.
Gap is 0.025".
Remove the distributor cap, the socket extension will be HARD up against it for 3A and 3B, and the cap will crack, and you will be sad.
I remove the throttle capstan, and the balance pipe, and leave the pedastal in place, no biggy. The first set were daunting, but after 50+ ya sorta know which way to twist and bend, and thats just the tongue.
Special tools:
Alcohol
Sense of humour
Wife and kids a LOOOOOOONG way from the work area.
Spare sockets etc, to replace the ones you WILL throw at the dog.
That is ALL before 1A and 1B are even looked at.
When you fit that Sanden compact ompresssor, the 1A and 1B are the EASIEST to remove.
Have fun mate.
I use Magnecor, from a mob in Sydney, Google will find them.
BP6EF is what I have used on ALL the HE engines, BUT, NGK no longer make them, BUGGA, so BPR6EF is all I will ever use on the 5.3HE.
Gap is 0.025".
Remove the distributor cap, the socket extension will be HARD up against it for 3A and 3B, and the cap will crack, and you will be sad.
I remove the throttle capstan, and the balance pipe, and leave the pedastal in place, no biggy. The first set were daunting, but after 50+ ya sorta know which way to twist and bend, and thats just the tongue.
Special tools:
Alcohol
Sense of humour
Wife and kids a LOOOOOOONG way from the work area.
Spare sockets etc, to replace the ones you WILL throw at the dog.
That is ALL before 1A and 1B are even looked at.
When you fit that Sanden compact ompresssor, the 1A and 1B are the EASIEST to remove.
Have fun mate.
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#7
10-10-2016, 03:41 AM
Yep, I told him not to use the Eagle leads, some listen, some dont.
I use Magnecor, from a mob in Sydney, Google will find them.
BP6EF is what I have used on ALL the HE engines, BUT, NGK no longer make them, BUGGA, so BPR6EF is all I will ever use on the 5.3HE.
Gap is 0.025".
Remove the distributor cap, the socket extension will be HARD up against it for 3A and 3B, and the cap will crack, and you will be sad.
I remove the throttle capstan, and the balance pipe, and leave the pedastal in place, no biggy. The first set were daunting, but after 50+ ya sorta know which way to twist and bend, and thats just the tongue.
Special tools:
Alcohol
Sense of humour
Wife and kids a LOOOOOOONG way from the work area.
Spare sockets etc, to replace the ones you WILL throw at the dog.
That is ALL before 1A and 1B are even looked at.
When you fit that Sanden compact ompresssor, the 1A and 1B are the EASIEST to remove.
Have fun mate.
I use Magnecor, from a mob in Sydney, Google will find them.
BP6EF is what I have used on ALL the HE engines, BUT, NGK no longer make them, BUGGA, so BPR6EF is all I will ever use on the 5.3HE.
Gap is 0.025".
Remove the distributor cap, the socket extension will be HARD up against it for 3A and 3B, and the cap will crack, and you will be sad.
I remove the throttle capstan, and the balance pipe, and leave the pedastal in place, no biggy. The first set were daunting, but after 50+ ya sorta know which way to twist and bend, and thats just the tongue.
Special tools:
Alcohol
Sense of humour
Wife and kids a LOOOOOOONG way from the work area.
Spare sockets etc, to replace the ones you WILL throw at the dog.
That is ALL before 1A and 1B are even looked at.
When you fit that Sanden compact ompresssor, the 1A and 1B are the EASIEST to remove.
Have fun mate.
Cheers mate. I was thinking that Dizzy looks to be in the way...ill move it out the way tomorrow.Lol....sockets at the dog....i have three targets at the moment ha ha ha
Mate you reckon JAGDAIM will sell the plugs AND the leads or source the leads elsewhere?
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Trending Topics
#8
10-10-2016, 04:33 AM
Doug will have them if a one stop shop is what you want.
Repco, etc will have those plugs, STANDARD NGK stock in OZ, no big drama.
Contact Us | Performance Ignition Services
OK, Victoria, close to NSW in the big scheme of things.
Repco, etc will have those plugs, STANDARD NGK stock in OZ, no big drama.
Contact Us | Performance Ignition Services
OK, Victoria, close to NSW in the big scheme of things.
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#9
10-10-2016, 04:39 AM
Doug will have them if a one stop shop is what you want.
Repco, etc will have those plugs, STANDARD NGK stock in OZ, no big drama.
Contact Us | Performance Ignition Services
OK, Victoria, close to NSW in the big scheme of things.
Repco, etc will have those plugs, STANDARD NGK stock in OZ, no big drama.
Contact Us | Performance Ignition Services
OK, Victoria, close to NSW in the big scheme of things.
I sorted figured if JagDaim had them they would just sell them as a lead set correct?
Any over specs on the leads I should mention?
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#10
10-10-2016, 05:24 AM
Magnecor should have the specs for the HE engine set. They did when I got them, and lately when Peter in Vic got his for the S3 V12.
If not:
90deg at both ends of the coil lead
90deg for ALL the plug leads AT the cap end.
90deg for 1A 1B 6A 6B at the plug end.
Straight for the other 8 is fine.
I have a 90deg AT the 5B as well, and it just sits that lead nicely. That is NOT needed usually, but I am strange about some things.
Magnecor leads come with a number tag on the lead, so fitment is simple.
Give them a call, and if you feel they are drowning, move on.
TopGun make them, but there is NO stock Australia.
If not:
90deg at both ends of the coil lead
90deg for ALL the plug leads AT the cap end.
90deg for 1A 1B 6A 6B at the plug end.
Straight for the other 8 is fine.
I have a 90deg AT the 5B as well, and it just sits that lead nicely. That is NOT needed usually, but I am strange about some things.
Magnecor leads come with a number tag on the lead, so fitment is simple.
Give them a call, and if you feel they are drowning, move on.
TopGun make them, but there is NO stock Australia.
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#11
10-10-2016, 05:49 AM
Veteran Member
Paul, I have no cruise bellows either, and when I got leads made up, this is what I had made, in case you have to go to a supplier who does not know what is needed.
Rite of Passage, changing the plugs! Remember, just a very slight NIP to tighten, NO MORE, they are NOT washer-sealing plugs, but taper sealing. Once, a garage changed my plugs for me as I was too busy at work, and when I came to replace that set, two of them were actually less than even finger-tight in the threads. No untoward symptoms at all!
Also, while the dizzy cap is off, a drop of fully synthetic on the dizzy spindle and make sure it rotates 15 degrees or so and snaps back on its spring. Also, test the vac capsule holds vac and moves the dizzy innards. All part of the regular plug change routine.
Greg
Rite of Passage, changing the plugs! Remember, just a very slight NIP to tighten, NO MORE, they are NOT washer-sealing plugs, but taper sealing. Once, a garage changed my plugs for me as I was too busy at work, and when I came to replace that set, two of them were actually less than even finger-tight in the threads. No untoward symptoms at all!
Also, while the dizzy cap is off, a drop of fully synthetic on the dizzy spindle and make sure it rotates 15 degrees or so and snaps back on its spring. Also, test the vac capsule holds vac and moves the dizzy innards. All part of the regular plug change routine.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 10-10-2016 at 05:53 AM.
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#12
10-10-2016, 06:07 AM
Great reading and very timely information. Like Paulyling, I have an 85 HE, but this a private import XJSC- UK Spec.
Grant and Greg,- great hints- I may need to borrow a dog - or two, Have plenty of sockets to throw..
Cheers
Paul
XJ-SC 1985
107,000 Miles
Grant and Greg,- great hints- I may need to borrow a dog - or two, Have plenty of sockets to throw..
Cheers
Paul
XJ-SC 1985
107,000 Miles
Last edited by PaulRoper; 10-10-2016 at 06:59 AM. Reason: Signature
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#13
10-10-2016, 07:15 AM
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#15
10-10-2016, 08:38 AM
Veteran Member
Also, listen carefully when you are undoing the plugs. If you hear a little "cracking china" sound, the ceramic insulation has broken. Under these circumstances, blow out the well again as it may be small pieces of ceramic have broken off the plug. Then VERY carefully remove the plug, blowing out the well again before finally unscrewing the last few turns and removing it.
Greg
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#16
10-10-2016, 09:08 AM
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The sense of humor really helps
I think the best first step when doing anything on a V12 is resigning yourself to working slowly and methodically.....and enjoying the relaxed pace. Trying to work fast just ends up slowing you down....the car will fight you every inch of the way.
If you feel frustration coming on, stop work immediately. Take some time to remind yourself that there are no engineering flaws on old Jags. Anything that has the appearance of an engineering flaw, or that is causing you some problems, is simply "an interesting design feature"
Cheers
DD
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#18
10-10-2016, 08:29 PM
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#19
10-10-2016, 09:14 PM
Just rang Magnecor. A few options....Blue 8mm (squared) diameter ok? They also have 8.5mm in red but he says they were more for drag racers and such.
He is making up the 8mm for me and will call me back in a few days. Sounds like a goer! Price quoted between $120-$170. Cheers for the heads up Grant.
Just went shopping today and got my spark plugs and a few tools from Repco. Had to got to a fasteners place to get my anti seize.
Quick question: Setting the spark gap....is there any particular technique or tool to bend the electrode down? I just bought the feeler gauge and figured I could just bend it carefully with a screw driver or something.
Greg in France thanks for the heads up about cleaning around the thread and all before removal...thats a really good point....definitely don't want anything going down those chambers!
He is making up the 8mm for me and will call me back in a few days. Sounds like a goer! Price quoted between $120-$170. Cheers for the heads up Grant.
Just went shopping today and got my spark plugs and a few tools from Repco. Had to got to a fasteners place to get my anti seize.
Quick question: Setting the spark gap....is there any particular technique or tool to bend the electrode down? I just bought the feeler gauge and figured I could just bend it carefully with a screw driver or something.
Greg in France thanks for the heads up about cleaning around the thread and all before removal...thats a really good point....definitely don't want anything going down those chambers!
Last edited by paulyling; 10-10-2016 at 09:40 PM.
#20
10-10-2016, 09:20 PM
Senior Member
My $.02: I agree with what others said, take your time, walk away when you start to curse the Jaguar engineers. Blow out the debris around the plugs before breaking them loose. Take photos along the way to help in case you forget how something was routed or where it went!
I recall using a crow's foot socket on the throttle pedestal bolts, but no other specialty tools. Have an old towel or something ready to rest the compressor on when you move it forward a bit to access the front plugs.
Take the opportunity to clean up the surface of the Vee a bit.
I used Magnecor KV85, 8.5 mm wire set, part 1508. But this might just be the part number for Marelli ignition. Great fit and having the wires pre-marked is a nice touch. The set was about $130 US, a few years ago.
I recall using a crow's foot socket on the throttle pedestal bolts, but no other specialty tools. Have an old towel or something ready to rest the compressor on when you move it forward a bit to access the front plugs.
Take the opportunity to clean up the surface of the Vee a bit.
I used Magnecor KV85, 8.5 mm wire set, part 1508. But this might just be the part number for Marelli ignition. Great fit and having the wires pre-marked is a nice touch. The set was about $130 US, a few years ago.
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