My wife and I have owner two XJS'. The latest is our 92 Convertible which I really enjoy and want to keep it running well. The more I read about how critical maintenance is on these cars the more concerned I am about doing it properly.

I recently bought the XJ-S Repair Operational Manual which makes for great reading while the likes of Downton Abbey is on the tube. Let's not go there.

What I would like to know is what important (critical?) maintenance items I should be concentrating on. Back in the 60s and 70s I was into maintaining our Hillman, Humber, Vauxhall and Fords but the XJS is so much more complicated. So, if any XJS owner can help me prioritize my maintenance I'd really appreciate it.

The work done so far includes; rebuilding the differential, removing and cleaning the radiator, replacing both thermostats, replacing the electric fan, new shocks on the front, all new rotors and pads, new OEM antenna, new air filters, new tires, oil change (Castrol 20W-50) and filter. I am sure there are other bits and pieces done but I cant remember. I'm a fan of the "What have you bought for your XJS today". For me my "Today" purchase was a new washer reservoir cap at $18.95. It's always something.

The only thing that doesn't work is the A/C. That's a job for next spring.

Thanks in advance.

Stephen in western NC. Ah! The cool of the mountains.

 

A few random ideas:

• Regular rear axle greasing, there are 10 grease nipples
• Change brake flexibles if not already done
• change all water hoses if not already done
• clean up and protectively grease all the ground (earth) points you can find
• anti-rust treatment. Best to remove the rear seats and side trim to tackle the rear half of the car and get access to the inner sill behind the doors and the panels under the rear side windows. Spray treatments into all bodywork cavities, under rear seats, up inside the rear buttress/rear wheelarch gap, inside the sills (drill access holes and plug with blind grommets afterwards), engine bay top chassis rail, windscreen wiper cavity, etc. If you find any surface rust use a product like AquaSteel and wax over that when dry.
• Inside floorpan: take out carpets and underfelt felt, dry out and treat the floorpan with PoR15 or Rust Bullet-type products. Floorpans tend to rust from the inside outwards, as the under carpet felt never really dries out the moisture from wet feet etc. These epoxy type products effectively protect the metal from damp.
• paint exterior floorpan surface with chassis anti rust and stone chip stuff
• remove front wheelarch baffles and treat for rust in the cavities revealed
• Extra engine earth strap directly from one of the alternator bracket to engine fixing bolts directly to the chassis rail
• Change gearbox ATF and filter
• Regular spark plug dizzy cap and rotor changes.
• Carefully check all engine bay looms for cracking, brittleness. Make/buy new ones where you find it.

Always a job on the XJS...
Greg

 

Many thanks Greg. Just what I needed. I've looked at the hose kits and read how awkward it is to get them in. but I know I should do it. Greasing too will be done.

Thanks again.

Stephen

 

A couple more points to add where I think you should add cavity wax; this is just my thoughts from poking round my XJS since getting it 6 months ago:

Front sills - these can be accessed through a cutout from inside the car, behind the interior trim lower side panels. This pic is taken from near the lower LHS door hinge, looking forward:
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Jacking points - Drill/inject/plug as Greg says. Picture for reference on this page if you scroll down:
KWE Winter Package - XJS & XJ from KWE Cars

Front box section behind pedals - I'm not sure if this is the same void as the front jacking point, but you could drill a hole in the cabin to find out & easily plug up.

Rear seats - there is a small void underneath them, & on my car it is stuffed with yellow foam. It's accessible from the 4 grommets on the rear seat pan (2 visible in this pic):

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The grommets used by Jaguar in these holes are that awful metal type - remove them & install 25mm rubber grommets sealed with silicone in their place. This is necessary as any water which leaks from the rear windows will end up sitting on this area under the rear seat, & if it seeps through those grommets it will soak the foam.

For cavity injection on other cars I used this stuff. Easy to use, no compressor needed, & comes with an injection wand/lance:
Dynax S50 | High Protection Rust Proofing Cavity Wax - Bilt Hamber