my V12 runs 185F ,outside ambient 100F!

i installed a digital readout gage, sensor mounted on left side rear cylinder head!

factory gage always seemed wonky.

 

I run a aluminum rad, two elect fans, Lutz 1, no cats, 82 stats. I have two Auto Meter (AM) sensors, mounted on each stainless water rail, AM gauges in cabin, plus the barrel gauge. The results running in Florida summer (90's) : The barrel gauge reads @ the bottom of the N, the AM gauges in comparison are around 200F. ALL DEPENDING on traffic conditions. Stop & go 220F/ middle N. Moving, 190F/ well below N. So far noting above 220F on AM gauges. Car is a 91 5sp. Needless to say I do open the hood & stick a box fan in front after use, when possible. My next thoughts are an small elect water pump in the heater hose for heat soak purposes.

 

I remember that "middle of the N" was about 190ºF on my XJS versus 220ºF on yours. That's a 30ºF difference !

This illustrates that we can't be comfortable with the gauge readings until we determine what temperature that actually represents ...which varies from car to car.

Cheers
DD

 

I so agree with you Doug. I recently fitted some temp strips to various parts of the car:
Thermal Paint & Strips - Racetech


These are a cheap and really good way of seeing exactly what water and oil temps max out at. In my case I found that the water temp at the top hoses maxed at 85C and that max oil temps were also 85C at the filter, sump and cam inlet feeds. Cam cover max temps were only 5C higher, so that put a great many worries to rest!
But as we all know, looking at the gauge is powerful juju! So a little actual measurement does wonders for the anxiety factor.
Greg

 

Well, this is the comparison I get from the two Auto Meter (AM) gauges and the barrel gauge . Again, the AM sensors are bung welded 2" from the back joint in stainless tube, one for each bank. No variation in temp through out drive with either gauge in any temp's, many in the high 90F degrees through traffic.
My thoughts are the barrel gauge could be incorrect depending where the sensor temp is being taken.
Another question is if all three gauges are correct, what is the coolant temp in degrees when the barrel gauge is the middle of the "N" ? In conclusion, there is no way my barrel gauge is 190F in the middle of the N on my car. IF, big if that barrel temp is correct on my car the middle of the N is around 220F measuring coolant temp. inside the engine .

 

you do not need to heater hose it
there are MANY unused ports on the head that are blanked off...
I would go there... and a used Mercedes elect water pump from ebay.....


also
check coolant LEVEL...
a gallon down with the wizard it cools fine... but
the elect fan does not come on correctly
filled correctly the electric fan comes on much sooner (with the stock sensor/switch)


I have the Wizard rad. and everything else stock

 

When I bought my 92 XJS convertible the temp gauge was always below the center point. Turns out one thermostat was always open so I changed both thermostats, had the radiator "boiled" (that's what the guy said at the radiator shop here in NC) and had the fan replaced. The gauge now shows mid way between half and three quarters when up to temp. It's very stable there but I worry about if it's running too hot. Could it be I've had the wrong temperature thermostats installed or am I worried about nothing? With all my other vehicles the temp gauges is always centered when up to temp.

 

1) See post #63 and 64
The barrel gauges are flakey. You should determine what *actual* temp you are running and then see where the needle is on the gauge. "Mid way between half and three quarters' could be 190º, 200º, 210º...who knows?

Most of us use a hand-held infrared thermometer to get a rough idea of actual temperature but those temp strips sound good!

2) Did you properly bleed the cooling system?

Cheers
DD

 

I'll check it with an infrared thermometer. As a 92 it doesn't have the barrel gauges.

Slainte.

Stephen

 

I forgot !

Cheers
DD