trick for installing ignition switch to lock cylinder
#1
#2
RE: trick for installing ignition switch to lock cylinder
are you talking about the actual switch on the back of the barrel,
if so then there are two screws as i recall, on opposite sides , these are very small and tricky to get out, it is however even harder to remove the barrel from the steering column, as there are shear head bolts to contend with to stop removal, i spent many hours with a punch and hammer to drive round the screw heads to replace mine
the main reason for replacing the ignition switch is the breaking off of the two prong fork that interlocks with the switch, this means the key turns but the switch on the back doesnt, so no start of the car , the bad news ( i hope not though ) for you is that your replacing the wrong part if this is the case, as its the actual metal key barrel assembly that is broken ( DAC 4151 ), basically , the two prong fork has failed/broken and will not turn a perfectly good switch . but even worse, this part only comes as a complete section along with new keys and an electrical switch already installed on the back,
it is however possible to by one from a scrapper and install it into your car
a picture of the whole assembly can be seen below ( i hope )
JEC site in the UK
hope this helps
BB
if so then there are two screws as i recall, on opposite sides , these are very small and tricky to get out, it is however even harder to remove the barrel from the steering column, as there are shear head bolts to contend with to stop removal, i spent many hours with a punch and hammer to drive round the screw heads to replace mine
the main reason for replacing the ignition switch is the breaking off of the two prong fork that interlocks with the switch, this means the key turns but the switch on the back doesnt, so no start of the car , the bad news ( i hope not though ) for you is that your replacing the wrong part if this is the case, as its the actual metal key barrel assembly that is broken ( DAC 4151 ), basically , the two prong fork has failed/broken and will not turn a perfectly good switch . but even worse, this part only comes as a complete section along with new keys and an electrical switch already installed on the back,
it is however possible to by one from a scrapper and install it into your car
a picture of the whole assembly can be seen below ( i hope )
JEC site in the UK
hope this helps
BB
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adenshillito (04-04-2021)
#3
RE: trick for installing ignition switch to lock cylinder
well what i have is a new ignition switch, and all the parts on the lock cylinder, and the ignition switch, are intact and work. i just cant find a way to install the 2 little screws that hold the ignition switch in the lock. any suggestions?
Thank you
Jeff
Thank you
Jeff
#6
Ignition Switch - Key Won't Turn
are you talking about the actual switch on the back of the barrel,
if so then there are two screws as i recall, on opposite sides , these are very small and tricky to get out, it is however even harder to remove the barrel from the steering column, as there are shear head bolts to contend with to stop removal, i spent many hours with a punch and hammer to drive round the screw heads to replace mine
the main reason for replacing the ignition switch is the breaking off of the two prong fork that interlocks with the switch, this means the key turns but the switch on the back doesnt, so no start of the car , the bad news ( i hope not though ) for you is that your replacing the wrong part if this is the case, as its the actual metal key barrel assembly that is broken ( DAC 4151 ), basically , the two prong fork has failed/broken and will not turn a perfectly good switch . but even worse, this part only comes as a complete section along with new keys and an electrical switch already installed on the back,
it is however possible to by one from a scrapper and install it into your car
a picture of the whole assembly can be seen below ( i hope )
JEC site in the UK
hope this helps
BB
if so then there are two screws as i recall, on opposite sides , these are very small and tricky to get out, it is however even harder to remove the barrel from the steering column, as there are shear head bolts to contend with to stop removal, i spent many hours with a punch and hammer to drive round the screw heads to replace mine
the main reason for replacing the ignition switch is the breaking off of the two prong fork that interlocks with the switch, this means the key turns but the switch on the back doesnt, so no start of the car , the bad news ( i hope not though ) for you is that your replacing the wrong part if this is the case, as its the actual metal key barrel assembly that is broken ( DAC 4151 ), basically , the two prong fork has failed/broken and will not turn a perfectly good switch . but even worse, this part only comes as a complete section along with new keys and an electrical switch already installed on the back,
it is however possible to by one from a scrapper and install it into your car
a picture of the whole assembly can be seen below ( i hope )
JEC site in the UK
hope this helps
BB
I've got the opposite problem. I put the key in the lock, but it won't turn. I tried wiggling the steering wheel and the shifter, but that didn't help. Replace the switch, or is there a fix?
#7
Greg
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I just replaced the ignition switch in my 83 XJ wuzza 6. I suspect the process is similar.
Some profess that installing the electric part to the mechanical part in situ is doable, I found it not so for me.
I removed the whole shebang for bench work.
The shear head screws are a place for ingenuity. I've read of several ways. One here.
I solved mine with a "wire nut". The taper on the inside fit the taper on the shear about as perfect as one could ask. I drilled a hole through the side of the nut. I inserted a small nail there as a lever. It did not take much of a twist to free the shear
nuts. The one in front easy. The one to the rear a bit more fiddly. But, it worked.
The entire assembly now out. Mine was in lousy condition, electricly and mechanicly. A NOS unit from David Boger and all so much better.
In the install, I used one shear nut with my new too. and an Allen head for the other. I'll take the chance of a thief taking all the shrouds off to disable the lock and hot wire the car...
Carl
Some profess that installing the electric part to the mechanical part in situ is doable, I found it not so for me.
I removed the whole shebang for bench work.
The shear head screws are a place for ingenuity. I've read of several ways. One here.
I solved mine with a "wire nut". The taper on the inside fit the taper on the shear about as perfect as one could ask. I drilled a hole through the side of the nut. I inserted a small nail there as a lever. It did not take much of a twist to free the shear
nuts. The one in front easy. The one to the rear a bit more fiddly. But, it worked.
The entire assembly now out. Mine was in lousy condition, electricly and mechanicly. A NOS unit from David Boger and all so much better.
In the install, I used one shear nut with my new too. and an Allen head for the other. I'll take the chance of a thief taking all the shrouds off to disable the lock and hot wire the car...
Carl
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