Agreed.

Also when you refresh that engine oil, use Diesel Oil, 15W40, Standard Mineral will be just fine.

That oil has more detergent packages than Petrol oil, and NO harm will come to that engine, it is NOT aggressive at all. This will work its magic, and unclog the rings, and all other internals.

Run a heavy dose of injector cleaner, any brand, whatever is on special, in our 98 fuel.

Drive it like ya stole it is the only way.

I also agree with Greg, ALL that work needs sorting, no matter what, and if it dont come good, the R&R of the engine will be simple.

 

Paul,

I would not re-use the old injector loom connectors. I would cut the plug off and replace with a modern waterproof Automotive connector.

Like this - except I would use a 5way and 3way so you don't get them mixed up.
2x kits 4 Way Pin Waterproof Automotive/Marine Electrical Wire Connector kit | eBay

The best way to do this is to lash out and purchase a crimping tool like this rather than splicing injector connectors to the harness. It will make a neater job and there is less chance of problems with bad splices.
Ratcheting Crimping Tool for Open Uninsulated Terminals | eBay

If you do decide to splice I use these.
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-...inals/0533673/

 

Thanks Warren, Great advice again guys.
I was concerned about what sort of result splicing into a 31 year old plug/loom would give. Im sure NEW Jaguars wouldn't use connectors from 1985!

 

Warren
Those heatshrink connectors you mentioned. How do they work, and what do you do exactly? Slide the thing on one of the wires, twist the two stripped ends together, slide the join into the middle and then heatshrink, or what? Solder then joint first? What does the tin bit in the centre of the jojner actually do, please?


By the by, I do agree new loom connectors are a good idea, but in my case at least, I think reusing the OEM plugs can be actually a pretty good and durable option, as long as a good splice can be done, obviously, and the wires are still supple in that area.
Cheers
Thanks
Greg

 

Heh guys, as far as the Blue Goose is concerned, it looks like I might go down the path of making my own loom when I get back.....got a quote from Jag Daim which surprisingly stock them and it cost $660 for the loom before postage! Crikey! The guy on the phone also asked if my injectors were Cold Start injectors....does anybody know what the answer to that one would be?

Also on the topic of my Magnecor leads...I managed to "rough" them in to make sure they will all fit, even if the labels did not correspond to the plug it was going to...it all fits however one plug is different than all the others:

I have all right angled plugs connecting to the distributor however one has a straight plug different to all the others. (Labelled incorrectly in the photo as A1). At first I thought it might have been the coil plug (king lead), but I have one of those (see bottom pic) that will fit fine. Any idea if there is meant to be a sole straight plug going into the distributor?

Straight A1 Lead:


King Lead

 

Apart from cosmetics, it makes no difference, Paul. But when you have the coil and capstan tower reinstalled, straight up connectors in that area might make things easier to fit.


Your injectors are not cold start ones. This is the Bosch part number: BOSCH 0280150162
Greg

 

Yep,

Goose NO GOT cold start injectors.

Those leads are as Greg said, annoying, but will work, so they be at fault here.

 

Easy to use, just cut and strip the wires insert, crimp then heat. They are also cost effective and easy to use in confined spaces like under a dash. I also use an inexpensive crimping tool, like the ones you get with those eBay plastic crimps

These type of joiners have been used here in Aus for years by the Telco for repairing underground telephone copper wires. They are durable and weather proof.

Here is a copy of the install instructions.

 

Agreed Greg,

The crimp connection Warren suggested is described in this document

 

Cheers guys....sorry for the delay in response. Just out here now in the Indian Ocean 1000's of miles away from the Blue Goose. I guess a good time to step back and figure out what I need for when I return home next month so I can get stuck back into it.

I do have a another question: What gauge is the wire used for that injector harness? (mm2). Is there a standard colour code normally used for this harness as mine has alot of orange white and black thrown in the mix.

Also (without having the luxury of that harness in front of me) what is the general layout of those 8 wires going back to the multipin plug?

My good mate 34by151 seems to think most likely it is:
6 for injector positive, with both banks common
7th for bank 1 earth
8th for bank 2 earth

Thoughts?

In then end I will bring out the old harness into my shed and prepare the new one on a wooden board, labelling as I go, but just curious.

Cheers

 

Greg, what would you recommend I ask the supplier? If I say Bosch EV1 Injector Plug would that pretty much cover the correct connector type?

Grant did you mention that this plug is the same as some common Oz cars? Would it be as simple as a Repco part or a bit more exotic?

Guys thanks again for all the help.

 

I doubt Repco.

Any Auto Electician, and/or supplier would have them, and back when I did mine the VL Commodore was running Bosch injectors, and that 3ltr engine is the RB30 from the Skyline heritage.

Most Aussie EFI cars ran Bosch injectors, and the Jag was no different. It was just a matter of that cutout to clear the hose connection on ours, but that 2 pin plug is what is known in the industry as a "standad Bosch Injector plug", nothing special at all.

 

Cheers Grant, most appreciated mate.

So I am assuming some of the Standard Bosch Connectors don't have the cut out to clear the hose? I will definately ask about this if I order over the phone.

Also in regards to the wiring. I would like to keep the colour code standard. Does anybody know what colour Injector postive and negative is supposed to be?

Well...I guess the topic for this post was about changing the spark plugs, which are now done. Would the forum moderators like me to start a new thread on the Injector Harness or keep this one going you think?

 

Use GXL wire, this is what all the car makers use these days for engine bay wiring as the insulation is higher temperature rated.

Wire size, in this case bigger is better. I'd use 3mm which is rated at 15amps. US AWG 16, 26 x 0.3.

A board is a good way of making a harness, we did this to make the harness for marine radios years ago when we still made stuff in Australia.

Use the old harness lay it on the board and use nails where the bends are.

 

Cheers bud. Any recommendations in Oz for suppliers of GXL wire for automotive purposes? I don't suppose there is a one stop shop to include the Bosch connectors as well?

Also anybody know the correct colour codes for this injector harness? I might have to have a squiz in the HE supplement of my workshop manual when I get home from sea.

 

Paul,

I used 3mm trailer wire, in the 7 core stuff (gave me 7 colours), and I got hold of Wurth (German brand), and since I had already decided to install the new loom under the inlet manifold/s, and wrap it in Header Wrap, from the local Speed Shop. The heat quality was not in the brain, coz I reckoned the original lasted 13 years and was still pliable and working. That new loom is now still very pliable and I see no heat markings at all.

I kept it simple and cheap, money was TIGHT in those days, and the Daily Driver had to go on a Daily basis. Saturday night and Sundays was car day, that was it. Thats why I love the reliability of the XJ-S V12, after 16 years it never let me down.

This wiring schematics gives the colour codes and the connection sequence. You might need to enlarge it a tad depending on how good your eyes are.

V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf

 

Cheers Grant. That is a handy print to have. They basically common up 3 injectors positive's per wire, 4 times, so essentially only 4 wires going to the power resistors (via plug) but have 4 other wires commoned up at the plug going to the ECU. I guess using an 8 pin connector on mine was really only one way of achieving the same goal. This is starting to be alot clearer and gives me more confidence to wire up the new harness correctly Thank you again.

Yeah I guess If I can't get the colour code the same it is no biggy. Its just if I can get my hand on those colours I will try and make it the same.

Looking at that PDF the only colours I can work out is OW which I assume is orange white, OG to be orange and OS orange silver (?)

Does anybody know what KW, KU, KG, KS and KB are supposed to denote?

Google says these colours start with K:
List of colors starting by K | Wild Ones Wiki | Fandom powered by Wikia

 

Paul
I am not disputing your last post, just mentioning in case you think otherwise, that the injector loom plugs all the injector wires into the main loom at that big white plug. The power resistor also plugs into the main loom. The injector loom does not separate into two plugs in the engine bay, even though that may be happening elsewhere in the main loom structure, for all I know.
Greg

 

Cheers Greg. Yeah from memory that is how mine is configured also and Grant believes this hasn't been touched since Uncle Jaguar built it so I think it will be as you say.

Guys do you think I should create another post now that the topic has moved from Spark Plugs to injectors or is it ok to keep this thread going here?

 

You can get GXL wire from Bursons Auto Parts, at least I can in Warrnambool.

or on eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11-AUTOMO...MAAOSwZ8ZW3YZ8

Also get yourself a crimping tool and crimp the injector connectors directly to the new harness.