I have started making a head removal tool. Piece of steel cut to size, holes for the main head studs being drilled. But I need the position of the studs for the cam carrier with sufficient accuracy. Have anybody already made such a tool and thus have the measurements ready, or do I have to go the labourious way of measuring in three dimensions starting out with a gasket?

 

 

I have a full length head puller that I could rent out for 150$

 

Thanks but renting or buying is out based on tax and freight issues. Hence making my own. If you could measure the distances fro the centre of the holes along the edges to the centre of the holes in the middle (for the cam carrier studs) I would greatly appreciate it. (I.e. two different measures.)

 

Mish_Mish, what I seek is the exact measurements of the position of the holes for the cam carrier studs (the central rows in the video). I don't know if they are exactly in the middle of the head or not (the latter is more likely from just looking at it).

 

Me too, I need the exact dimensions of all the holes, both the studs and the cam bolt positions, so I can make one too. These things are as rare as hen's teeth, none of the clubs rent them out and nobody sells them this side of the Atlantic either. Found one in Aussieland but frieght ridiculous, and they said they would sell me a drawing, but never came through.

Greg

 

You mean ...

Engine Maintenance (continued)

Figure 4 has a simpler version and it is preceded by a discussion not involving a special tool.

 

Sort of, but I need a drawing of the entire thing not just a single puller acrosss the head, but one for the entire head.

Greg

 

Thanks, this is what I needed, I can get the rest from the engine in its current state + a new head gasket. Worst case I can make a complete drawing once I have the proof of the pudding. (I had missed out on that drawing in the book).

 

make 2 of these, they worked fine for me and you are likely to knacker a few cam bearing studs but there still available from jaguars

 

If the head isn't stuck too badly it will do nicely. But I would fear snapped studs and warped head if the head is completely "welded" to the head studs. Using a plate you divide the stress among all the cam house studs instead of just four. Less chance of snapping one or stripping the threads for cam housing studs in the cam house.

 

Totally unrelated, and DON"T try this at home, but several years ago a friend of mine had a problem removing a cylinder head from a flathead ford V8. Just simply would not budge. So under the advise of an old timer mechanic, he drained the coolant, removed all the nuts on the head, and fired up the engine, revving it to about 3000 rpm.

The head popped free under the force of several thousand psi of combustion pressure, escaped from the studs, dented the underside of the hood, and narrowly missed his dog! The old timer had neglected to mention leaving a couple of nuts loosely on a couple of studs!

 

All, tool completed and used successfully. Anybody want some photos and a Visio + pdf of the tool send me a PM with your email address. BTW, I made the tool with very close tolerances so if you havent got access to a mill/drill make the central row of holes fitting the camshaft clamp studs a bit larger.

 

Why not post some of the photos here? Maybe even the other files. Just use the advanced view, then the "manage attachements" link.

 

OK, here goes, a few comments to the drawing: Position the holes within a couple of tenths of a mm or make the holes bigger. The pdf is on several pages, each page with a slight overlap. I printed them out and taped them together, then used a steel ruler and a scriber to mark the 15mm steel plate. I used a centre punch of the hand held spring loaded type to mark each hole and did so three times for each marking. I started each hole with a 2mm centre drill.

The yellow dots are not in position. They are only a reminder that if you leave the steel plate long enough toward the front you have to drill holes for the studs at the chain cover. If you limit the outline to what the drawing shows you don't need them. I actually left it quite big but elected to remove the studs before pulling the head.

The central blue row of holes is for the cam clamp studs, 9 mm dia. Very tight, in fact the puller will only go down as far as the threaded part. The lilac holes are because banks A and B are slightly offset while the front bearings of the camshaft are in line.

The red dots are the holes for the bolts pushing on the inner row of studs holding down the head. You can drill with 8.5mm and tap to M10 thread. I didn't like the idea of the bolts turning on the ends of the studs so I drilled to 10.5mm and used a nut underneath the steel plate. I cut an M10 threaded rod to length and fitted a locknut (later on two and tightened) on top of each rod. I then used an open ended spanner and turned the nuts underneath half a turn each while holding the rod stationary in a torqueing pattern

 

Per,

Can you attach the original Visio file as well?

Thanks!!

 

Sorry, it will not upload Visio. But PM me with your email and I'll send it directly.

 

Per,

Please email the Visio file, PDF and whatever else I might need to make the Jaguar head puller described on the Jag Forum. My grandson and I are about to remove the heads on his 86 Jag XJS. your device looks perfect!

Thank you very much.

 

Welcome to the forum Gary,

The PDF is attached above but as you haven't posted an intro in the new members area or completed the probationary period you won't be able to download them.

 

Per, my email address is


Please send info re head puller tool

Many thanks,

Gary